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Discussion Starter #1
Hello

I am active on many forums for my other cars and noticed not many DIY or “get dirty” enthusiasts on here.....or maybe there are ? I guess many owners have warranty, I do too but I still like to do my own diagnosis and work when I can. I feel the dealer does more harm than good (usually).

I don’t have much free time but in my limited time working and learning about car mechanics and systems is a hobby. I noticed the forum here needs more DIY posts and discussion.

To start I changed the oil yesterday on my l405 lwb sc. I used liqu moly 0w-20 LR tec (apparently special made for JLR engines) oil. I bought the filter from dealer and it took 45 min to change. I noticed before my engine sounded a little rough and would idle high very long. After oil change with liqu moly engine sounds smooth and cold start idle has been reduced. Also ticking is non existent before I would hear often. I am very alert and check often due to the timing chain issues from the older generation.

My second task is a squeaking groaning noise I have. I have a thread on it here. I’m thinking it’s the sway bar bushings. It’s cheap to fix so I think I will tackle this rather than use warranty.

My third task is tpms calibration. For some reason the truck stopped detecting the tpms says malfunction when it has tpms. This I’m not too annoyed about but will get around to it eventually.

I would like to hear your guys adventure and tips/stories about working on this truck. It would be useful for future reference and future owners years to come
 

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Uhhhh w84it And myself are the only 2 guys on here with diys and mods. Everyone else is bone stock or rims wheels upgrades and that’s it. Sorry to disappoint.
 

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There are a lot of DIY guys on the L322 side of this forum...I don't think the L405 has been around long enough. Most L405 owners on here are still under warranty.
 

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Hey all! Im J from PHX AZ!

I recently bought a 2014 LWB RRV8SC. Drove it back from Texas and it ran superb! I have 79K miles with no warranty and I plan to tackle as many issues the car presents myself... currently looking for a good warranty but not sure if I want to pull the trigger.

I order the SpecialTech LR 0w20 oil from FCP euro along with the oil filter and cabin air filter and will be doing that service when they arrive! Planning on using a mityvac and sucking the oil out through the top!

I vinyl wrapped the trims and dipped the logos and grille black! Below are some pictures!

Also, I hardwired a Escort 9500CI radar and laser jammer system which was kinda fun!

Current problems: rear two windows do not work, tiny front end cluck on hard brake at slow speeds (assuming bushing issue). Slowly making time to work those out.

I also wanted to do the ZF transmission service around 80K miles and replace all the diff/transfercase fluids!

Here she issssssssssssssssssss! Glad to see some DIYers, I have been looking and looking on the L405 forum for people who DIY and are enthusiast but don't see too much haha.

57954632357__6BA50DCA-17AE-4641-AA75-C25B299A06FA.JPG IMG_5102.jpg RenderedImage.JPG 57955728577__C5181455-0E7D-4BCC-AC25-6AE718AFBA89.JPG IMG_5018.jpg IMG_5699.jpg IMG_5838.jpg
 

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I do DIY items on mine. I pulled a lot of the dash apart to install an integrated radar detector.
Can you post some info on the radar detector you installed?
 

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I installed a Radenso RCM. The front radar is located in the top center of the grill. I got a 2018 style grill and after a little trimming, the detector for perfect.

The rear receiver is mounted behind the plastic near the trailer hitch.

The screen is located where the center console meets the HVAC control panel.

The CPU and speaker are located under the steering wheel behind the kick panel.

I am VERY happy with the performance and cleanliness of the install.
 

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I done a bunch of little things outside of regular oil changes...

1) Added SVAuto mufflers
2) Changed out the door handles
3) Removed front bumper and added different side grilles
4) Added a Velocity AP ECU tune
5) Got rid of the auto start/stop
6) Added a LED light bar behind the grille
7) Recently changed out rotors and brakes!
 

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I installed a Radenso RCM. The front radar is located in the top center of the grill. I got a 2018 style grill and after a little trimming, the detector for perfect.

The rear receiver is mounted behind the plastic near the trailer hitch.

The screen is located where the center console meets the HVAC control panel.

The CPU and speaker are located under the steering wheel behind the kick panel.

I am VERY happy with the performance and cleanliness of the install.
Thanks for the info...I might consider doing this someday.
 

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What year is yours? I've been trying to find out how to the disable the auto start/stop feature on my 2016.

Do you have any pics of your mods?

I done a bunch of little things outside of regular oil changes...

1) Added SVAuto mufflers
2) Changed out the door handles
3) Removed front bumper and added different side grilles
4) Added a Velocity AP ECU tune
5) Got rid of the auto start/stop
6) Added a LED light bar behind the grille
7) Recently changed out rotors and brakes!
 

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The only time I won't perform a DYI repair is if the tools cost more than the service itself, otherwise I tool up and make the repair. I don't waste my time with mods, the car is good as is.
 

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Long time L322 owner and did a fair amount of mods and DYI. Agreed that this side of the forum is light on the DYI because of the warranty factor. My mods so far has been limited to just bolt on cosmetic items. As the entry price comes down, more and more members will jump on over.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Finally installed the facelift taillights after re pinning them. Also got the autobiography handles, SVA gear knob and arm rest adjusters, SVA cig lighter outlets and SVA autobiography door pedals.

All was easy except the autobiography door handles. The instructions said T20 had my guy doing half the work he ended up stripping the screw on driver handle. So I got 95% of them installed. It’s a T25 btw. I think I’ll wrap it the top and bottom so it matches.🤬

Might deal with the screw when my ultimate edition speakers arrive and I need to take the doorcard off.

Up next is the SVA chrome tailgate and facelift steering touch buttons. My SVA door emblems arrived today as well. Was ready to do the rolls Royce fiber star headliner but my headliner is gray. Debating on doing a full suede headliner and the stars 🤔

Service side will be doing a full oil change again with liqu moly JLR 0w-20. Engine runs much quieter and smoother ever since I started using this oil. Will also service the front and rear differentials.

I notice ever since deleting my resonators I drive more aggressively in S mode. The transmission sometimes feel jerky and revs really high. Might do a full fluid and filter change before I take it to the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
do you have the part number for the SVA mufflers? I’ve been looking how much did they set you back?

I’ve also seen a couple of L405 with SVA style tips it looks OK for what I’d imagine be a fraction of the cost. The SVA tips don’t really look impressive anyways and look tilted/slanted even on OEM SVA trucks I’ve seen.
I done a bunch of little things outside of regular oil changes...

1) Added SVAuto mufflers
2) Changed out the door handles
3) Removed front bumper and added different side grilles
4) Added a Velocity AP ECU tune
5) Got rid of the auto start/stop
6) Added a LED light bar behind the grille
7) Recently changed out rotors and brakes!
 

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Can someone tell me if the armrest adjusters (SVA) are same on 2017 as 2013? I watched the Powerful UK demo on Youtube on their 2013 Vogue, but inside of my 2017 seem different...
 

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do you have the part number for the SVA mufflers? I’ve been looking how much did they set you back?

I’ve also seen a couple of L405 with SVA style tips it looks OK for what I’d imagine be a fraction of the cost. The SVA tips don’t really look impressive anyways and look tilted/slanted even on OEM SVA trucks I’ve seen.
parts No.

S LLR073397 N/STK FINISHER - EXH
S LLR073398 N/STK FINISHER - EXH
S LLR077696 N/STK MUFFLER - REAR
S LLR077695 N/STK MUFFLER - REAR
S LLR077700 N/STK CLAMP - EXHAUS

@

Duckworth
Racecourse Garage, Willingham Road, Market Rasen, Lincolnshire LN8 3RE
Tel: +44 1673 842101
Parts Direct Tel: + 41 673 844722 ask for Dan - he is the guy in charge :)
Fax: +44 1673 844410

Emails: [email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Can someone tell me if the armrest adjusters (SVA) are same on 2017 as 2013? I watched the Powerful UK demo on Youtube on their 2013 Vogue, but inside of my 2017 seem different...
I believe they are the same. For facelift it’s different for the 2018+ model.

thanks for the links for the SV mufflers Wlee. I think based on the cost I’m going to just do a oem 18 rear bumper with the SVA facelift tips. It’ll come out cheaper in the end
 

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I’ll add myself to the list of DIYers... picked up a new 2019 HSE last month (moved from a 2017 RRSport) and rather quickly took to a few little projects which were items I had done on the Sport previously so I was fairly comfortable tackling them.

First was a charging stand in one of the cup holders since I use Apple CarPlay quite a bit and can’t stand my phone just laying around.

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Doing it this time was definitely easier - was able to pop out the usb/sim unit just in front of the cooler box which allowed me to fish the charging wire down and under the center storage beneath the cup holders and pulled through where the usb power outlet is down there - then was able to make a small hole in one of the rubber “grip” bits in the cup holder itself to fish get the wire through and the base sits in place by pressure. I made sure to leave a suitable amount of excess wire in the lower storage area so the cup holders can still be moved forward all the way without trouble and the wire is thin enough that it doesn’t get caught or bind anything up - and of course it's low profile so that when not in use, the cup holder can be closed without issue.

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The only “modification” needed was two little notches next to the usb outlet in the lower storage space and next to the usb/sim unit as well so that the wire wouldn’t be pinched when both were put back into place. Have to say in terms of usability, this is by far my favourite mod as it’s used every time I’m in the vehicle.

Next was swapping out the front grille and lower trim as well as the tailgate trim for black - this was the quickest of the modifications as everything is held with pressure clips of one sort or another and just had to be popped off and replaced with the new pieces. Definitely changes the appearance of the vehicle and love the look.

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The last and most involved was front and rear dash cams - I reused the same equipment I had in the Sport and initially did the front first since that was easier. It’s mounted on the driver’s side of the rear view mirror and I think blends in very well... unless you’re looking for it, most people won’t even notice it and it doesn’t affect view out the windshield since it’s quite compact.

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I was initially concerned about the backup battery pack as I had it in the empty storage space under the center arm rest in the Sport but as the new vehicle has the cooler box, I wasn’t sure where to place it. Ultimately I opted to put it in the upper glovebox where it fits well and likewise has the benefit of a power outlet right there. The power wire from the cam is tucked into the headliner to the driver’s side door then down the A-pillar, under the dash to the passenger side and then up into the upper glove box where it plugs into the battery pack. Similar to when I had installed it in the Sport, I did remove the A-pillar trim to make sure the wire for power (and also the one that goes to the rear cam) were routed behind the side airbags.

As for the rear cam, that had me most worried since the previous Sport install was quite challenging as the interior trim panel on that vehicle couldn’t be removed... luckily though on the full size, it was possible to pop off the interior trim panel (again pressure clips). So once I had the wire run the length of the vehicle it’s then fished through one of the two weather proof conduits that you see at the top of the opening when the tailgate is open. From there it comes through near the support/hinge mechanism, runs down the outside edge of the tailgate (behind the removable black trim piece) basically next to the support strut, then goes through the small opening where there’s a rubber gasket and wire already going in - which brings the cable back “inside” into the area pretty much behind the license plate. With the interior trim panel of the tailgate popped and the round sensor pulled out (which sits at the bottom of the rear window - not sure what that's for to be honest) I was able to pull the end of the cable through the hole where the sensor is mounted and then re-seat the sensor - there’s just enough space that I didn’t need to make the opening any larger but making sure the cable was positioned just so as I pushed the sensor back into that opening was key to getting everything to fit. After that, it was as simple as plugging the wire into the cam and mounting it on the rear glass.

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The nice part is that from inside, partly due to the interior trim angling down toward the rear glass, the cam is hidden and doesn’t affect the view at all when looking in the rear view mirror. Because of the tint on the vehicle, the rear cam is also very hard to see from outside unless lighting is just right.
 
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