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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanted to take this opportunity to give back to the community and provide some tricks on Replacing the lower control arm bushings with PolyBushes on a RRS (same procedure for an LR3). I just did them over the weekend and there are a few ways to make the job much easier, but aren’t shown in the videos available on the subject.

Tip 1: Use a receprocating saw with a short blade for cutting heavy metal to cut out the control arm bolts. All you need to do is cut between the mounting tabs and the control arm and it’ll cut right through the bolt. No fighting to remove them at all. See pic 1.

Tip 2: Use a drill to cut apart the bushings, but then use a flat tip screwdriver to tear the remaining bushing apart. No matter how many times I drilled the bushing at the rear of the arm, I couldn’t hammer it out. Using a screwdriver to tear it up after drilling it a lot did the trick. Better way would be to just burn them out with a torch. The drill/screwdriver/hammer method is a pain and takes a while.

Tip 3: Use a reciprocating saw to initiate the cut into the outer bushing sleeve, but use a chisel and hammer to get under it and drive it out. This ensures that you don’t cut too far into the sleeve and damage the control arm.

Tip 4: Before mounting the control arm, use a heavy hammer to bend the mounting tabs on the chassis out a bit. Without that, I’d never be able to fit the control arm with polybushes in. Once the arm is mounted and the bolts are in, use a hammer to bend the tabs back in place. This makes figment MUCH easier!

Tip 5: Lining up the bolt holes in the control arm to the mounting tabs: Use a hammer to hit the control arm in the right direction to line up the mounting holes. Then use tool called a ‘lady finger’ to line them up perfectly for the bolts. It has a pointed end that you push into the mounting holes and will center the control arm bolt holes on the mounting tab.

Tip 6: Mount the LCA into the brackets before dropping the ball joint into the knuckle. You’ll need to disconnect the knuckle from the UCA to get the knuckle to move enough to get the ball joint into its mounting hole. Be sure to drive the CV joint completely in before this.

Tip 7: Lining up the strut mount with the LCA: I had a lot of trouble lining up the strut bolt hole in the strut with the one in the LCA. The bolt has a pretty tight tolerance with the strut, so they need to be lined up perfectly to fit, which is difficult because the strut didn’t like to move much and the LCA is difficult. The method that worked for me was:
1) insert the lady finger into the strut/LCA bolt hole in the opposite direction that the strut bolt will go. Push all the way through. This will line the strut/LCA holes.
2) Use a pointed chisel that has about the same diameter as the bolt and push it through the bolt hole in the same direction that the strut bolt will go, thus pushing the lady finger out the back. Pointed end goes in first. This means the wider end will be holding the strut/LCA in place when the bolt is pressed through and have them lined up perfectly.
3) Push the mounting bolt through the front, thus pushing the chisel out the back. Boom, difficult job made easy.

Tip 8: HAVE A CHISEL SET! I have a cheap Harbor Freight one and it was a life saver.

Tip 9: Don’t worry about tightening the control arm mounting bolts with the hub at a certain height, like some videos say. When you do an alignment afterwards, they’ll do it.

I hope that helps some of you guys. I was fortunate enough to have a lift and it took 8 hours. Godspeed to those of you attempting it on jack stands.


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