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Looked at 2014 RR ATB to buy. Questions/concerns? Video and pics attached

6K views 55 replies 14 participants last post by  brad s1 
#1 · (Edited)
Does this sound normal?

2014 ATB w/ around 30k miles. I noticed the engine has like a ticking sound to it. Do these 5.0L v8 SC engines have a vanos? Fuel pump? Lifters? It seemed louder on the left side (passenger side) of the engine cover. This was on a cold start. It may have quieted down once it warmed up but can’t 100% recall.



also getting a “low battery” message on the dash? “Low battery please start the engine”? Failing battery?
 
#4 ·
Hmm interesting. At 30k miles I’d hope there wouldn’t be something up with the SC...or the engine in general.

Wondering if this sound is business as usual or something of concern. If the SC V8 is not a long lasting engine (150k miles+) I might want to think elsewhere. I have 195k on my 4.4L v8. L322
 
#38 ·
I would proceed with extreme caution. You seem emotionally tied to the vehicle due to its cosmetic condition and good looks, but your gut is telling you there’s a problem. Trust your gut! (based on what you’ve described). It sounds like the original owner knew how to keep it clean or shell out a couple hundred bucks for a good detail, but didn’t invest in keeping it serviced. Are there any records? If you absolutely must proceed, I second the advice to have it inspected by a reputable, independent shop specializing in Land Rover.
 
#5 ·
I've had many different vehicles and once I get to around 75k miles, I start looking to sell it because it seems that's the mileage that vehicles start to require more maintenance service and attention. If I ever kept a vehicle past 75k miles then I had extended warranty coverage...just for peace of mind. This is my approach with any brand, not just Land Rover.
 
#6 ·
It’s not the supercharger. My supercharger has a slight knock on it but only at startup and not when revving the engine. That is a valve tick, and it sounds like it got low oil at one point or overheated. Run Forrest Run, your engine has problems.
 
#7 ·
The supercharger would sound like marbles, but only on hot start up and literally for 3 seconds and then goes away it’s really a slight noise. When the car is in drive it’s gone. My 5.0 SC has 87k quiet as a whisper and doesn’t burn a drop of oil and I got a year left on CPO warranty!
 
#8 ·
Valve guides, lose timing chain, bad lifters your throwing good money after bad.
 
#9 ·
Wait so you listed several different things. Which is it that you think is causing the ticking? So this isn’t how the 5.0 SC usually sounds then?
 
#10 · (Edited)
Exterior and especially interior look brand new. It definitely looks like it was babied inside. Rear seats look like never been sat in.

Got under and took some pics

Some rust on it. Canister has some rust. Looks to be surface rust. Not sure what this part is
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Misc rust.
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Also looks to be a small leak on the rear diff? There is a plastic box right in front of the hitch that appears to have some blow back oil on it. The plug you can see has a drip on it.
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What do you guys think? I’m planing on telling them I want to take it LR for a PPI.
 
#13 ·
Thank you! Just saw your reply. Comforting message. I was hoping this was normal.
 
#12 ·
Found this video of a brand new RR with under 100 miles on it for comparison. From the 1:45 mark on you can hear the engine in between the revs. I can hear the same faint ticking on there too.

My video was my phone wedged down beside the engine cover so it could have made it sound louder



My video was my phone wedged down beside the engine cover so it could have made it sound louder
 
#19 ·
Ray, I was in your Range Rover last week I didn’t hear a thing, your car is whisper quiet.
 
#15 ·
FYI the timing chain noise sounds like a diesel at idle.

Some 5.0 SC are not as loud as others with this “chatter”. Mine has always been this loud. You can also feel the ticking and the injector ticking in the cabin through the seat if it’s extremely cold outside

I had the dealer check out and they found the timing chain/guides within spec. They also said this noise is normal and as the engine ages it’s more noisy.
 
#16 ·
I just watched some videos I took on my phone over the months and the nose is 100% indentical. I’ve heard fuel pumps are loud too on this motor

The noise is more noisy on the drivers side vs the passenger side
 
#17 ·
yes it does sound like a tractor or diesel at idle is the best I can describe the chatter as. Thanks for looking into. Although it seemed a bit louder on the passenger side of the engine e cover on this one...you mentioned it’s louder on your driver side.

so now that we have the engine sound squared away...what do you think about the rest of the concerns? I’m a little worried about that rear diff leak. The other things I’d assume are just typical surface rust.

And the “low battery please start the engine” I would assume is a sign the battery is on its way out and to have them put in a new one if I’m going to buy it.
 
#18 ·
I’m sorry fellas, I respectfully disagree here.

I had 2016 5.0 supercharged l405 Autobiography. I currently own 2013 5.0 HSE with 104,000 on the clock, and I currently own a 2014 5.0 supercharged Autobiography, neither of the engines are that loud. I ignored the service guidelines and change the oil every 3-5k.

That ticking noise is louder than normal. I’ve never heard a ticking engine inside the drivers compartment in ALL 3 OF MY RANGE ROVER FULL SIZED. EVER! It’s whisper quiet even with the slight super charger knock.

Ok, please don’t take our advice, just get a ppi at another dealer, plan to spend 3-600 bucks for a service tech to go over the vehicle, I would go to an independent tech and have them be brutally honest.

Please get it looked at. There are a ton of used l405 vehicles with better engines and even CPO warranty!

Don’t listen to any arm chair internet mechanics.
 
#20 · (Edited)
I’m sorry fellas, I respectfully disagree here.

I had 2016 5.0 supercharged l405 Autobiography. I currently own 2013 5.0 HSE with 104,000 on the clock, and I currently own a 2014 5.0 supercharged Autobiography, neither of the engines are that loud. I ignored the service guidelines and change the oil every 3-5k.

That ticking noise is louder than normal. I’ve never heard a ticking engine inside the drivers compartment in ALL 3 OF MY RANGE ROVER FULL SIZED. EVER! It’s whisper quiet even with the slight super charger knock.

Ok, please don’t take our advice, just get a ppi at another dealer, plan to spend 3-600 bucks for a service tech to go over the vehicle, I would go to an independent tech and have them be brutally honest.

Please get it looked at. There are a ton of used l405 vehicles with better engines and even CPO warranty!

Don’t listen to any arm chair internet mechanics.
Ray's is a NA not a SC FWIW.

It wasn't as loud as the vid in person standing in front of it. I wedged my phone down in the engine so I could get a proper recording of the sound (the dealer is right off the highway so I didn't want passing cars to interrupt the sound). You can tell when I brought the phone out of the engine over top of the engine cover the sound is quiter. The sound I heard seems to be identicle to the other video above which you can hear from 1:45 on....that engine has less than 100 miles.

I do plan on getting a PPI. There is a Land Rover dealer right down the road from this car dealer. This RR is at an "ultra luxury OEM dealer", so I'd hope they would only acquire good examples for their used cars but that could be putting too much faith in them.

Thanks so far for the responses. Still open to hear more opinions....
 
#22 ·
I have a similar "ticking" noise on my 14 5.0SC... It has 86,500 miles on it. It was serviced at the dealer at the recommended intervals up to about 70K and then I started doing 5-7K mile oil changes with LiquiMoly LR Tech and OEM oil filter.

I use BG 44K, BG MOA, and BG Motor oil flush every other oil change and it definetely makes a difference. The motor oil additive gives better lubrication to minimize timing guide wear, and the 44K keeps the fuel injectors clean. The motor oil flush they have is superb. I put it in and drained all the oil out of the bottom, the oil was much dirtier than when I just drained it without the flush additive. That tells me the flush is cleaning out junk in the crankcase.

No issues so far at 86K... doing a transmission fluid change here shortly and already drained and refilled the diffs/transfer case. Replaced both forward and rearward controls arms on the fronts on both sides.
 
#25 ·
Do you have a diy or any tips on how to best do the transmission and diffs/transfer case fluid change?

I was about to attempt that myself and was going to start the research on fluids and how to best remove and fill.

I have a fluid extractor and do my own oil/filter changes on my l405.
 
#23 ·
Also, check oil level is a little tricky. You have to open the hood, go into the oil level menu and immediately double press the button about the heated steering wheel on the steering wheel for REAL TIME oil level, let it sit in that mode for 5 minutes and that will be your oil level. Check it 5-10 minutes after driving the car at normal operating temperature when the engine is off.

You will see it fluctuate. OP may be low on oil? I always notice the engine is super quiet when I first do an oil change and then it gets barely louder towards the end of the oil life...
 
#24 ·
jpatel....thanks for the info. Thats one of my check items I performed for the car. I wanted to see the oil level. That was one of the things we couldn't figure out... GM at dealer thought there was a dipstick...I said its prob an electronic one. He looked in the nav screen for a while and then I said let me try and I found the service menu in the gauge cluster. It said engine oil was unavail. I checked the manual and it said the car has to sit and you need to check it cold....if you drive it and then try to check it you;ll get that "not available".

So we aren't sure what the level is....I would have thought it would have been changed before putting on the lot but who knows with these dealers....I hate not being able to see the oil condition on a dipstick.

So you feel this engine chatter is normal and you have the same on yours? Did you have it since you purchased it new?
 
#29 · (Edited)
Direct injected engines always make noises with ticking. I have heard a dozen l405 because when I bought it I noticed the ticking and it was significantly louder than my old Swb l405 AB.

My office used to be next to a high end European dealership that had over 20-25 L405 13-19 not to mention another 20 L494 all various miles and engines. On some sundays I would help the guys out and tested the noise level on the motors and all had the similar ticking. Some had significant loud knocking that was tell tale timing noise. A bunch of (new under 10 miles) loaners I’ve had recently have 2.0 engine (totally different) I know but have rhythmic ticking and tapping noises that would concern you if the car had no warranty or had high miles.

The same place had many lr4/l322/old sports so I definitely know the noise between timing noise and normal engine clatter.

My old BMWs same thing with the direct injection some had significant motor noise. One 335 I bought CPO 27k miles I had heavily modified had super loud lifters that would tick and engine rattle. I got rid of it at 80k the new owner has 140k on it no issues. My old 750li N63 engine had significant timing chain slap on cold start that you would hear. There was cases of this timing chain destroying the engine at a point I had timing chain and vanos errors with the engine in restricted mode I drove it like that for thousands of mile thinking the worst. When I had the valve seals done the car passed the timing chain test I replaced all 4 solenoids and no more restricted performance. Still heard that loud slap though.

Long post but point being sometimes you have to enjoy the truck. These things make noises. I’ve seen many of these 5.0 SC with over 200k.

In my case if this noise was really a timing issue the dealer would no doubt use the full opportunity to milk my warranty. I actually want this repair done under warranty so with fresh chains and guides and my short OCI I should be good for another 150k. I only worry about the tech working on this type of job. Unfortunately there is not many good independent shops that service these trucks. I’ve thought about going to a New England dealer but I see bad reviews for them too. Most people use the dealer and the independents haven’t really seen any newer trucks.
 
#31 ·
Great reply. But the last paragraph threw me off...you said you want your dealer “to do this repair”. Are you saying it’s an issue or it isn’t? Or you just want the dealer to put a new timing chain and guides as preventative maintenance?

The sound in the OP is standard in your opinion for this engine? I shouldn’t have a concern here and not to worry about purchasing ?
 
#30 ·
jpatel those are great guides thanks for the post.

I hadn’t heard of that company or those products until your post. I did some research and would like to use their fuel cleaner and maybe the oil additive too. I use the liqu moly oil as well and have noticed the ticking has quieted down but it’s still there. I do oil change every 5k miles.

I see that you are selling your truck. I would keep it after all that work and maintenance. It’s a good looking truck.
 
#32 ·
I’m saying either way I have the warranty so if it is an issue great if not then oh well even better.

based on that noise I would say that’s normal operation and I’ve extensively researched this issue but I’m not an expert but then again seems like most of the techs at Lr aren’t either
 
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#33 ·
I will upload a video of my 30k mile 5.0 SC

Everything sounds fine in that video. Bad timing chains sounds like marbles being dumped into the motor.

Video attached is first start after a week or so of not driving.



There's another video on my channel of my old Sport, that had new timing chains. HSE, non supercharged 5.0.

The rusted part you showed is the active sway bar.
 
#34 ·
Keralis thank you for that! It sounds the exact same as my vid.

active sway bar doesn’t seem like a big deal. Looks to be just surface rust.

do you think the rear diff “leak” is an issue? Could just be some spillage if they checked the fluids. There was a drop on the plug but nothing on the ground where it was Parked for 24 hours. I read these have a tendency to have a bad pinion seal...not sure if that’s an expensive fix or not.
 
#35 ·
Rear diff leak is something I’d check the fluid on, and keep an eye on it.

To reseal one of these diffs its many hours of labour and could quite possibly rack up to thousands.

So I do my best to keep check on levels and that’s the end of it.

There’s no getting around it..once British always British

If it didn’t leak, there wouldn’t be any oil in it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
#37 ·
Rear diff leak is something I’d check the fluid on, and keep an eye on it.

To reseal one of these diffs its many hours of labour and could quite possibly rack up to thousands.

So I do my best to keep check on levels and that’s the end of it.

There’s no getting around it..once British always British

If it didn’t leak, there wouldn’t be any oil in it.
Will do....I plan on telling the dealer I want to take it to Land Rover for a PPI and I'll have them look at the rear diff.


The rust would be enough to scare me away.
The 1 owner car was from north east USA so its the snow/salt belt. I'm also in the snow/salt belt so rust is going to happen. I just wanted to see if these parts/areas were a red flag. I'm sure there isn't much treatment on these parts so rust will show. Reason I'm picking this vehicle is b/c its made of alluminum.
 
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