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I had to modify a ball joint tool from eBay using a little dremmel to fit over L405 ball joints. Most of these tools have an opening of 19mm, but to fit over L405 ball joints it needs to be ~25mm. Typically, I hammer out the old ball joints since I replace entire control arms, but this last replacement of lower control arms didn’t go as planned. The passenger’s side arm just wouldn’t give up...really frustrated me.
 

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I had to modify a ball joint tool from eBay using a little dremmel to fit over L405 ball joints. Most of these tools have an opening of 19mm, but to fit over L405 ball joints it needs to be ~25mm. Typically, I hammer out the old ball joints since I replace entire control arms, but this last replacement of lower control arms didn’t go as planned. The passenger’s side arm just wouldn’t give up...really frustrated me.
Do you think this harbor freight tool would work after modifications? 3/4 in. Ball Joint Separator
Was it needed for the front rearward lower control arm, or for both front forward and rearward lower control arms?
 

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I would think so. 3/4 seems to be a standard size for this generic tool (I checked advance auto parts, harbor freight) they all were 3/4” or 19 mm... L405 control arms need 25mm opening, i.e. cut 3mm from each side.
 

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Well had my clunk diagnoses while it was in for inspection. Said it was both lower control arm bushings and the stabilizer bar bushings PLUS an alignment. Their fix is to replace the whole lower control arms and not fuss with bushings. $1400 estimate

With that said I might Just tackle these myself if it replacing the whole control arm. I could do that cheaper myself...I’ll have to read through here about how hard that is (as opposed to doing just the bushings).

I’m not sure if I’d be able to do the stabilizer bar bushings though...and obviously not the alignment.

I asked them to include all the part numbers for the repair on my invoice so I’ll report back
 

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Well had my clunk diagnoses while it was in for inspection. Said it was both lower control arm bushings and the stabilizer bar bushings PLUS an alignment. Their fix is to replace the whole lower control arms and not fuss with bushings. $1400 estimate

With that said I might Just tackle these myself if it replacing the whole control arm. I could do that cheaper myself...I’ll have to read through here about how hard that is (as opposed to doing just the bushings).

I’m not sure if I’d be able to do the stabilizer bar bushings though...and obviously not the alignment.

I asked them to include all the part numbers for the repair on my invoice so I’ll report back
Is it dealer estimate or Indy shop ? If Parts from FCP Euro cost $320 plus cost of stabilizer bushings (another $30 max) - Indy shop should charge no more than $300-$350 to change it plus alignment. I think $1400 is way too high.
 

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You don’t need alignment (assuming it is currently good) after lower control arm replacement (if we are talking tension struts - see picture) and/or stabilizer bar bushings. These parts don’t affect alignment. I would get used to do DIY replacement since the tension struts need replacement every 30-50k miles.
 

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You don’t need alignment (assuming it is currently good) after lower control arm replacement (if we are talking tension struts - see picture) and/or stabilizer bar bushings. These parts don’t affect alignment. I would get used to do DIY replacement since the tension struts need replacement every 30-50k miles.
Your pic wouldn’t blow up for some reason. Couldn’t read the #s. My alignment is good currently. I’ll list the part #s below. I’d like to try this DIY Once it gets warmer. I just broke 40k miles so I guess it about time. It looks like the control arms are just removal of some bolts...any idea how hard the stabilizer bushings are?


Is it dealer estimate or Indy shop ? If Parts from FCP Euro cost $320 plus cost of stabilizer bushings (another $30 max) - Indy shop should charge no more than $300-$350 to change it plus alignment. I think $1400 is way too high.
That was dealer estimate. But Agree 1400 is too high. I made sure they got me the part #s bc there is the frontward and rearward arms for each side so wanted to know which exactly it was. How hard is it to change the stabilizer Bar bushings?

Parts:

Stabilizer bushings parts And dealer price: (Realize I could likely re-use the hardware)
#2 ROLR110782 - insulator Stab - 72$
#4 ROLR050753 - screw and washer - $19
#2 ROLR045743 - bolt - $10
#2 ROFY112056 - Nut - hex -$4

“Operation 601503 Lower control arm R&R 13/14 Front Both”:
1# ROLR113306 - Arm - front susp - $222
1# ROLR113307 - arm - front susp -$243
2# ROLR038365 - nut flag type - $15
2# ROLR097372 - bolt - $20
2# ROLR034221 - nut flanged 35$

Alignment $123

Total parts =646
Total labor =645
Total 1382
 

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How about the stabilizer bar bushings. How hard is that to do? I’ll see if I can dig up a how to on that
 

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I haven’t done those on L405 yet. It should be just two bolts. The question is whether they are easily accessible. I do have a repair manual to check, but currently away from my PC.
 

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I haven’t done those on L405 yet. It should be just two bolts. The question is whether they are easily accessible. I do have a repair manual to check, but currently away from my PC.
Looks like you just remove 2 brackets underneath to expose the bushings. I can only see the very edge of the swaybar bushings when I crawled under there just now. The end looks ok but I guess that doesn’t give me a good idea of what the center portion of the bushings around the bar looks like.
 

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I just noticed. The part # they gave me for the sway bar bushings (LR110782) shows on Land Rover parts website to be for 2018-2020.

Edit....actually it looks like I need LR048451....even though it says sport in the desc....this one covers the active sway...
“Active Sway Bar. Range rover sport. With active suspension. With active stabilizer”.
“2014 Land Rover Range Rover Autobiography, Autobiography Black, Base, HSE, Supercharged 3.0L V6 - Gas, 5.0L V8 - Gas“
 

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I watched that vid. Didn’t look to bad (if it’s the same and you have the wrenches). You do need to remove to brackets bolted to the sway bar and probably the splash shield as well. Hopefully once those are removed the bushings are East to get to.

Ordered a set of bushings last night and are on their way.
 

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Hello all,

I own a 2013 5.0 SC with ~32,000 miles
Driven on Lebanese roads, which are not the smoothest.
I have the dreaded “thump” in the front suspension – I just ordered 2 OEM LR113306 and 07 (Front Suspension Arms), as well as the corresponding LR097372 Bolt.

Since the suspension will be dismantled, I was thinking I might as well replace a few other high-wear parts that affect the sturdiness of the ride.
Anything you might suggest?

Thank you
 

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I will be replacing my Stabilizer bar bushings once it warms up enough. You might want to do the same. Let us know how yours goes. Be interested to see if that fixes it or it the clunk persists (likely the ARC block)
 

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Replaced both arms today. My vehicle only has 50,000 KM, and the two bushings were completely worn out.
Took the mechanics ~40 minutes to replace both sides.

292638
292639
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292641
 

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How much did they charge? I have a feeling mine need done here shortly. Have 41k on it. Don't want to take it to dealer if I can avoid it. Did it need alignment after?


What brand did you go with?
 

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How much did they charge? I have a feeling mine need done here shortly. Have 41k on it. Don't want to take it to dealer if I can avoid it. Did it need alignment after?
I didn't do any alignment afterwards. Probably will at some point. Need to find a place that does it properly.


What brand did you go with?
I ordered from lrparts.net
OEM/Original parts.

As horse86 stated, might be a good idea to also replace the sway bar links/bushings at once.
 

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I didn't do any alignment afterwards. Probably will at some point. Need to find a place that does it properly.




I ordered from lrparts.net
OEM/Original parts.

As horse86 stated, might be a good idea to also replace the sway bar links/bushings at once.
I'm also getting a "vehicle lean when cornering" error on the dash. Doesn't through a CEL but instead throws an "!" on the dash....code readers from Auto Zone etc cant pick up code for that.

But I have been feeling a wobble side-to-side since I bought the car so something is up and what is causing that error. It's not as tight as it should be....but not sure what could be causing it...Lower Control Arms, sway bar bushings, the ARC block module, etc
 
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