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Discussion Starter #1
I was told by a mechanic that my 2002 4.6 HSE has a head gasket leak and quoted my a price of $2800 to repair it. Should I shop around for a better deal or does that seem reasonable to you?

While I'm at it, my EAS system is leaking and am considering converting to a coil suspension. I was quoted $2400 to fix the EAS or convert to coils. It seems to me that the coil conversion should be the less expensive way to go. What are you thoughts on this?
Thanks,
Steve
 

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Hi and welcome to the site. A bit of a serious problem for a first post. Are you in the USA. $2,800 seems a bit much but if in for head gaskets has anthing else been mentioned like cam, lifters, rocker arms, 3 angle valve job, heads magnafluxed and shaved. Has the leak occurred because of an overheat or did it leak and then cook the engine or is the leak minor and has yet to cause an issue. Is it an oil leak or a water leak to the outside or inside of the block. On the EAS what is with it. Air springs are likely coming due {did ours 2 years ago] All else is sort of ok with a periodic fault. If you change airsprings yourself the best ones Arnott gen III's are 800 and change. Do compressor seal for less than $100. We got ours in NJ 2 years ago with failed eas and Dennis from Rover Renovations helped me do what needed to be done. When I picked it up the head gasket was leaking from the front left head to the outside. I drove it home {900 miles] and put some bar's stop leak in it and have deferred the gasket job so far. This allowed me to work on air suspension repairs. {I admit to the shoestring budget} I did quit cigarettes so some of those funds go to parts now. So if eas issues are obvious do these yourself and perhaps save the motorwork for a shop which will warranty the work and read all you can on here. Fill out details and keep us posted
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the quick reply, diff. Yes, I am in Arizona and my Rover just passed 113,000 miles. The mechanic said that water was leaking out the back side of the block (likely due to to the slow radiator fluid leaking from the heater o-rings that I just read about on this site... :shock: ). My wife drives the car and it did overheat once, but I never noticed anything major happening. I think I could get by with your idea of bar's stop leak for a bit while I work on the EAS system. I am also quitting cigarettes so that will help pay for the job!
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Steve. Thanks for the info. You do have some work to do. O-rings can be done by yourself as well. See details on this site. We have had wet carpet for a long time without becm issues but it can contribute to electrical issues so watch that point. Best to remove plastic covers under the seats and leave off {at least drivers side for eas manual control by jumper] until all really is well. Back to the Bar's. I put in 1 4oz bottle which was enough and has had no apparent ill effect to date. You are on your own on this as it is possible to have certain things get clogged, ie the rad, but it appears that only the earlier models had very small tubes which could clog easily. Read info carefully on this site. For example there is much written about our engines losing oil prime when doing an oil change if filter /oil not done in proper sequence. It was a holdover, I believe from earlier years, and will not affect the P38. I read and reread a lot before doing my first oil change and made sure that the new filter had an anti drain back valve. BTW our o-rings had probably just been done when we got ours. Someone had done the shortcut method but not quite as nicely done as on this site. Fortunately its non structural plastic.
 
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