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Hello all,

I have a 2014 RR SCV8 LWB. It has the electronic rear diff lock. Dynamic suspension.

I just hit 80K miles and just did an oil change/airfilter/cabin air filter service.

I want to change out the differential, transfercase, and transmission fluids. Anyone do this before? I know the fluid (ZF LG 8) for the transmission but do not know the best recommended fluids for the diff and transfer case. Any recommendations? Any tips or know-how from people who's done this service before?

Thanks!
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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26 Posts
You could go to British Atlantic or FCP Euro. I would recommend Genuine Land Rover Fluids. There are two huge Hex or 1/2 Square bolts that you loosen. I recommend unbolting the fill hole first. Then get the drain pan ready. Take a piece of cardboard. about 15inches wide and 9 inches long and make a U out of it so it wont splash on anything when you take the drain bolt off. once the fluid comes out and only dripping. Wipe the whole with a lint free rag. The new Bolt should have thread sealant on it already. then the fill process is fun. the first time i did it i didn't have a cap with a long tube sticking out of it. you can make it using a drill bit and a piece of transparent flex piping from home depot. drill the cap of the fluid. Obviously not still attached to the fluid. clean the cap of plastic debris throughly. stick the piping about 1/2 inch to 3/4 inches in and screw it back on to the new bottle of fluid. the idea is to have the bottle higher than the transfer case to gravity feed it back in. once the fluid is filled to the brim where is dripping out. it full and you can plug it back with the new fill plug that has thread sealant. Same goes for the Diffs.

**** Before you even start with the Trans. You need some kind of diagnostic tool that can give you an accurate trans temp. Also while doing the 2 second fill (after the first with the Trans Cold) . Temp must be at 30-35 C. During the semi final and final check the temp must be at 40C. Temperature of the Trans not the Engine!! If you do not feel comfortable doing this, I highly recommend getting an experienced mechanic to do this that has experience with ZF transmissions. Lastly only use ZF approved fluids. This trans runs at almost 6000 for the part plus 4000+ to install at a dealer.

Transmission is basically the same. but you need to buy a new pan since the ZP trans has the filter built into the plastic pan. drain plug is at the bottom of the pan. but again first undo the fill plug. drain the fluids. it will start to drip. at that point, you can undo all of the bolts except the two on either side of the transmission towards the end of the pan facing the engine. use a plastic scraper and use it to separate the pan from the trans body. You do not want to use a metal one as the risk to scar the matting surface. when you separate the pan, there WILL be extra fluid. get the pan positioned while you undo the last two bolts. the pan needs to come straight down as to not brake the tube that goes through the mechatronics. clean the mating surface and align the gasket, add a bit of fluid to the O ring on the filter, pop the new pan on and bolt down using the torque specs. same as the gear oil you need to gravity feed the new fluid. it will only take half or maybe a little more. You will need to get the transmission to 30-35 C to start filling again. Fill until you get a steady stream of fluid coming out. bolt down the filler plug until snug. while holding the brake down. run down the selector, stopping at ever gear and holding for a couple of seconds. With the transmission temp at about 40C open the fill plug and if you get a stream of fluid coming out your good close up the trans at torque spec. if not refill and again go through the gears. Remember temp cannot be more than 40C.

Have fun. Gear oils smells great at 80K.
 

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I've replace both diff, transfer box and transmission pan on my LR3, and I've just replaced the transfer case fluid on my 2014 L405.
They were all straightforward expect for the transmission pan on the LR3 was a PITA, needed to jack up the engine/transmission to clear the filter neck. I haven't looked into the L405 transmission pan but hopefully it's an easier access.
I'm at 55k miles and now looking into replacing the diffs and transmission fluid. I'm OCD on fluids, cheap insurance.

To measure the temperature I used GAP IID tool, it's a must-have if you DIY a lot.
Make sure you use LR OEM fluid for diff and TC, and ZF lifeguard 8 for transmission. They might be a few bucks extra but will save you potential problems down the way.
 

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I've replace both diff, transfer box and transmission pan on my LR3, and I've just replaced the transfer case fluid on my 2014 L405.
They were all straightforward expect for the transmission pan on the LR3 was a PITA, needed to jack up the engine/transmission to clear the filter neck. I haven't looked into the L405 transmission pan but hopefully it's an easier access.
I'm at 55k miles and now looking into replacing the diffs and transmission fluid. I'm OCD on fluids, cheap insurance.

To measure the temperature I used GAP IID tool, it's a must-have if you DIY a lot.
Make sure you use LR OEM fluid for diff and TC, and ZF lifeguard 8 for transmission. They might be a few bucks extra but will save you potential problems down the way.
Which is the transfer case fluid for the L405? I need to service my differential and transfer case aswell
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Hello all,

I have a 2014 RR SCV8 LWB. It has the electronic rear diff lock. Dynamic suspension.

I just hit 80K miles and just did an oil change/airfilter/cabin air filter service.

I want to change out the differential, transfercase, and transmission fluids. Anyone do this before? I know the fluid (ZF LG 8) for the transmission but do not know the best recommended fluids for the diff and transfer case. Any recommendations? Any tips or know-how from people who's done this service before?

Thanks!
Why do you want to do all of these fluid changes?

If the transmission fluid has not been serviced since new, its DEFINITELY overdue. Should have been done at 62,400 mi/100k km. Be certain to only use ZF Lifeguard 8 and a genuine ZF filter. Very easy to do, make certain to follow technical procedures for checking fluid level at 35-40C fluid temp. If you don't have the diagnostic tool, a quality IR gauge will work.

Transfer case fluid is inspect-only at 94k mi/150k km's. It will likely be discolored and need to be serviced. Takes 2L of LR fluid. The diffs should be inspected at same time. They are very rarely in need of servicing. If you do ALOT of off roading and have rear locker, I've seen that fluid slightly dark and thus in need of servicing. I've yet to see a single LR4, RRS(L320/L494) or RR(L322/L405) front diff need servicing before the 10 year time limit, regardless of mileage. Just open the fill port and take a sample with syringe extractor. If fluid is light amber, does not foam or bubble when agitated, no need to service.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Why do you want to do all of these fluid changes?

If the transmission fluid has not been serviced since new, its DEFINITELY overdue. Should have been done at 62,400 mi/100k km. Be certain to only use ZF Lifeguard 8 and a genuine ZF filter. Very easy to do, make certain to follow technical procedures for checking fluid level at 35-40C fluid temp. If you don't have the diagnostic tool, a quality IR gauge will work.

Transfer case fluid is inspect-only at 94k mi/150k km's. It will likely be discolored and need to be serviced. Takes 2L of LR fluid. The diffs should be inspected at same time. They are very rarely in need of servicing. If you do ALOT of off roading and have rear locker, I've seen that fluid slightly dark and thus in need of servicing. I've yet to see a single LR4, RRS(L320/L494) or RR(L322/L405) front diff need servicing before the 10 year time limit, regardless of mileage. Just open the fill port and take a sample with syringe extractor. If fluid is light amber, does not foam or bubble when agitated, no need to service.
Why do I want to renew the fluids on my Rover? Because it's a part of preventative maintenance...

I did the transfer case and differential fluids at 80K as mentioned on the JRL service guide for my 2014 L405. It's not 94K for the L405s, it's drain and refill BOTH transfer case and diff fluids at 80,000 miles.

The transmission I was a bit overdue but I just replaced it and it was fairly clean. I can sleep better at night knowing it has fresh fluid in it though.

The front diff fluid was definitely darkened at 80K, I would recommend everyone to change it atleast at 80K and every 40-50K miles onwards.

Cheap but important services.
 

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2013-2015 Range Rover MkIV / L405
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I did my trans fluids/filter, transfer case and both differentials at 50K. Like jpatel says, its peace of mind. Kind of like changing oil every 4-5K. These services are relatively cheap and may prevent a much larger problem somewhere down the line.
 

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How much differential fluid do you need to do the L405 diff oil change?

I know that you need two bottles of the special transfer case fluid but can’t find how much diff oil to purchase. Thanks in advance.
 

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What differential oil (and how much quantity) do I need for the front diffs?

I have the rear diff oil now figured out, along with transfer case.
 

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What differential oil (and how much quantity) do I need for the front diffs?

I have the rear diff oil now figured out, along with transfer case.
I was able to get my answers by reading my manual. Page with details attached is below if it helps others:

 
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