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‘16 HSE TD6 L494
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I own a 2016 L494 and will be swapping out the front and rear to upgrade the look to that of a 2018+. I’ve done this before, with a grand Cherokee to include the headlights (which was a major electrical modification) but it was a fun project. This is largely to show major modifications can be done relatively inexpensively if you have time or have been in an accident. Additionally, I will not be doing any flashy body kits, In my opinion Range Rovers should not have aftermarket body kits.

I’ve seen a few Similar threads, but they’re kinda lack luster, and furthermore have given bad gauge at times especially for the headlights and front bumper components. I fully intend to document everything I will be doing through this thread in a pretty detailed capacity.

Body work is a hobby of mine so most items I buy are used and sometimes were in an accident; this keeps the upfront price low. I’ll be including prices of what I’ve paid, the MSRP and offset cost. I’ll also include time spent repairing painting and fitting. Yes painting, I will be painting everything at home. You can in fact paint at home at achieve paint booth quality, more to follow on this. I won’t really double tap much of what powerful U.K. has already covered as they do a stand up job that needs no clarification.
 

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‘16 HSE TD6 L494
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38 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
286648

REAR END
Total spent: $2,183 w/paint

Breakdown:
Total MSRP: $5,303.57 w/out paint
Total parts spent: $2,133
Paint/cleaning/sanding/body work supplies (not included in final expenditure except paint): $300
Time spent: 20 hours est

Any item not listed below can be salvaged from existing fittings, panels or componentry.

PARTS USED:

Bumper (main) diagram item #1 Part Number LR098889
MSRP: $1,630.75
Price I paid: $150.00
Offset savings: $1,480.75
Notes: Slight repair, required cleaning, mild reshaping, and refinishing.

Bumper finisher (center, lower side trim left & right)
Part Number(s): LR109724, 109678 (R) ,109679 (L)
MSRP: $551.77
Price I paid: $242.00
Offset savings: $309.77
Notes: No notable body repair, purchased primed, needed paint.

Exhaust finisher (set) diagram item #21 Part Number LR104742(3)
MSRP (set): $699.36
Price I paid (set): $180.00
Offset savings: $519.36
Notes: Slight repair, required cleaning, mild reshaping, and refinishing.

Tow cover Part Number LR105079
MSRP: $432.93
Price I paid: $105.00
Offset savings: $327.93
Notes: bought new pre color matched

Tail lights (set):
MSRP: $2,107.00
Price I paid: $718.00
Offset savings: $1,389
Notes: These were plug-n-play and work well, they were purchased from motorfansclub-it on eBay. Be aware, mine came with notable structural imperfections from what looked like a drop, allowing moisture to come into the light. The seller compensated slightly but refused a return.

Spoiler/rear wing:
Land Rover part number #LR105079
MSRP: $432.93
Price I paid: $ undisclosed
Offset savings: $N/A
Notes: Bought locally from a fellow forum member (why I’m politely not disclosing the price I paid). See sub post for details.

optional

I added an OEM tow bar to mine, part number DK6M-19D522-BC
MSRP: $? Can’t find it
Price I paid: $300

Notes:
First and foremost, I did have to cut my exhaust tips off to allow the new finishers to go on, this is due to my L494 being a diesel and they’re slightly angled down, for gas owners this may be avoided but I cannot confirm. Diesel owners need to cut.

I’m a big fan of the autobiography lettering, I originally purchased a set off eBay for approx $29 from China and they were crap, I bought POWERFUL UKs set and those are perfect, I love them and totally worth the money.

  • I used corris gray and Santorini Black color-match rattle can base-coat from eBay shop colormyauto1. They came out very well and used 2K clear for the topcoat; a very caustic coating but results are unmatched for a rattle can clear coat. I also color matched my rear trim to match the Corris gray bumper finishers which I think came out very well.
 

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2016-2018 Range Rover Sport
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98 Posts
Thanks for the breakdown . I have a 2016 Autobiography and I will be changing for the dual exhaust rear bumper.
Did the rear removal 2016 and the new 2018 fit exactly (bolt for bolt) all 6 sensors too, with no modifications
 

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‘16 HSE TD6 L494
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38 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
The rear bumper was pretty straight forward. Now starts level 2:

Front bumper diagram item #1 part number LR113284
MSRP: $1,975.08
Paid: $300.00
Notes: It had been in an accident requiring filling, dent repair, scratch repair and a lot of bondo, but all tabs were intact!! After 5 hours I finally have it smooth and ready for primer sealing. Purchased @ local body shop in SOCAL.
285371

Repairs featured above, sealed featured below
285493
Notes: The headlight washer caps are a different size, longer in width than that of the 14-17’ by approx 3/4’. Sourcing those parts will be very difficult however new OEM replacements are $30 dollars for the set which isn’t awful, albeit unforeseen.
 

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‘16 HSE TD6 L494
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the breakdown . I have a 2016 Autobiography and I will be changing for the dual exhaust rear bumper.
Did the rear removal 2016 and the new 2018 fit exactly (bolt for bolt) all 6 sensors too, with no modifications
No major modification was needed besides trimming the exhaust tips off, the sensor holes on the 2018 are about 1mm wider in diameter on the finisher than that of the 2016, once in place from the exterior the gap essentially unrecognizable however to decrease the minor movement from the gap I used a small amount of removable epoxy to keep them in place. Everything else fit perfectly and is very straightforward. The main electrical harness for all the sensors is just below the drivers side rear tail light, I would disconnect that first and reconnect it last. It’s accessible with the tail light removed. Also, I highly recommend removing the entire bumper as one unit off the vehicle swapping all the fittings lights sensor etc to your new bumper and placing it on as one component, this allows for a much faster fitting.

It’s a great mod, love the new rear!
I wish I had chose to document the rear like I will be doing the front, so I could give better pics.
Will you be going the SVR route or standard finish?
 

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2016-2018 Range Rover Sport
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98 Posts
I watched a youtube video showing how to remove the rear bumper.. I was looking for the SVR rear dual exhaust
tailpies . so the whole bumper is 1 piece.. I will change the single to double tips black
 

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‘16 HSE TD6 L494
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38 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Fender “apron” part #LR100544(5)
MSRP: $399.18
Price I paid: $100.00
Notes: needed refinished due to scratches and wrong color code, purchased SOCAL junkyard.
285478


To accomplish this facelift the fender aprons do need to be replaced. The 2018 lights are in fact an entirely different shape and the 2018 front bumper will not fit the headlights of that of the 2014-17’ .
Some posts have said they; those choosing to start this endeavor, are just swapping the bumper...seems a bit extemporaneous and maybe an ad-hoc idea without having the part in front of themselves. The entirety of the bumpers top would need to be trimmed approx 1 inch to include the grille bevel as well as where the bumper connects to the fender aprons, however that entire location is where a large amount of retaining fasteners are located so trimming the bumper in any fashion would result in most likely subpar looks and a litany of structural unreliabilities. I opted to purchase the fenders and refinished them. Took approx 2 hours of sanding, filling, priming and primer sealing in preparation for new paint.

285480


update post Painting

286650
 

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131 Posts
Great information. Thank you providing the part information.

Does the 2014-17 rear main bumper not fit with the :
Bumper finisher diagram item #19 Part Number: LR109724
Tow cover diagram item #22 Part Number LR109723

The overall outline of the parts appears the same in the drawings As the 14-17 pieces.
 

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‘16 HSE TD6 L494
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Discussion Starter #9
Great information. Thank you providing the part information.

Does the 2014-17 rear main bumper not fit with the :
Bumper finisher diagram item #19 Part Number: LR109724
Tow cover diagram item #22 Part Number LR109723

The overall outline of the parts appears the same in the drawings As the 14-17 pieces.
For starters, sorry, there were errors in my parts numbers specifically regarding the two you had asked about, I’ve edited the post to be correct and are accurate above now.
But to answer your question, no. They do not fit. The 14-17’ main bumper assembly has areas of indentation and annunciation molded into the plastic that look not dissimilar to the 18+ however post 18 those attributes are physically separate components, additionally they’re different sizes.

The bumpers aren’t structurally very different and any part that I didn’t list can be cannibalized from an older model; not every 2018 component is needed, just the ones I listed.
 

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131 Posts
No worries, I appreciate the leg work you did. Your information pointed me In the right direction. I saw In the drawings it looked like with the early bumper was a single piece but was hoping it was poor documentation. I was able to find all the pieces easily enough except the left and right trim pieces around the exhaust finishers.

I’m sure ill be able to dig them up in due time. Looking forward to see how your front goes. Best of luck.
 

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Great thread!!! Glad to see others retrofitting. I was going to get a set of the 18 tail lights on eBay for $525 from China. Wasn’t sure till now if OEM was plug and play or needed a retrofit harness. Thanks 👍🏽
 

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‘16 HSE TD6 L494
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38 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Spoiler/:
Electrical harness 100%, Antenna lines 100%, Washer Jet 100%, is Narvick black (my vehicles Santorini) but blends well with the rest of the items. Notable deep scratches on both passenger, driver side and top.
285736

⬆ @ Pick up
⬇ After wash, degreasing and IPA rinse.
285729

After around 10 hours of correction, I was able to lift (level) 90% .approx with 400-800-1500-2500–3Kg trizact and buffing. I decided to not paint this piece as in my opinion I was going to squeeze a whole lot more apples and get basically the same amount of juice. I’ll settle for 90% till the first time someone asks about the scratches haha...
285730

On vehicle:
285732
 

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2014 Range Rover Sport AB
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Great job that looks amazing, so when are you coming over the UK to do mine?
 
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No major modification was needed besides trimming the exhaust tips off, the sensor holes on the 2018 are about 1mm wider in diameter on the finisher than that of the 2016, once in place from the exterior the gap essentially unrecognizable however to decrease the minor movement from the gap I used a small amount of removable epoxy to keep them in place. Everything else fit perfectly and is very straightforward. The main electrical harness for all the sensors is just below the drivers side rear tail light, I would disconnect that first and reconnect it last. It’s accessible with the tail light removed. Also, I highly recommend removing the entire bumper as one unit off the vehicle swapping all the fittings lights sensor etc to your new bumper and placing it on as one component, this allows for a much faster fitting.

It’s a great mod, love the new rear!
I wish I had chose to document the rear like I will be doing the front, so I could give better pics.
Will you be going the SVR route or standard finish?
The headlights 2018? Did you install which connectors did you use? Where did you get them? Thx
 

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‘16 HSE TD6 L494
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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
The headlights 2018? Did you install which connectors did you use? Where did you get them? Thx
I haven’t started the headlight retrofit yet as I’m still sourcing front end parts, rest assured, I’ll update when I get there, I’ll still fill in the thread with my intent.

The fog lights (from my best guess) seem to use the same existing connection and power consumption. So in theory, no significant electrical modification will be needed, updates regarding that to follow.

There are couple routes for the headlights I’m still navigating, but this is all a very measure 5 times fit once maneuver. For context, I will likely build the loom myself and have it as a inline loom adapter plugging into the existing connection (16’) and ending in the new headlight connection (+18) essentially constructing a plug-and-play style adapter, (sans programming). Connectors are seldom if ever proprietary; I’ve found the most absolutely obscure electrical connections on eBay; expect heavy details in thread regarding headlights. For headlight programming again I have considered a few routes, but I’ll need to conduct some experiments to further expound upon them.

There are a few companies I’ve seen making headlight retrofit programmers but at a very costly measure $1,200-$4k is beyond what I want to pay and without having knowledge of how it functions, a warranty; or if it might just be a scam. There was a company in England that I spoke with and I became very suspect of it being a scam. There is an Italian company that seems promising and I may go that route, but I’d first like to experiment to see what exactly is needed.
 

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I haven’t started the headlight retrofit yet as I’m still sourcing front end parts, rest assured, I’ll update when I get there, I’ll still fill in the thread with my intent.

The fog lights (from my best guess) seem to use the same existing connection and power consumption so in theory no significant electrical modification is needed.

There are couple routes for the headlights I’m still navigating, but this is all a very measure 5 times fit once maneuver. For context, I will likely build the loom myself and have it as a inline loom adapter plugging into the existing connection (16’) and ending in the new headlight connection (+18) Connectors are seldom if ever proprietary; I’ve found the most absolutely obscure electrical connections on eBay; expect details in thread. For headlight programming again I have considered a few routes, but I’ll need to conduct some experiments to further expound upon them.
Ok cool the fog lights are different connector s. I was doing doing mode with 2016 OEM HEADLIGHTS AND FOUND OUT the connectors are different.
I haven’t started the headlight retrofit yet as I’m still sourcing front end parts, rest assured, I’ll update when I get there, I’ll still fill in the thread with my intent.

The fog lights (from my best guess) seem to use the same existing connection and power consumption. So in theory, no significant electrical modification will be needed, updates regarding that to follow.

There are couple routes for the headlights I’m still navigating, but this is all a very measure 5 times fit once maneuver. For context, I will likely build the loom myself and have it as a inline loom adapter plugging into the existing connection (16’) and ending in the new headlight connection (+18) essentially constructing a plug-and-play style adapter, (sans programming). Connectors are seldom if ever proprietary; I’ve found the most absolutely obscure electrical connections on eBay; expect heavy details in thread regarding headlights. For headlight programming again I have considered a few routes, but I’ll need to conduct some experiments to further expound upon them.

There are a few companies I’ve seen making headlight retrofit programmers but at a very costly measure $1,200-$4k is beyond what I want to pay and without having knowledge of how it functions, a warranty; or if it might just be a scam. There was a company in England that I spoke with and I became very suspect of it being a scam. There is an Italian company that seems promising and I may go that route, but I’d first like to experiment to see what exactly is needed.
ok gotcha thx. I was on the process of doing my front but decided to go with SVR WITHOUT FOGS but the connector is different for fogs too.
285856
 

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2014 Range Rover Sport V6 Supercharged HSE
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I haven’t started the headlight retrofit yet as I’m still sourcing front end parts, rest assured, I’ll update when I get there, I’ll still fill in the thread with my intent.

The fog lights (from my best guess) seem to use the same existing connection and power consumption. So in theory, no significant electrical modification will be needed, updates regarding that to follow.

There are couple routes for the headlights I’m still navigating, but this is all a very measure 5 times fit once maneuver. For context, I will likely build the loom myself and have it as a inline loom adapter plugging into the existing connection (16’) and ending in the new headlight connection (+18) essentially constructing a plug-and-play style adapter, (sans programming). Connectors are seldom if ever proprietary; I’ve found the most absolutely obscure electrical connections on eBay; expect heavy details in thread regarding headlights. For headlight programming again I have considered a few routes, but I’ll need to conduct some experiments to further expound upon them.

There are a few companies I’ve seen making headlight retrofit programmers but at a very costly measure $1,200-$4k is beyond what I want to pay and without having knowledge of how it functions, a warranty; or if it might just be a scam. There was a company in England that I spoke with and I became very suspect of it being a scam. There is an Italian company that seems promising and I may go that route, but I’d first like to experiment to see what exactly is needed.
My suggestion is to purchase aftermarket 2018+ style headlights, as they are made to fit 2014-2017 models with direct plug and play. You can pick them up for a couple hundred dollars online, no need for OEM.
 
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