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Discussion starter · #43 ·
Really? What did the software address? Do you know the software version in case I need it also?
Thanks
Hi. The dealer had computer issues as I was leaving hence I did not get the invoice yet to see what software they did.

this was basically verbally told to me my the service adviser.

I did speak to the shop foreman. A very knowledgeable guy and he said in extreme hot weather all the oil goes down in the sump and takes a few seconds to get up to the block on starting.

the car was parked outside last night and today I went there to start it and there was only there for a second and not very loud.

we are getting cold weather at nights in Toronto now.

not sure if it is the software or the oil being really thin in extreme heat and just falling into the sump.

will keep you posted
 
I read a article last night. The problem you have sounds like a timing belt tensioner or timing chain is on its way out. Im getting close to 100k and wondering about my timing issues starting to show up.



Common symptoms
A worn tensioner will give the timing chain too much slack, and this may lead to a slapping noise, especially when first starting the engine.
A worn tensioner may also cause the check engine light to come on, and the engine may run rough, hesitate or stall.
Common misdiagnoses
The sound of timing chain slap is similar to a tapping lifter at startup, so many times they are not replaced because the sound goes away after a few moments.
 
I read a article last night. The problem you have sounds like a timing belt tensioner or timing chain is on its way out. Im getting close to 100k and wondering about my timing issues starting to show up.



Common symptoms
A worn tensioner will give the timing chain too much slack, and this may lead to a slapping noise, especially when first starting the engine.
A worn tensioner may also cause the check engine light to come on, and the engine may run rough, hesitate or stall.
Common misdiagnoses
The sound of timing chain slap is similar to a tapping lifter at startup, so many times they are not replaced because the sound goes away after a few moments.
That was my initial thought as well but the diesel has timing belts, not chains so can't see them making a rattling sound.
 
The sound upon a cold start up is the time time it takes for the oil pressure to build up enough for your Variable Valve Timing piston/Actuators to have enough pressure to act upon the timing belt guide/arms as to effectively and correctly time the engine. Change the oil and filter to JLR's spec and make sure you have a full sump... I think the Diesel takes 6 quarts but follow the manual to a "T"...

My "AJ-V8" started doing this last week for about a second upon start-up. I'm very sensitive to that sound as the original engine (2nd Owner Here) would do that for 2-3 seconds every cold start-up until the #5 Rod Bearing Spun, Crank Shaft was ruined, and the Piston Rod-Arm broke and the whole engine had to be replaced...

So I wrote a note to immediately check the oil level before the next (Cold-Start-Up)... I did and she was (2) clicks low from the Dashboard/Instrument Panel's Maximum Sump level of 8 quarts... So before I started her up I immediately put in 1/2 a quart of Castrol 0W-20 Professional I had left over from the last oil change I performed 3K miles ago. All engines burn oil even brand new ones... Afterwards, I started her up in my garage with the windows down as to hear any chain guide rattle upon this start up using the walls for reverberation/listening amplification. The Noise was immediately gone just as she was quite upon start-up for the last 8 months on the new "AJ-V8" and the sump now reads Maximum Level before every Cold Start-Up... I've started her up 10-12 times from a ColD-Start since I added the 1/2 Quart to make full-sump-level. She hasn't had that dreaded sound not even for a quarter second ever since. That is just how sensitive these engines are to requiring full oil pressure build-up upon start up for proper timing. Without maximum oil pressure you are starting your engines "untimed" until those Actuators press on those Chain/Belt Guide Arms and correcting the timing. Do it long enough and you need a new engine like I did because a previous owner let this happen and I too thought that sound upon start-up was in fact, "Normal." Well, it isn't...

All modern VVT engines are heavily dependent upon having a full oil sump level and a clean oil at that for those Actuator/Pistons to have maximum pressure build up upon start up to time the engine correctly immediately upon ignition. This comes from JLR North Atlanta's Master Mechanic that replaced my first engine and the Shop Foreman. Both have combined 30+ years working exclusively at Rover and between them.

An oil change cost me $150 and 20 minutes of my time from start to finish and is the easiest vehicle I've ever changed oil upon with the 90mm filter wrench and a 10Liter Sump Drain Pump. Both can be sourced on Amazon for about $130 for a quality Sump Drain and Oil Filter Wrench made of Billet Aluminum. 8 quarts of Castrol Professional 0W-20 and an OEM Filter from the dealer for the aforementioned $150. I suggest doing the oil change yourself and switching to the 0w-20 Castrol Professional... and checking that sump level weekly to keep it full and 6K mile change intervals to keep the oil clean.

I hope this helps you BangBang...
 
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Discussion starter · #51 ·
The sound upon a cold start up is the time time it takes for the oil pressure to build up enough for your Variable Valve Timing piston/Actuators to have enough pressure to act upon the timing belt guide/arms as to effectively and correctly time the engine. Change the oil and filter to JLR's spec and make sure you have a full sump... I think the Diesel takes 6 quarts but follow the manual to a "T"...

My "AJ-V8" started doing this last week for about a second upon start-up. I'm very sensitive to that sound as the original engine (2nd Owner Here) would do that for 2-3 seconds every cold start-up until the #5 Rod Bearing Spun, Crank Shaft was ruined, and the Piston Rod-Arm broke and the whole engine had to be replaced...

So I wrote a note to immediately check the oil level before the next (Cold-Start-Up)... I did and she was (2) clicks low from the Dashboard/Instrument Panel's Maximum Sump level of 8 quarts... So before I started her up I immediately put in 1/2 a quart of Castrol 0W-20 Professional I had left over from the last oil change I performed 3K miles ago. All engines burn oil even brand new ones... Afterwards, I started her up in my garage with the windows down as to hear any chain guide rattle upon this start up using the walls for reverberation/listening amplification. The Noise was immediately gone just as she was quite upon start-up for the last 8 months on the new "AJ-V8" and the sump now reads Maximum Level before every Cold Start-Up... I've started her up 10-12 times from a ColD-Start since I added the 1/2 Quart to make full-sump-level. She hasn't had that dreaded sound not even for a quarter second ever since. That is just how sensitive these engines are to requiring full oil pressure build-up upon start up for proper timing. Without maximum oil pressure you are starting your engines "untimed" until those Actuators press on those Chain/Belt Guide Arms and correcting the timing. Do it long enough and you need a new engine like I did because a previous owner let this happen and I too thought that sound upon start-up was in fact, "Normal." Well, it isn't...

All modern VVT engines are heavily dependent upon having a full oil sump level and a clean oil at that for those Actuator/Pistons to have maximum pressure build up upon start up to time the engine correctly immediately upon ignition. This comes from JLR North Atlanta's Master Mechanic that replaced my first engine and the Shop Foreman. Both have combined 30+ years working exclusively at Rover and between them.

An oil change cost me $150 and 20 minutes of my time from start to finish and is the easiest vehicle I've ever changed oil upon with the 90mm filter wrench and a 10Liter Sump Drain Pump. Both can be sourced on Amazon for about $130 for a quality Sump Drain and Oil Filter Wrench made of Billet Aluminum. 8 quarts of Castrol Professional 0W-20 and an OEM Filter from the dealer for the aforementioned $150. I suggest doing the oil change yourself and switching to the 0w-20 Castrol Professional... and checking that sump level weekly to keep it full and 6K mile change intervals to keep the oil clean.

I hope this helps you BangBang...
Hi. The oil was changed 3000 kms ago with proper oil and filter from dealer.

not takes 6 liters in the diesel and oil level is ok.

it has to be something else , nobody knows what it is.
 
But it goes away after 5-6 seconds? That sounds exactly my my first engine that blew after 57 days of owing her and started again on my 2nd one, once it burned a half a quart of oil until I topped her off again.

You say the V6 Diesel doesn't have a Timing "Chain" but rather has a Timing "Belt"... as in made of rubber or synthetic? Toyota does that and was the reason I wouldn't let my wife buy another 4Runner or any other "Japanese" vehicle that does stupid s#it like that. A timing chain should last the life of the vehicle and NOT be designed as a wearable item that needs changing every 75K miles or so. I don't know if this is the case with your Rover or not... I hope not as I'd like to think they would not do what Toyota does in that regard. The sound you are hearing doesn't have to be timing chain, or chain guide arm "Slap"... It could be the valves hitting the top of your pistons too. I had all 3 aforementioned going on and the engine tear down showed just that when I went to JLR North Atlanta to meet with the Master Mechanic and Shop Foreman when the warranty companies "Independent Inspector" was looking at my engine to decide whether "Easy Care" was going to pay for it or not.

I hope you get it resolved. I believe I listened to your sound byte/video a week or two ago. If it's the one I'm thinking of it's the same sound mine was doing upon start-up for the first 3-4 seconds upon cold start up... until it blew.

I can say this with certainty... The difference between the Talent and willingness to Help & be Useful in the service department personnel can be night and day difference between different dealerships even owned by the same family name. I wouldn't let JLR Gwinnett's service department put air in my tires they are so worthless and devoid of any quality mechanics, techs, and work ethic. JLR North Altanta can perform a complete engine tear down, swap, and a full QA/QC turnaround time in 3 days, and did for me.

I'm rooting for you buddy and God Bless!
 
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Hi, same issue here with a 2015 3.0D L494 with 70,000 miles I’m planning to buy.

The seller says that this vehicle is Cambelt driven and not Chain driven and that it was replaced at 65,000 miles.

The seller seems a very genuine man and and also said that the noise I refer to is the oil going to the top of the engine and is nothing to worry about and that they have sold many of the 3.0 engines and this noise is something they have all made upon startup it will only be cause for concern if the noise persisted throughout while engine running.

I would love to have a second opinion before committing to buy it.

Many thanks in advance,
 
I have the older 2011 TDV6 3.0 and it made the noise when I bought it used. I replaced the oil pump and the amount of time it makes the noise was greatly reduced. I have a feeling replacing the oil cooler may also reduce/eliminate it since it has an oil back flow stop in it.

It’s definitely a concerning noise, but all of the 3.0 diesels I’ve encountered make it, some much longer than others.

I started with changing the oil pump (a lot of work). In hindsight I’d start with the oil cooler since it’s not as labor intense to do. I’ll be changing mine sometime later this year.
 
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