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Locked out...

1121 Views 9 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  annette
Hello all,
1996 P38, LHD, Diesel.
Situation: Remote was inoperative, so we used the key for a while, until I got round to replacing the remote receiver with a later (gen3?) one.
Reset the key fob, all good.
Whilst using the key, however, I noticed it was a bit 'notchy', and would need the mechanism replacing sometime soon.
Daughter borrowed car, managed to (somehow) loosen the batteries in the remote fob, and couldn't put it back together. I have since rebuilt the fob.
However...the door barrel seems to have lost the mechanical connection with the locking mechanism, the door doesn't open on the key, nor does it accept the EKA, for the same reason.
I can get the back door open, scarily easily!, with wedges and bit of wire, ignition comes on, but engine is immobilised.
I have a nanocom, but I'm not too familiar with what it can/can't do.
I'm thinking I may have to destroy the door card to get access to the lock mechanism, not a problem, I have another, BUT...is there a way to use nanocom to 'bypass' the engine immobiliser so I can drive the car home to my garage before starting work? Or am out in the open? Not bad weather today, but...
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Richard G,
Thanks, mate, that might just get me home! I probably won't be able to unlock the door, unless the central locking will pop them all by lifting the passenger side lock button, I think the latch control rod has come off, it does nothing at the moment, though the back doors both open, neither front door does. No big deal, I have a spare set of door cards! :)
Brilliant! Thanks, guys, I'll have a go at it today, let you know how I get on...
Well done, you lot!
As soon as the EKA was in, the doors popped, engine started. Brilliant!
Car's home. I'll take off the door card tomorrow and see what the problem is, I reckon it's just one of the control rods dropped of. Well, hope so, anyway!
Thanks, guys, you rock!:thumb:
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