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Discussion Starter #1
G'day,
I noticed some coolant on the carpet again. Very disappointing as they were only replace about 12 months ago after a gas install. I used the Cut Duct method to gain access to the o-rings and when i removed them one was deformed. So i replaced both and a new SS cap screw. Drove around for a couple of weeks. All good. Then more coolant on the carpet :cry: After some looking the coolant seems to be coming from behind the screw not the O-rings.
I think I will be up for a new matrix. On a RHD car does the heater box need to be removed or has anyone devised a way to replace it in place?
I am about 4 weeks away from leaving for a 10,000km trip to Darwin and the simpson desert so maybe its best to bypass the heater until i get back and can deal with it.
Thanks for all the posts in this forum. The first time the O-rings were replaced it cost me $450 by the local Indy as he installed the gas. The second time $4.50 for the O-rings and some help from this forum.

Regards
Andrew
 

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As long as you can get the same degree of access with the instrument panel and all the lower dash bits removed as we LHD owners can with the glove box and passenger air bag removed, I don't see why you can't do it as described on the main site. I'm talking about the method of cutting a slot in the under dash metal frame and bending the frame out of the way of the heater core just enough so you can slide it out. I just did this and it worked fine. I really hated to make a permanent cut in the dash like that, but it felt better than 20 hrs of labor to remove the entire dash and wiring harnesses running into the engine compartment. I used a floor jack to bend the frame back into place and pop riveted a metal bar across the cut to hold things back together.

http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetail ... rcore.html

Brett
 

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You might get lucky just by backing the screw out a bit.

My O rings were done about a month before I picked the car up and the dealer had cranked the screw very tight, cracking the plastic housing. I just played with the screw until I found a balance between taking the pressure off the screw( and housing) and not having the o rings leak.

So far not one drip and its been over a year.

Brad.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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It's possible you've cracked the heater core when you tightened up the allen head cap screws. It is imperative you do not over tighten them.

I've seen two cracked in the same place (one being mine). You'll see the crack is in the same position as your leak. That small hole to the right of the crack in my pic is the clamp bolt hole.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
p38arover said:
It's possible you've cracked the heater core when you tightened up the allen head cap screws. It is imperative you do not over tighten them.

I've seen two cracked in the same place (one being mine). You'll see the crack is in the same position as your leak. That small hole to the right of the crack in my pic is the clamp bolt hole.
Thanks for the reply guys.
I have backed the screw off a little and the flow has stopped to a very small drop.
Ron did you replace the heater matrix or use some stop leak. I have heard radiator stop leak has mix results. I am thinking of bypassing the heater in the engine bay and dealing with the leak when I get back from Darwin.
I have been quoted $1750 - $2200 to replace the matrix. I am undecided if I should pay the money or tackle the job myself.
Regards
Andrew
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I used some stop leak on mine and it's held good for over two years now. I'm sure eventually I'll need to do the job, but I'd prefer to put it off as long as possible.
 

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Hi Andrew,

I replaced the matrix on my UK RHD 4.6HSE a couple of years ago and it was not as difficult as I imagined. I had had previous problems with O rings and blend motors so was quite handy at removing the dash which I could accomplish in about 4 hours ''out and back in''. I think it would be well nigh impossible with the dash in situ on a RHD.
Unfortunately I didn't photograph my procedure so am relying on memory here.
Having removed the dash I then removed the bracket that supports the heater box at the front. This was to enable me to swivel the box just a little so that the matrix would slide out missing the bottom of the steering column. The matrix is quite long!
The frame below the steering column has 2 bolts (from memory) - the top is welded - one by the fuel cut off switch and the other just behind the foot rest (again from memory) and once removed you can bend the frame just enough to get the matrix out, having twisted the heater box as mentioned above. There is quite a bit of loom in this area and you will need to remove the clips to get it out the way.
Be careful sliding the new matrix in but it doesn't matter if you bend a couple of the fins.
Reassembly is just a reversal and I completed the whole job in a morning.
It would have cost me over £1000 at the local land Rover dealers so I was quite chuffed and no more leaks!

Good luck
Richard
 

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I pulled the dash top off as I coordinated the job with fitting a new dashtop and new blend and distribution flap motors.

See viewtopic.php?f=3&t=24550

I'm told the core can be changed in a RHD car without removing the dash - see that topic above.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I would pop a bit of stop leak in there, although only if your main radiator is in good condition as it can sometimes clog the small pipes.

Obviously you have a bit of access to the area, so could you get some epoxy resin in there if you can pinpoint a crack?

Dan
 
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