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Hello,

I drive an Alfa Romeo now and have formerly owned a few BMW's. Looking for another vehicle and came across a 2010 Range Rover with 59K. They are willing to take 16,900. Clean Carfax and maintenance has been done. Looking for the pros and cons of this vehicle.

Thank you,

Kelly
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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122 Posts
Look at the service history if timing tensioner/chain was replaced. up until something like mid 2012 production date (label on the door jam, not what paperwork says) there was a flaw in tensioner design, if that was done - huge plus towards OK to buy. Beyond that, same as I was told by XoutPost members when I was getting ready buy my 2006 E53 X5 with 6sp manual, I can tell you - please make sure you're in peace with spending another 2-3-4 grand to take care of some here and there, basically perfect it to your liking.
At this mileage you should change all fluids in Transmission, Transfer Case, Differentials, Engine - obviously, may be do spark plugs, filters and other basic tune up items to prolong/preserve life of a vital components. No doubt you will enjoy this SUV but it is maintenance hungry. Do not buy it with your last money :)
 

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I recently bought a 2010 that was in great condition and a very good price. 90,000 miles on the odometer non-supercharged version. I would echo what has been said above, especially about the timing chain tension system. Since yours is much lower mileage you might not start hearing the noise or having issues until later. Mine is getting noisier and I will need to spend several thousand to have the timing chain system repaired properly. It was part of my evaluation in buying the car, knowing it would have to be done at some point. You may not end up having the issue or you may be able to make it close to 100k miles before it starts making noise.

I also needed to replace a hub/bearing on the front wheel. This is quite common. I'm also trying to sort out a slight groaning, change in sound pitch, and very subtle short vibration that I sometimes feel through the steering wheel when starting off from a stop or going up a steep hill. Not sure if it's the timing chain related, a grumpy front differential, low range gearbox, or a CV joint. None of this worries me to much because I'm sure it can be repaired and I got the car at a pretty deep discount because of the issues. If anyone has advice or ideas on these issues reply and let me know...

I found this video to be pretty accurate to my experience in what to look for and the typical things that can go wrong with this model year:
There's a lot of little things and some big things.

Also find a good local independent Land Rover mechanic. It's good to get advice and work done from a variety of sources to find a good balance between quality or service, honesty, and price. I've been flat out lied to by the local Land Rover dealer to get me to spend money, and I've had a local independent shop do some less than quality diagnostics and repair work. There's lots of info out there on these L320 Range Rover Sports and the more you learn from research and other people's experience, the more it will benefit you. I'm enjoying the car immensely but it is certainly a unique beast and does need attention from time to time.

Life is too short to drive boring cars!!!
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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this version of the sport, 2010-2013, is usually pretty good mechanically. i believe the supercharged version causes the timing chain issue to occur at a faster rate. i've had no problems with my 2011 non-SC, but then again i don't thrash my SUV trying to make it act like a sports car :) however, I have taken mine off road many times when camping, which it performed perfectly, and still no mechanical issues over past 7 years. Take care of it with regular maintenance, and it will take care of you.
 

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I do think these cars get a lot of bad praise when they're actually mechanically quite good! I've opened mine up a few times and been quite happy to see the build quality is great and the parts look solid. As echoed by @cityboyatl just look after it and change the oil every 6 months (very important irrespective of mileage) and you should be OK.
 
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