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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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118 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My Range has been standing for a long time, now it's time to reactivate it. I have to get it (MOT) approved and as I drove a test drive yesterday, I noticed the left rear wheel isn't braking as well as the others (the rust isn't worn off as much as at the other disks and it doesn't get as warm as the others).

I made some (almost) emergency stops from around 100 KPH, to clear the disks from rust, it took som times for it to brake sufficiently. As i felt the wheels when I got home again, the front wheels where some more than hand-warm, the right rear something like hand-warm, but the left one almost cold and the rust had not come completely off.

Some time ago, I had a bit of brake lining replaced, as it ruptured, when it was in the workshop to get the gearbox changed. Could it be, the mechanic hasn't bleeded correct? If the caliper pins are worn, the brake usually sticks/hangs, doesn't it?

I'm having the brake pipes checked at another workshop today, so the have to be bleeded again (if anything has to be changed), and I plan to look after the brake at the same time myself. Is there anything other, I have to be aware of? Why else would it brake less than the others?

None of the brake seems to stick, when I drive normally (with normal traffic braking) none of the brake is especially warm, and there are no noticeable noises. I'm having a hard time to assess, if it accelerates normally, as it is a long time ago, I've been driving the heavy rig on a daily basis, and I have become used to my much more agile Audi A6 2.5tdi.

Also I noticed it had a tendency to pull to the left at higher speeds (above 60 KPH), but I have changed the tie rod and steering rod, and only taken the measure of the old ones and transferred to the new. Could be a millimeter off. Would that explain the left-pull? Tyre air pressure is checked and ok.

Reason to ask is that I want to arrive at the workshop as prepared as possible - and my mechanic (who does good work) isn't that familiar with diagnose the RR. So every hint would be appreciated by both him and me.
 

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Most likely your caliper pins are rusted. If your rig has been sitting for a long period you are absolutely nuts for for doing panic stops to fix things or break them loose. Seriously, it would take you 20 minutes or so per corner to pull the tyres and properly inspect components. Maybe an additional 10 minutes at each corner to remove, polish and grease your guide pins.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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118 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Well, first of all, I of course didn't start it up, blast away with 100 KPH from standing start and most certainly didn't do panic stops from first braking on. Rose brake power from gently testing to some quite hard brakings (without ABS applying), slowly warmed both engine, gearbox and later brakes up. Out on the countryside, small backroads, without other traffic. And a few months ago, I had all brakes off, cleaned the guide pins and greased them. So rusty pins weren't my first guess, that's why I asked in the first place. And rusty pins usually leads to hanging brakes, doesn't it?

Anyway, in the workshop, we discovered the reason for failing left rear brake: Instead of replacing a bit of the brake pipe, as the guy that changed my gearbox said to me, he simply had cut one of the pipes at the master/booster and replaced the coupling with a bleed nipple. So rear left brake pipe was completely disconnected. The small amount of rust, that had been scraped off the disk, was just by it rotating between the pads.

After replacing all brake pipes, bleeding and refilling fluid, it brakes on all four now. Straight, without wobble and without excessive heat, when driving/braking normal.

I didn't get to align the steering, didn't have the time (it's friday and everyone want's to get off early), but intend to measure the distance between the rim edges with a laser range finder, at least so it drives straight ahead again. Should be possible, or not? I interpret the toe out measurement in RAVE's General Specification Data to be measured at the rim edges. And as the car went straight before I replaced the steering- and track rods, this should be the only measurement, that could have changed. But I have to admit, that wrong toe-out (or toe-in) should make the car wandering off to the left (RHD) at higher speeds. Shouldn't it just feel wobbly and all over the road?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Wow, I’d avoid that garage in future, what kind of mechanic removes one of the brakes from a 2.5 ton truck, I would of kicked his butt if he did that to mine, the guy shouldn’t be working on cars !
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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118 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Of course I'll do that! He's based far away anyway, so chances I'll get tempted to use him again, are non existent. I was looking for someone, who could change my gearbox for a reasonable price, was familiar to Range Rovers, wouldn't haste the job or let the apprentice do most of it to save money. I found him through the danish Land Rover community and he seemed to me as a mechanic, I could trust. Especially knowledge about the car made the deal for me, my regular "guy" was hesitating to begin to fiddle with the gearbox (and other things, that are quite special to the P38, and that's, in my opinion, an honest quote).

According to him, the brake pipe burst, as he took it in to the garage, maybe it was an emergency fix, he wanted to correct later, but forgot, don't know. But not really a trustworthy thing to do. My budget was rather stredged at that time, so I decided to see if I could change the brake pipes myself, so I asked him not to change all of them, just make it drivable. As I went on with my project, I realized it would be too much of a hassle, to change them, lying under the car in my driveway, so I left it to my "regular guy" to do it. Done yesterday, and it WAS absolutely necessary. Took much longer time, than expected, so I didn't get it MOT approved. Has to be Monday or Tuesday. Bit of a hassle to get temporary plates to drive to the test center, but managable, because I live near the boarder and have a customs center near by. Otherwise, they have to be ordered and sent by mail to the nearest 'motor office' (pardon my english, I have to improvise some times:)), takes days. Or borrow them from a workshop somewhere, requires them not to need them themselves. Anyway, start of next week, I should be up and running again. And looking forward to it!
 
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