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Just wondered if anyone has seen this before. My 93 Range Rover Classic has a tiny oil leak from the rear pan, where there is no obvious place to leak from. The pan is welded on. The filler plug is dry. It seems like the diff might be split or rust has gone right through. There is no denying the leak so will have to do something. Just wondered if this might be common at this age.

Thanks
 

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Check the seal, usually won't leak unless it's being driven. Spray down the 3rd member with brake clean, recheck in a few days. Sounds like the pinion seal has started to seep, it's 26 years old, things are gonna start to leak. Pinion is tilted slightly up, so as when the seal leaks fluid will run down from the front, along the bottom and settle on bottom of axle/3rd member housing, giving the appearance of a leaking/cracked differential housing.
 

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Check the seal, usually won't leak unless it's being driven. Spray down the 3rd member with brake clean, recheck in a few days. Sounds like the pinion seal has started to seep, it's 26 years old, things are gonna start to leak. Pinion is tilted slightly up, so as when the seal leaks fluid will run down from the front, along the bottom and settle on bottom of axle/3rd member housing, giving the appearance of a leaking/cracked differential housing.
the O/P is mentioning the housing it self, not the hogs head or seal. yes I have seen leaks on the housing thru tiny developed fissures, cracks, rust holes and incomplete welds. some can be patched with jbweld, others can be welded sealed. any way you go the area needs to be cleaned of rust and paint as well as dry from any oils. clean and monitor before deciding on repair procedure.
 

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drain oil, clean area and if possible repair weld. if welding is not an option use some kind of epoxy as discussed earlier, some marine oriented will be excellent as it has ground metal in it's mix. (not sure what is available in the UK, in the US we have marine text boat hull repair epoxy).
your axle housing of course has been rotted away by rust, worse case scenario you may need to replace complete housing and transfer all part or whole axle assembly, depending on how much work you want to do versus expense.

best of luck
 

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Looks like it's been in the sea! It could have been used for putting a boat in the water that would have exposed to to that environment.

You can get replacement cover pans for them through some of the UK independent LR parts suppliers. The old one can be cut out and replaced with that, but it would be much easier stripped out completely to do that.

If going to that level it may sway it to replace casing.

It's not that difficult a job to strip out on these, and you can then build up on bench to get everything sorted prior to install. About 1hr to remove, can replace original steel brake lines also if not already changed while it's out. If it
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys for the replies. I'm balancing a replacement verse a patch. I will probably try a patch and see how that goes, slightly worried if I patch it there will be multiple leaks very soon after.
 

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I would think a replacement
Would be the thing
As there is rusty
And then there is your rear end
Looks a little past rusty
 

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I don't have pics, but I've been there and done that by wire-brushing and etching clean as much rust as I could (which revealed and opened up a LOT more pinholes.....you may have adjacent areas that are very thin and ready to leak at any moment), then:

1. Painting the entire area with POR-15 to Kill the rust and stop it from recurring. 2 coats.
2. scuff up the POR-ed area with wire brush again, and usefiberglass cloth (2 layers) soaked in POR-15 to lay-up over the pinhole areas.Smooth fiberglass and let cure between plies.

This has worked well over the last 2 yrs and 10k miles. Theother thing I did under the whole truck was (very tediously) wire-brush every flakeof rust I could get to by hand, hose off everything to get loose dirt/rust off,then spray the entire underside including axles and springs with Fluid Film.Stuff really works; went all last winter thru a CT salted-road winter and thereis zero new rust evident anywhere. Will re-apply this summer, easier now afterthe initial rust-removal and cleaning.
 

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JB weld is fantastic stuff worked well for me. I had a slight oil weep. wire brushed down to reveal a small crack. cleaned and applied JBW two years ago. nothing since.(y)
 
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