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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1

I have replaced 20190411_194823.jpg the camshaft position sensor but I am still getting this code, it is the only code shown after diagnostics, car runs fine except that sometimes the idle is too low it stays on the first line after 0, this is with A/C off with A/C it goes a bit higher to almost normal idle.

has anyone experienced this before or might provide an insight on this issue
One more thing, is it possible to replace the BCU without any programming? I have a replacement BCU from a similar car and is there a way to fix the lcd? because sometimes the pixels come back to life
4.4 v8 petrol 2004 vogue with 230,000km
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Lately I've been having similar idle as well on my 04 but with no trouble codes. Drives fine otherwise. Curious to know what would cause that too. No, the BCU has to be recoded to your vehicle. I have a Faultmate MSV2 that I used to copy the values off my old BCU then uploaded those into my new used BCU. The pixels can be fixed. I heard of a few vendors on ebay who specialize in repairing them for cheap.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Random Low idle conditions are frequently caused by dirty throttle body plates, and plugged EGR ports on the rear side of the throttle blade. Open the throttle plate up, soak it with throttlebody cleaner (Use the proper stuff) and brush or use a lint free rag to clean as much carbon as you can find off the blade itself and the areas on both side of the blade. My old 4.6L Cadillac northstar would do this occasionally and when it happene you would swear the engine was going to stall at stop signs and traffic lights, my 06 4.4L RR has not been dirty enough yet.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #4
Lately I've been having similar idle as well on my 04 but with no trouble codes. Drives fine otherwise. Curious to know what would cause that too. No, the BCU has to be recoded to your vehicle. I have a Faultmate MSV2 that I used to copy the values off my old BCU then uploaded those into my new used BCU. The pixels can be fixed. I heard of a few vendors on ebay who specialize in repairing them for cheap.
I have replaced my bcu with a used one without any coding and nothing changed everything was working the same way as the original bcu in the car, so i am guessing my bcu is fine, the hdc inactive and air susp inactive may be due to an alignment issue
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #5
Random Low idle conditions are frequently caused by dirty throttle body plates, and plugged EGR ports on the rear side of the throttle blade. Open the throttle plate up, soak it with throttlebody cleaner (Use the proper stuff) and brush or use a lint free rag to clean as much carbon as you can find off the blade itself and the areas on both side of the blade. My old 4.6L Cadillac northstar would do this occasionally and when it happene you would swear the engine was going to stall at stop signs and traffic lights, my 06 4.4L RR has not been dirty enough yet.
I was having stalling issues before, the car would lose revs until it shutdown and starting it again was a problem, every time I stopped somewhere or I am stationary for a while the car would stall so I replaced the throttle body with a used one because getting new parts here is not easy and it is very expensive, after replacing it the problem went away but now I am seeing similar symptoms again, last night when I was driving it stalled on me three times starting it again took a long time, is it possible that this throttle body could be bad as well? or is it something else? it is really stressing me out and diagnostics don't show any problem except for the p0011 code
 

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Starting with the basics, I would clean the throttle body, including the blade and ports, and I would also check for a defective PCV valve. The PCV valve is a calibrated vacuum leak, allowing a preset amount of air into the engine. If plugged, the reduced airflow can cause low idle, idle fluctuation, stalling and hard restarting. I recommend replacement rather than cleaning, especially if the engine has more than 60,000 miles. It is relatively cheap, and has fixed its share of idle speed and quality issues for me. Be sure to use the correct part, as the wrong part number can cause its share of issues as well. The Poo11 cade could be the result of a cam position fault. This exhaust cam is used nowadays to control EGR, instead of a valve. The outcome, however, is the same: erratic and slow idle and stalling. Has the oil been changed religiously, and high quality oil been used? This issue can cause the cam control solenoid to stick, causing the exhaust cam to stick. Ray
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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From his other post

https://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-rover-mark-iii-l322/334682-cleaning-vanos-solenoids.html

Seems like the PO ran for beyond an extended time on the oil and oil filter, and now theres a possiblilty that the ports to the Vanos units and tensioners may be pretty well resticted with gunk. Seems like some kind of oil flush is going to be needed to try and clean out the internal passages of the engine, and if that doesn't work may need to go into some partial disassembly and small brushes to clean everything up.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #8
From his other post

https://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-rover-mark-iii-l322/334682-cleaning-vanos-solenoids.html

Seems like the PO ran for beyond an extended time on the oil and oil filter, and now theres a possibility that the ports to the Vanos units and tensioners may be pretty well resticted with gunk. Seems like some kind of oil flush is going to be needed to try and clean out the internal passages of the engine, and if that doesn't work may need to go into some partial disassembly and small brushes to clean everything up.
as you point this out, I have a feeling something is plugged in the engine, I bought this car from a guy who apparently could not take care of it, the day I went to do engine oil change and filter change the filter was non existent it was all disintegrated it was just a mix of oil porridge I would say, so I removed the gunk where a quarter of the oil filter was and replaced the black heavy oil with new high quality oil, it has gone 3000km already so next week I am going to change the filter and oil again, this scares me when I think of the transmission now, I will be replacing that oil as well, it is this annoying stalling and low revs that is really bothering me, apart from that everything is good, the chain and guides are ok I checked when I replaced the top oil cover gaskets, the chains are not lose and the guide is a solid one piece

I am guessing the solenoids can not be cleaned? I haven't had any response so far
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I'm not aware of the local automotive resources in Tanzania but before you go the full "expensive" oil route I'm guessing that ATF is readily available....

Add a quart/litre of regular auto transmission fluid (red type ATF) via the engine oil filler cap now and use your car for a couple of hundred Kms. Then perform your next engine oil and filter change. Adding ATF will help scavenge out some of the internal crud in your engine.

The ATF will not damage your engine when used for a couple of hundred miles (or approx three hundred and twenty Kms). It appears you may have inherited the long term harm extended oil changes seem to have on many previously owned LR vehicles.

Use regular inexpensive oil next time too but also use a quart/litre of ATF as a substitute for a quart/litre of engine oil, along with a new filter, and repeat the exercise in another 200-300kms.

If the oil still drains out in a pitch black state, that's not necessarily a bad thing as it indicates that the contaminants are being progressively scavenged by the engine oil/atf combination.

Once you get to the "slightly dirty oil state" after a couple of hundred Kms or so, you're making progress.

Eventually you will have dislodged whatever may be accessed through the oil drain plug and then it will be time to try the good stuff - otherwise, in the interim, you're just throwing good money down the [oil] drain.

Adding ATF to the motor in advance of an engine oil change will continue to help flush your internal oil galleries and performance components dependent on an oil pressure source/activation.

Rob
 

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Meant to add....

Even if the flushing doesn't improve the present mechanical state of the Vanos units, at least you will have dislodged and drained as much of the crud as possible in advance of any repair/replacement needed to the Vanos units.

No point almost immediately plugging up the "new" ones by leaving everything else as is.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Meant to add....

Even if the flushing doesn't improve the present mechanical state of the Vanos units, at least you will have dislodged and drained as much of the crud as possible in advance of any repair/replacement needed to the Vanos units.

No point almost immediately plugging up the "new" ones by leaving everything else as is.

Rob
thank you for the advice, I will definitely try and do the flushing however today I swapped the two sensors, the camshaft position sensors But I am still getting the same code p0011 is there another sensor related to this code or might the timing be off on bank1?
 
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