Lots of Faults and its Not the Battery

You should post your year vehicle.
I recently put in a new battery and it wasn’t holding a charge properly. I had the store where I purchased it check. They replaced it with a new one. Just making the point that just because it’s new doesn’t necessarily mean it’s in proper condition. Follow the sticky at the top of the forum to assess your system, including your alternator.

Put the year, and what model "reader" you're using.

Martin

You have at least a throttle position "A" sensor short to power code P-0121) and the rest are Can bus errors indicating a loss of communication with the various modules. Did anyone work on it immediately prior to these codes appearing?

2008 Range Rover HSE

I am using an Iland code reader from 2018 bought from British Atlantic

MARK_C said:

You have at least a throttle position "A" sensor short to power code P-0121) and the rest are Can bus errors indicating a loss of communication with the various modules. Did anyone work on it immediately prior to these codes appearing?

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Nope. I just started the car up in a parking lot and drove about 20 yards and then things went crazy. The codes above have been cleared and just come back. I am going to pull the tps sensor and bench test it.

My first thought was the battery crapped the bed, but a new battery didn't resolve it. LCM and PAM also each have faults.

So it seems like I have two issues. The TPS which makes sense because the rover is missing and running like crap. Secondly, there is an issue with modules communicating so maybe a break in a wire or something? Could it be a brake light switch? What about an abs sensor? Those are the other two things that I have read about that could cause the xmas lights on the dash. I also have hdc fault, engine fault, transmission fault limited gears. These are the codes associated with these issues correct?

Thats why I asked if anything had been done, maybe some connector got unplugged and only halfway reconnected, or it was partially connected but not locked and just came apart when these codes popped up.

ABS problems, and this includes loss of any of the 4 wheel speed sensors, usually involves the shutdown of the ABS and HDC and traction control systems and the suspension system will not change height and the message center will have a message that says vehicle lowering as you start driving off accompanied with a couple of dings from the warning chime in the dash. It never reaches access height, but the lights on the manual EAS control knob all go out and the knob does nothing. The PAM can probably be ignored for this issue. I've only had speed sensor problems in mine and never got a transmission faulted message along with the 3 amigos (ABS, HDC and traction control) along with no speedometer or odometer.

I think I will start with the TPS. Does anyone know how to test the TPS? The manual really doesn't touch on it .

Also, I checked the voltages and the battery is good and I am getting 13.8 from the alternator.

MARK_C said:

Thats why I asked if anything had been done, maybe some connector got unplugged and only halfway reconnected, or it was partially connected but not locked and just came apart when these codes popped up.

ABS problems, and this includes loss of any of the 4 wheel speed sensors, usually involves the shutdown of the ABS and HDC and traction control systems and the suspension system will not change height and the message center will have a message that says vehicle lowering as you start driving off accompanied with a couple of dings from the warning chime in the dash. It never reaches access height, but the lights on the manual EAS control knob all go out and the knob does nothing. The PAM can probably be ignored for this issue. I've only had speed sensor problems in mine and never got a transmission faulted message along with the 3 amigos (ABS, HDC and traction control) along with no speedometer or odometer.

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Did you ever figure it out? I have the same thing

Maxi1211 said:

I am having the same issue with my 2011 Range Rover Sport. Battery was just replaced with a AGM battery and tested. Have no communication codes with the following modules

CAN
ABS
Transmission Control Module
Steering Angle Sensor Module
Transfer Case Module
Instrument Cluster Module
Parking Brake Control Module
Restrain Control Module
All Terrain Control Module
Speed Control Switch
Brake Pedal Position Sensor
Speed Sensor A
BCM
ECM

Car still start and drives but the gears sometimes get stuck in 3rd and sometimes drives good. It only has 87K miles.

Please help

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Couple of things. Did you try clearing codes and seeing if they return? Also when the battery was replaced was the car coded to the proper size and type of battery?

kczach said:

Couple of things. Did you try clearing codes and seeing if they return? Also when the battery was replaced was the car coded to the proper size and type of battery?

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Thank you for your response.

Yes, I cleared the codes and keep coming right back. Now the CEL and a few other lights are not even going off after I cleared them with my scanner.

I register the battery so I don’t think the issue is there.

packetstorm said:

I have one fault in the ECM, one fault in the TCM, four faults in the ATCM, one fault in the PBM, eight faults in the LCM, and 16 faults in the PAM.

ECM Fault is P0121-00

TCM Fault is U2023-86

ATCM Faults are as follows U0403-94, U0416-94, U0402-94, U0401-94.

PBM Fault is U0401-00

Truck was fine, then all of a sudden a bunch of dings and fault messages occurred.

I replaced the battery because it was 3 years old and voltage was a little weird.

I try and reset the codes with my reader and they keep coming back.

Any help is appreciated.

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Alternator ..... Period. Check cables on starter and up to battery , check connectors and ford put in a fuseable it corodes..and that causes resistance to go up causeing the alternator to whine.because it's working harder get the right battery no walmart no oreilys
Napa and BMW and rangerover only...
I promise you it's simple if you have a watercooled alternator corrosion can cause problems gotta get dirty and stick your hands up by starter and check those cables there was a factory bulletin when I worked as a Ford svr.technician for landrover .just remember voltage drops starve the ecm and those other codes are like O2 failures they upset everything else .is your voltage at alternator powerprobe three it. Ground on alternator frame and probe positive stud 14.3 14.8 volts then go to battery positive and ground to alternator bracket if there is a good ground it will show same if there is a bad ground wire to frame it will be less and that is the start of your chargeing problem