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Hello all,

I have a 2014 RR SCV8 LWB. It has the electronic rear diff lock. Dynamic suspension.

I just hit 80K miles and just did an oil change/airfilter/cabin air filter service.

I want to change out the differential, transfercase, and transmission fluids. Anyone do this before? I know the fluid (ZF LG 8) for the transmission but do not know the best recommended fluids for the diff and transfer case. Any recommendations? Any tips or know-how from people who's done this service before?

Thanks!
 

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You could go to British Atlantic or FCP Euro. I would recommend Genuine Land Rover Fluids. There are two huge Hex or 1/2 Square bolts that you loosen. I recommend unbolting the fill hole first. Then get the drain pan ready. Take a piece of cardboard. about 15inches wide and 9 inches long and make a U out of it so it wont splash on anything when you take the drain bolt off. once the fluid comes out and only dripping. Wipe the whole with a lint free rag. The new Bolt should have thread sealant on it already. then the fill process is fun. the first time i did it i didn't have a cap with a long tube sticking out of it. you can make it using a drill bit and a piece of transparent flex piping from home depot. drill the cap of the fluid. Obviously not still attached to the fluid. clean the cap of plastic debris throughly. stick the piping about 1/2 inch to 3/4 inches in and screw it back on to the new bottle of fluid. the idea is to have the bottle higher than the transfer case to gravity feed it back in. once the fluid is filled to the brim where is dripping out. it full and you can plug it back with the new fill plug that has thread sealant. Same goes for the Diffs.

**** Before you even start with the Trans. You need some kind of diagnostic tool that can give you an accurate trans temp. Also while doing the 2 second fill (after the first with the Trans Cold) . Temp must be at 30-35 C. During the semi final and final check the temp must be at 40C. Temperature of the Trans not the Engine!! If you do not feel comfortable doing this, I highly recommend getting an experienced mechanic to do this that has experience with ZF transmissions. Lastly only use ZF approved fluids. This trans runs at almost 6000 for the part plus 4000+ to install at a dealer.

Transmission is basically the same. but you need to buy a new pan since the ZP trans has the filter built into the plastic pan. drain plug is at the bottom of the pan. but again first undo the fill plug. drain the fluids. it will start to drip. at that point, you can undo all of the bolts except the two on either side of the transmission towards the end of the pan facing the engine. use a plastic scraper and use it to separate the pan from the trans body. You do not want to use a metal one as the risk to scar the matting surface. when you separate the pan, there WILL be extra fluid. get the pan positioned while you undo the last two bolts. the pan needs to come straight down as to not brake the tube that goes through the mechatronics. clean the mating surface and align the gasket, add a bit of fluid to the O ring on the filter, pop the new pan on and bolt down using the torque specs. same as the gear oil you need to gravity feed the new fluid. it will only take half or maybe a little more. You will need to get the transmission to 30-35 C to start filling again. Fill until you get a steady stream of fluid coming out. bolt down the filler plug until snug. while holding the brake down. run down the selector, stopping at ever gear and holding for a couple of seconds. With the transmission temp at about 40C open the fill plug and if you get a stream of fluid coming out your good close up the trans at torque spec. if not refill and again go through the gears. Remember temp cannot be more than 40C.

Have fun. Gear oils smells great at 80K.
 

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I've replace both diff, transfer box and transmission pan on my LR3, and I've just replaced the transfer case fluid on my 2014 L405.
They were all straightforward expect for the transmission pan on the LR3 was a PITA, needed to jack up the engine/transmission to clear the filter neck. I haven't looked into the L405 transmission pan but hopefully it's an easier access.
I'm at 55k miles and now looking into replacing the diffs and transmission fluid. I'm OCD on fluids, cheap insurance.

To measure the temperature I used GAP IID tool, it's a must-have if you DIY a lot.
Make sure you use LR OEM fluid for diff and TC, and ZF lifeguard 8 for transmission. They might be a few bucks extra but will save you potential problems down the way.
 
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