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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Story:
bought a cheap DSE MY 00/01 with only one key. Engine should be running, but injectors were removed (but available) missing the MAF sensor, HEVAC and the RF door is schut tight in superlock. The car has been standing for about a year with the battery connected... ergo...battery has died.


I have tried to charge the battery, no luck, so now a second battery with jumpercables connected as that one has the poles in the normal way , wich is the wrong way to fit in a landrover...

Fitted the injectors today (MAF not needed to test-run the engine, works as well without MAF) and wanted to start the engine....

since the fob had dead batteries too, I tried to enter the EKA.... no luck, but perhaps i started wrong. So took the book out of the glovebox and read how to enter the code, did it once again, no luck..

tried to start.... immobilised, press fob it said in the display... so took some new batteries, fittet them in the fob and tried again, pressed the fob-buttons... still said "immobilised, press fob"

is this an sync issue between engine and becm
is this an EKA issue (and how to find out where it goes wrong (lock, communicationlines, BECM??)
is it a FOB issue... and what are the options to get a new fob without spending lots of money...

It is not the way I would do with any decent P38...... but this is my OFFroad playtoy car,bought it for 800 euro and it will only be used to play in the dirt, never on the open roads......Anything that doesn't have to cost lots of money, I prefer it doesn't... so if anyone knows a cheap effective solution, even if it is a way around the immobiliser and whole FOB usage...... I'd be glad to learn about it (per PB is OK too)
 

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Banned
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
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3,952 Posts
Have you synced the fob to the car now it has good batteries in it? EKA does what the name suggests, Emergency Key Access, it gets you into the car, it doesn't turn the immobiliser off, you need the fob to do that.

Immobilised Press Fob only works when you have unloocked the car with the fob and not started it within 60 seconds so it has passively immobilised itself. For that to wrk it has to be synced.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
can't get the remote to sync at the door, neither at the ignitionlock.... led lights when buttons pressed..

by the way...the dutch manual actualy tells you that with the EKA you can get in your car and start it if your FOB isn't working
 

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Banned
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
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3,952 Posts
When you press and hold a button on the fob does it flash fairly slowly and then change to a faster flashing? If it does, it's working properly. You can't sync it in the ignition, you have to do it in the door. With the door closed, put the key in the lock and turn to the lock position, holding it in the lock position press and hold the lock button on the fob until it flashes quickly. Release the button on the fob and then turn to the centre. Then turn to the unlock position, hold there and press and hold the unlock button until it flashes quickly, release the button on the fob then turn the key back to centre. It should now be synced.

If, when you press a button on the fob the LED comes on steady rather than flashing, you won't be able to sync it. Equally, if you have a duff microswitch in the latch, then the BeCM won't know you are turning the key in the lock so it won't sync and that would also explain why it won't accept the EKA (assuming you have the correct EKA for the car).
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the car came with a card with the code writen on it (the thick paper card with the green border, like I've seen it several times) one side the radio code is writen on it, the other side the EKA.
There are allso two or three emails from an independant asking a dealer for the code and the answer from the dealer with the samen code.... is assume this is the correct code.

Yes, slow flash and afer a second or two more rapid flashing. How to sync in the door, i know. Done that many many times..
Read somewhere that that doesn't work, or at least isn't necessary, anymore from MY01 -> and since this one is from 01, and thus might be a MY 01 (the VIN lets me think it is a MY 00) i tried the sync via ignition as well, but I don't know how that should be done exactly

The microswitch will probably be the explanation.... guess I'll rip the latch out of the HSE and put it in this one then.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
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4,227 Posts
Have a look at my thread (which is now a sticky, I've noticed) which has a PDF file in it on how to test the door latch..

Yes, the EKA should allow you to start the vehicle, even without syncing the remote FOB.

Immobiliser fault.. I have heard of this being a BECM issue as I have. a couple at home have an immobiliser fault, which from what I gather is unfixable usually, even by someone like rick at callrova.

If you aren't in a massive hurry, then if you want to send the becm to me in the UK, I can hook it up to my SM035 module on Faultmate and bench test it out, or clone it onto a spare BECM if you have one(or I can supply a replacement logic board if required)

Check the door latches first. Also for the EKA to be input properly, all doors, tailgate (possibly bonnet too) need to be closed.

Sent from my S4
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I had seen the latch check topic Matin, and was going to before swapping the latch ;)

EKA entering seems to be going wrong, as the doors don't open on CDL after it, as a fact, I did have them opening on CDL before, and they don't anymore now (stopped working before I started trying to enter the EKA)

while charging the battery i noticed the car locking and unlocking it self in intervals of a few minutes or so....

so I'll take the doorcard off and have a look at the lock.

should there be need for the BECM to be done, I could sent it to the UK, and still have the one from the HSE wich could be cloned (and leaving me extra keys too )

But i will have a look at the lock first....

Closing the bonnet is difficult as the battery is jumped to have power.... have a new one but that's in the HSE 200km away
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
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4,227 Posts
If the vehicle has been locked with the remote, and then you try to open it with the manual key (say remote has stopped working, or lost sync) then the key will only unlock the drivers door.

To get the manual key to unlock the rest of the doors and then turn off immobiliser (and so you can resynch the remote) then EKA needs to be input (to tell it, basically, that you're not trying to steal it).

If there is a fault in the latch then the EKA won't be transmitted to the BECM - and you are stuck at square one.

I don't think it is absolutely necessary to have the bonnet closed whilst doing EKA.. but you can 'fool' the system into thinking the bonnet is closed, when it's open by disconnecting the bonnet switch (the way the circuit works, if it's disconnected it always thinks it's closed)

I would definitely suspect one of the front latches if you say the doors were locking and unlocking themselves on their own. (could be a BECM thing - but I am pretty sure the BECM will only try to keep locking the vehicle if it thinks there's something wrong to keep the vehicle secure. Locking and unlocking on it's own to me definitely sounds like a dodgy CDL switch.

BECM wise, cloning one to another won't give you extra keys - as you can only have one set of FOB programmed at a time, due to how they are coded to the lockset.

However, if you have say 1 key with the DSE and 2 keys for the HSE, then I could in theory leave the HSE key fobs programmed, and then they would be recognised by the DSE when installed (but the old DSE one wouldn't be anymore). It would also mean (unless you changed ignition barrel, door handle and glove box lock from HSE to DSE) that the key blade from the DSE would still do door/ignition and remote from HSE would do the remote part. You could just change the key blades over, but in some ways if the HSE is a parts truck, I would be inclined to swap the locks over, and then you have a fully working system in the simplest way.

It would also mean that to get another key if required, you could then just order one with the VIN number of the HSE and then it would come programmed and cut for the locks.

Hope this helps.

Marty
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
could the right door being stuck in superlock be causing the left door not accepting the EKA ?

since lots of things have been kept to the right door for the lhd vehicles ?
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
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4,227 Posts
The only thing that is retained on the RH door in LHD vehicles is the tailgate locking. The key switch for EKA input etc is all in the left door.

But yes it is possibly that the RHF door latch could be causing problems depending on what state it's failed in.

Though if it had failed in an 'unlocked' state (as far as microswitch shows) then I would have thought that it would be constantly trying to unlock the other doors...

Which as you've said its tried to do when charging the battery, it is possible.

I would still check the drivers side first. If that tests as being OK, then you'll have to get the other door open before you could check the microswitches in that latch anyway.



Sent from my S4
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
not at work adress today, but the drilbusches have arrived.... this weekend it's "break into your own car" weekend ;-)
 
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SO... this morning went to the car, finding the ticklecharger saying "full" about the two old batteries connected together with jumpstartcables (the one in the car and the other old one) it was connected to....

wanted to try EKA once more.... turned key to "lock", hearing the CDL working again..... was not working before... So tried syncing the FOB, well what you know... car reacts to FOB again...

SO... with best hope, i got in the car, put key in the ignition, turned in pos 2, waited till glowindicator went out....turned key...NOTHING,, only a click in BECM.....(but allso no immobiliser message in display) now I think the gear selector is disconnected from the gearbox or so.. feels a bit resistanceless compared to my DSE, no indication in the dash on what gear is selected....

SO,,,,, now I have to get it a bit up in the air, and craw underneath on my muddy driveway after a few showers last evening and night :(
and see what ever they have ruined down there....................................../:( I want a ramp and a roomy shed to place it/:(
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Pipe Auto part Fuel line Vehicle
well....that explains this issue.....now find a decent priced switch to put there ;-)

while I lay under the car I looked around and immediatly had great admire for the last mechanic that changed the oil...NOT

Tire Automotive tire Auto part Metal
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
well.... I heard the guy who worked on the DSE where I bought it was sacked due to stealing from the boss.... missing some parts (HEVAC controll panel, MAF sensor, selector switch, parcelshelf, what i have not missed yet) perhaps they were asked for in his selling circuit too...
 
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