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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all! I am completely locked out of my Rover. The battery is not dead. The key fobs haven't worked for some time and I just enter with the key each morning locking an unlocking manually. I sent my kid down to open the door last week and she tried and tried so I believe the car went on super lockdown - thinking it was being stolen. I can barely turn the key when attempting the lock (forward) turn. I tried the 1515 and it didn't work. The lights flash 3 times when I turn to the unlock (backward toward rear of vehicle) position but no lights when i turn toward the front (lock position) The little red light on the dash flashes quickly when I do this. Then it slows again to normal pace. The doors do not open.
I have also tried the lock and hold for 3 seconds attempt to get in> 3 sec unlock and hold and then 3 sec lock and hold ... to no avail.
Can anyone please tell me what I can do or try next?
 

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Have you tried to synch the fobs - ever, or now?
Hi there. I am not sure if you have managed to get into your car.
Please find attached a possible cause & solution to your problem.
I hope it works for you.
Regards
Iain

Lately there seems to be an increasing number of owners reporting that they are having problems with opening the doors on their P38s.
The first diagnosis being put forward is that the door or doors have somehow “Superlocked” themselves. This is a possibility but most certainly not always the case.
So before you follow some of the many drastic solutions offered over the Internet,
Ripping off the door card & smashing the latch.
Cutting through the locking latch on the door pillar
Some even suggesting removing the front wing to axmccess the door hinges!!
Do yourself a favour and try this first., you won’t need any fancy diagnostics tools, expensive mobile locksmiths door locks or windows.
The actual problem is usually nothing more than a sticky latch, the outer door seal wear over time and therefore allow rain water to run down the glass into the door where it ends up dropping on the latch mechanism which in turn causes the lock to become very stiff.
The door latch ends up in a half locked / half open state, this is what causes the lock to “bounce” ( every time you unlock it, it locks its self again. (if you suffer from bouncing locks, this is an early warning that your lick is starting to seize up ( it is not always faulty micro switches) it is that simple.
Please also study my questionnaire regarding Key Code Lockout & Engine Disabled issues. These two problems are not related in any way and should not be confused with each other.
Now arm yourself with the following equipment
A good bright torch (slim if possible)
A small wedge shaped piece of plastic or wood ( not too thick)
Along thin screwdriver of long thin ruler or even a knitting needle (no. 6 or 8)

Use your remote fob or manual key to gain access to the car.
Once in the car fully open the window in the Drivers door
Place your small wedge between the inside of the window & the door shell ( so as to give you a better view)
Now you need to shine your torch down the inside of the door shell (The same side as your wedge)
Please watch the small video ( Video 1) attached at the foot of this file.
It will show you the action that should happen when you pull on the inside handle
When you pull the handle there should be very little free movement between the lever that the control cable pulls & the white plastic crossbar in the latch mechanism.
If do do see an open space between the control cable arm & the crossbar then you need to carefully push the crossbar down towards the lever on the control cable arm.
You should now be able to pull up the door lick button & open your door.
If there is no clearance as mentioned above then repeat the proceedure by pulling on the outside door handle.
Please refer to video 2 attached to see how the outer door handle operates the latch mechanism.
If you find the free movement gap while operating the outer handle repeat the step pushing down on the outside end of the crossbar.
I hope this helps a few P38 owners & saves them from pulling their hair out.
Regards
Iain
We R Rangerover P38s Ltd.
Hi all! I am completely locked out of my Rover. The battery is not dead. The key fobs haven't worked for some time and I just enter with the key each morning locking an unlocking manually. I sent my kid down to open the door last week and she tried and tried so I believe the car went on super lockdown - thinking it was being stolen. I can barely turn the key when attempting the lock (forward) turn. I tried the 1515 and it didn't work. The lights flash 3 times when I turn to the unlock (backward toward rear of vehicle) position but no lights when i turn toward the front (lock position) The little red light on the dash flashes quickly when I do this. Then it slows again to normal pace. The doors do not open.
I have also tried the lock and hold for 3 seconds attempt to get in> 3 sec unlock and hold and then 3 sec lock and hold ... to no avail.
Can anyone please tell me what I can do or try next?
Here is a possible solution to your problem
Regards
Iain
Lately there seems to be an increasing number of owners reporting that they are having problems with opening the doors on their P38s.
The first diagnosis being put forward is that the door or doors have somehow “Superlocked” themselves. This is a possibility but most certainly not always the case.
So before you follow some of the many drastic solutions offered over the Internet,
Ripping off the door card & smashing the latch.
Cutting through the locking latch on the door pillar
Some even suggesting removing the front wing to axmccess the door hinges!!
Do yourself a favour and try this first., you won’t need any fancy diagnostics tools, expensive mobile locksmiths door locks or windows.
The actual problem is usually nothing more than a sticky latch, the outer door seal wear over time and therefore allow rain water to run down the glass into the door where it ends up dropping on the latch mechanism which in turn causes the lock to become very stiff.
The door latch ends up in a half locked / half open state, this is what causes the lock to “bounce” ( every time you unlock it, it locks its self again. (if you suffer from bouncing locks, this is an early warning that your lick is starting to seize up ( it is not always faulty micro switches) it is that simple.
Please also study my questionnaire regarding Key Code Lockout & Engine Disabled issues. These two problems are not related in any way and should not be confused with each other.
Now arm yourself with the following equipment
A good bright torch (slim if possible)
A small wedge shaped piece of plastic or wood ( not too thick)
Along thin screwdriver of long thin ruler or even a knitting needle (no. 6 or 8)

Use your remote fob or manual key to gain access to the car.
Once in the car fully open the window in the Drivers door
Place your small wedge between the inside of the window & the door shell ( so as to give you a better view)
Now you need to shine your torch down the inside of the door shell (The same side as your wedge)
Please watch the small video ( Video 1) attached at the foot of this file.
It will show you the action that should happen when you pull on the inside handle
When you pull the handle there should be very little free movement between the lever that the control cable pulls & the white plastic crossbar in the latch mechanism.
If do do see an open space between the control cable arm & the crossbar then you need to carefully push the crossbar down towards the lever on the control cable arm.
You should now be able to pull up the door lick button & open your door.
If there is no clearance as mentioned above then repeat the proceedure by pulling on the outside door handle.
Please refer to video 2 attached to see how the outer door handle operates the latch mechanism.
If you find the free movement gap while operating the outer handle repeat the step pushing down on the outside end of the crossbar.
I hope this helps a few P38 owners & saves them from pulling their hair out.
Regards
Iain
We R Rangerover P38s Ltd.
 

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Use your remote fob or manual key to gain access to the car.
As the OP states they can't get into the car, this is the bit they can't do so your advice following that is irrelevant.

Lights flashing and the alarm light flashing at a different rate both suggest that the microswitches are working. You say the fob has not worked for a while, does the red LED on the fob still flash when you press a button?

Hazard lights flashing 3 times is a sign that the car has been superlocked, when locking they flash once if you lock it and 3 times if you superlock it. Alarm light flashing quickly is when it is initialising and it slows to normal rate once it is initialised and set. On a LHD car, lock is clockwise (backwards) and unlock is anti-clockwise (forward) so that is correct (it is the opposite way round on a RHD car that I mostly work on). So it sounds as though you are locking the car all the time rather than unlocking it. You say that it is very stiff to turn the key, has it been like this for a while or been getting progressively worse, my lock was stiff when I used it a few weeks ago but that was purely down to lack of use as I always use the fob. If it has been getting worse, then a lube spray into the lock may well be all it needs. When you turn the key to unlock, does the sill button inside the car pop up and stay up or does it pop up then go back down again?

If the LED on the fob still flashes it may only need syncing to get it working again but you can't do that while the alarm is set so you need to get over the current problem before you can sync the fob. Using the key in the lock was only ever designed as an emergency option if the fob fails, the mechanism and linkage was never designed to be used all the time so will fail if you use it regularly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As the OP states they can't get into the car, this is the bit they can't do so your advice following that is irrelevant.

Lights flashing and the alarm light flashing at a different rate both suggest that the microswitches are working. You say the fob has not worked for a while, does the red LED on the fob still flash when you press a button?

Hazard lights flashing 3 times is a sign that the car has been superlocked, when locking they flash once if you lock it and 3 times if you superlock it. Alarm light flashing quickly is when it is initialising and it slows to normal rate once it is initialised and set. On a LHD car, lock is clockwise (backwards) and unlock is anti-clockwise (forward) so that is correct (it is the opposite way round on a RHD car that I mostly work on). So it sounds as though you are locking the car all the time rather than unlocking it. You say that it is very stiff to turn the key, has it been like this for a while or been getting progressively worse, my lock was stiff when I used it a few weeks ago but that was purely down to lack of use as I always use the fob. If it has been getting worse, then a lube spray into the lock may well be all it needs. When you turn the key to unlock, does the sill button inside the car pop up and stay up or does it pop up then go back down again?

If the LED on the fob still flashes it may only need syncing to get it working again but you can't do that while the alarm is set so you need to get over the current problem before you can sync the fob. Using the key in the lock was only ever designed as an emergency option if the fob fails, the mechanism and linkage was never designed to be used all the time so will fail if you use it regularly.
Thank you for the response. Both fobs are dead and I am putting in new batteries now. Key 1 lights up red but is static. then it went off and wont come back on. argh. I will try again tomorrow in the daylight to sync them but I suspect that i am superlocked out and it wont sync. A catch 22 of sorts? There is a code and of course its in the glovebox - which i said id never do. of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
SO I got in! I replaced the batteries in key 1 and was able to unlock it using the key. The fob wont unlock the door but I am in. Any chance you all know how to sync the fob again?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Here is a possible solution to your problem
Regards
Iain
Lately there seems to be an increasing number of owners reporting that they are having problems with opening the doors on their P38s.
The first diagnosis being put forward is that the door or doors have somehow “Superlocked” themselves. This is a possibility but most certainly not always the case.
So before you follow some of the many drastic solutions offered over the Internet,
Ripping off the door card & smashing the latch.
Cutting through the locking latch on the door pillar
Some even suggesting removing the front wing to axmccess the door hinges!!
Do yourself a favour and try this first., you won’t need any fancy diagnostics tools, expensive mobile locksmiths door locks or windows.
The actual problem is usually nothing more than a sticky latch, the outer door seal wear over time and therefore allow rain water to run down the glass into the door where it ends up dropping on the latch mechanism which in turn causes the lock to become very stiff.
The door latch ends up in a half locked / half open state, this is what causes the lock to “bounce” ( every time you unlock it, it locks its self again. (if you suffer from bouncing locks, this is an early warning that your lick is starting to seize up ( it is not always faulty micro switches) it is that simple.
Please also study my questionnaire regarding Key Code Lockout & Engine Disabled issues. These two problems are not related in any way and should not be confused with each other.
Now arm yourself with the following equipment
A good bright torch (slim if possible)
A small wedge shaped piece of plastic or wood ( not too thick)
Along thin screwdriver of long thin ruler or even a knitting needle (no. 6 or 8)

Use your remote fob or manual key to gain access to the car.
Once in the car fully open the window in the Drivers door
Place your small wedge between the inside of the window & the door shell ( so as to give you a better view)
Now you need to shine your torch down the inside of the door shell (The same side as your wedge)
Please watch the small video ( Video 1) attached at the foot of this file.
It will show you the action that should happen when you pull on the inside handle
When you pull the handle there should be very little free movement between the lever that the control cable pulls & the white plastic crossbar in the latch mechanism.
If do do see an open space between the control cable arm & the crossbar then you need to carefully push the crossbar down towards the lever on the control cable arm.
You should now be able to pull up the door lick button & open your door.
If there is no clearance as mentioned above then repeat the proceedure by pulling on the outside door handle.
Please refer to video 2 attached to see how the outer door handle operates the latch mechanism.
If you find the free movement gap while operating the outer handle repeat the step pushing down on the outside end of the crossbar.
I hope this helps a few P38 owners & saves them from pulling their hair out.
Regards
Iain
We R Rangerover P38s Ltd.
At one point we had phantom locks (lock/unlock randomly!) and it was due to water actually. replaced and no more of that. Prior to being locked out of the car the inside latch stopped working and I had to roll the window down to get reach outside to let myself out.
 

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To sync the fob put the key in the door lock, turn to lock, hold there. Press and hold the fob lock button until the LED starts to flash faster, release the fob button and turn the key back to centre. Then repeat in the unlock position, turn the key to unlock, hold it there, press and hold the unlock button on the fob until the LED flashes faster, release the fob button, turn the key back to centre. The fob should now be synced and will lock and unlock the car remotely.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks everyone! I'm in the car and the key 1 is synced up:) the rubber pads on the fob are gone so I have to push it with a pencil but at least I'm in. problem now is I cant get out from inside the drivers seat. When I pull the handle it moves but does not open the door. Any thoughts as to what I might do ? thanks.
 

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Replacement rubber pads are cheap and easy to get, see LAND RANGE ROVER P38 95-02 REMOTE KEY FOB BUTTON PAD COVER REPAIR KIT YWC000300 | eBay or order part number YWC000300 from a Land Rover dealer. All you do is lever the old one out with the end of a knife and pop the new one in.

If water has been getting into the door it is likely that the nylon crank the cable from the interior handle attaches to has got stiff on it's pivot. That is probably what caused you to have the problems before, it hadn't returned fully. You'll need ot take the door trim panel off to get to it but the latch doesn't need to come out. A squirt of lube and work it back and forth and it should free off.
 

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For anyone else who finds themselves locked out (or has locked the keys inside the car - like I did). There is a way to pop the tailgate from outside. It involves pulling down the wiring loom at the bottom of the tailgate. If you search the internet you will probably find it. I won't post the details as some people don't like this sort of info to be publicised. PM me for details if you need them
 

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The easiest way to get into a p38 without cutting or breaking things is to carefully pry out the rubber window trim on one of the small triangular glass window inserts found on the rear passenger doors. The glass will come out easily. Reach in and unlock the door. The glass and weatherstrip goes back in easily.
 

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To sync the fob put the key in the door lock, turn to lock, hold there. Press and hold the fob lock button until the LED starts to flash faster, release the fob button and turn the key back to centre. Then repeat in the unlock position, turn the key to unlock, hold it there, press and hold the unlock button on the fob until the LED flashes faster, release the fob button, turn the key back to centre. The fob should now be synced and will lock and unlock the car remotely.
Maybe a dumb question, but my keys are worn---does it matter which button is lock vs unlock or are they assigned/specific to the button?
 

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Maybe a dumb question, but my keys are worn---does it matter which button is lock vs unlock or are they assigned/specific to the button?
Yes, it's no good pressing the wrong button. When the key is turned to Lock, it is expecting to see a Lock signal.

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