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LEGACY VENDOR
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During my recalibration process, i couldn't understand why my big compressor didn't push up to 11 bars. It often trigger the 35Amp switch.
Today i found that my EAS dryer is dead : the lid do not seal anymore and i can feel some air escaping from there.

From my experience, this item should be replaced with the compressor rebuild. A leak like that can kill quickly any OEM compressor.
 

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Legacy Vendor
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Good point Flo. Replace the dessicant in the drier when you do a rebuild of the EAS Valve Block just to be sure. It is cheap and quite easy to do. Dennis at Rover Renovations sells this fairly cheap, I did mine last year as a precaution.

When you re-seal the dessicant chamber, use Some Vasoline or plumbers tape on the thread to ensure a good seal.

Cheers, Paul.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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Discussion Starter #3
PaulP38A said:
Good point Flo. Replace the dessicant in the drier when you do a rebuild of the EAS Valve Block just to be sure. It is cheap and quite easy to do. Dennis at Rover Renovations sells this fairly cheap, I did mine last year as a precaution.

When you re-seal the dessicant chamber, use Some Vasoline or plumbers tape on the thread to ensure a good seal.

Cheers, Paul.
Paul, i used Vasoline and it works great. Thanks
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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i'm a newbie to the P38, but i did follow the instructions on how to rebuild the eas block from another member from this site and it worked...coming from someone that has ZERO mechanic experience. Now i noticed my dryer is leaking air from top hose. i can't seem to find any information or instructions on replacing O-rings on this part. questions are: 1. can i just yank out the air hose to get to o-ring? 2. do i need to take part off to change both top and bottom orings? Any and all help is appreciated.

frankthetank
 
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