Blimey, Ian you were very lucky to unlock a 1996 like this, usually the early BECMs don't allow this!
Well done
Well done
Locked out...
Hello all,
1996 P38, LHD, Diesel.
Situation: Remote was inoperative, so we used the key for a while, until I got round to replacing the remote receiver with a later (gen3?) one.
Reset the key fob, all good.
Whilst using the key, however, I noticed it was a bit 'notchy', and would need the mechanism replacing sometime soon.
Daughter borrowed car, managed to (somehow) loosen the batteries in the remote fob, and couldn't put it back together. I have since rebuilt the fob.
However...the door barrel seems to have lost the mechanical connection with the locking mechanism, the door doesn't open on the key, nor does it accept the EKA, for the same reason.
I can get the back door open, scarily easily!, with wedges and bit of wire, ignition comes on, but engine is immobilised.
I have a nanocom, but I'm not too familiar with what it can/can't do.
I'm thinking I may have to destroy the door card to get access to the lock mechanism, not a problem, I have another, BUT...is there a way to use nanocom to 'bypass' the engine immobiliser so I can drive the car home to my garage before starting work? Or am out in the open? Not bad weather today, but...
Thanks,
Iain
1996 P38, LHD, Diesel.
Situation: Remote was inoperative, so we used the key for a while, until I got round to replacing the remote receiver with a later (gen3?) one.
Reset the key fob, all good.
Whilst using the key, however, I noticed it was a bit 'notchy', and would need the mechanism replacing sometime soon.
Daughter borrowed car, managed to (somehow) loosen the batteries in the remote fob, and couldn't put it back together. I have since rebuilt the fob.
However...the door barrel seems to have lost the mechanical connection with the locking mechanism, the door doesn't open on the key, nor does it accept the EKA, for the same reason.
I can get the back door open, scarily easily!, with wedges and bit of wire, ignition comes on, but engine is immobilised.
I have a nanocom, but I'm not too familiar with what it can/can't do.
I'm thinking I may have to destroy the door card to get access to the lock mechanism, not a problem, I have another, BUT...is there a way to use nanocom to 'bypass' the engine immobiliser so I can drive the car home to my garage before starting work? Or am out in the open? Not bad weather today, but...
Thanks,
Iain
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