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This place (Austin DIY Garage) has a full set/cart of tools for every bay so I really didn’t need to bring any tools (but I still did). They even had the 36mm 12 spline socket that is required.
 

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2014 RR SC L405
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Hi All,

Please read before trying DIY. Arms are tough if not impossible to remove in your own garage.

I joined this forum just to write my experience with changing these control arms. I have a 2014 RR SC with 50,000 miles.

The vehicle is under CPO warranty until December 2020. The dealer told me the arms were bad during a planned service. However, they would not cover them under warranty. The dealer quoted $1,402.61 for ONE lower control arm. Several hours on the phone with Land Rover Dispute Resolution Center in New Jersey confirmed they have no intention of covering this under the CPO warranty.

I bought both the left and right lower control arms from FCP Europarts. I was really impressed with the shipping and quality of the new arms.
Land Rover Control Arm - Lemforder LR072471
Land Rover Control Arm - Lemforder LR072469
Both parts were $154.86 each, plus tax.

I attempted to change the control arms in my garage. I lifted up the car and placed it on jack stands. I removed the front bolts without any problems. I could not release the ball joint and ultimately failed to do so. The statement in the article "this one only needed a smack with a soft face mallet" was haunting me over the weekend. I spent the better part of a Friday evening and Saturday taking these out. I tried the following
  • hitting the bolt
  • two hammer method
  • pickle fork
  • pickle fork air hammer
  • air hammer on bolt
  • splitter tool from harbor freight (p.s. doesn't work in this application)
  • splitter tool from o'reillys (also doesn't fit)
  • 4 lb sledge
  • all with lots of penetrating oil.
Eventually, I threw in the towel. It was really upsetting, I do almost all repairs on my own vehicles and have never failed a project. I brought the car to an independent shop; which did a fantastic job and charged a fraction of what the dealer charged. They had to grind off the bolt head because my handy work with the 4lb had mushroomed the bolt. They also said they recently bought the $500 Land Rover tool since they have been having a lot of problems with these joints.

Maybe you will get lucky when undertaking this task. But be prepared for some hard work, and disappointment.

The two new control arms have a huge impact on the handling and ride of the car. The joints were not visibly worn; even so, the car felt like driving on ice. It feels a lot tighter, huge improvement.

On a positive note.
I decided to change the brake pads and rotors at the same time as they were near end of life. Went with the Napa ones. Really impressed with the quality and price.
NAPA Ultra Premium Front Brake Pads Semi-Metallic UP UP8543M - $100/pair
NAPA Ultra Premium Front Brake Rotor Polymer Coated UP 880926CR - $115/each




Ball Joint Splitter.jpg
288200
 

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Hi All,

Please read before trying DIY. Arms are tough if not impossible to remove in your own garage.

I joined this forum just to write my experience with changing these control arms. I have a 2014 RR SC with 50,000 miles.

The vehicle is under CPO warranty until December 2020. The dealer told me the arms were bad during a planned service. However, they would not cover them under warranty. The dealer quoted $1,402.61 for ONE lower control arm. Several hours on the phone with Land Rover Dispute Resolution Center in New Jersey confirmed they have no intention of covering this under the CPO warranty.

I bought both the left and right lower control arms from FCP Europarts. I was really impressed with the shipping and quality of the new arms.
Land Rover Control Arm - Lemforder LR072471
Land Rover Control Arm - Lemforder LR072469
Both parts were $154.86 each, plus tax.

I attempted to change the control arms in my garage. I lifted up the car and placed it on jack stands. I removed the front bolts without any problems. I could not release the ball joint and ultimately failed to do so. The statement in the article "this one only needed a smack with a soft face mallet" was haunting me over the weekend. I spent the better part of a Friday evening and Saturday taking these out. I tried the following
  • hitting the bolt
  • two hammer method
  • pickle fork
  • pickle fork air hammer
  • air hammer on bolt
  • splitter tool from harbor freight (p.s. doesn't work in this application)
  • splitter tool from o'reillys (also doesn't fit)
  • 4 lb sledge
  • all with lots of penetrating oil.
Eventually, I threw in the towel. It was really upsetting, I do almost all repairs on my own vehicles and have never failed a project. I brought the car to an independent shop; which did a fantastic job and charged a fraction of what the dealer charged. They had to grind off the bolt head because my handy work with the 4lb had mushroomed the bolt. They also said they recently bought the $500 Land Rover tool since they have been having a lot of problems with these joints.

Maybe you will get lucky when undertaking this task. But be prepared for some hard work, and disappointment.

The two new control arms have a huge impact on the handling and ride of the car. The joints were not visibly worn; even so, the car felt like driving on ice. It feels a lot tighter, huge improvement.

On a positive note.
I decided to change the brake pads and rotors at the same time as they were near end of life. Went with the Napa ones. Really impressed with the quality and price.
NAPA Ultra Premium Front Brake Pads Semi-Metallic UP UP8543M - $100/pair
NAPA Ultra Premium Front Brake Rotor Polymer Coated UP 880926CR - $115/each




View attachment 288199
View attachment 288200
Agreed. it is a simple and easy replacement on paper, but in reality there is a lot more effort required to remove those bolt joints. I was able to do it on 2015 L405 with 53k Miles, but only because I had prior experience with X5 which basically had the same front suspension (changed this part three times over 100k Miles on X5 V8. Aggressive acceleration and braking can eat these big bushings in 10k.)
some tips for replacement:
  • a heavy hammer is a must (a trip to Home Depot)
  • a torch (I think it is optional, but I heated the socket protecting the nearby parts with foil on a piece of shipping box)
  • finally, it is important to raise the brake disk with a jack to a normal ride level. It does two things: releases tension and makes it easier to hammer the ball joint bolt. I did hammer pretty hard. the bolt will deform a little. It will pop out of the socket once a precise and strong hit is delivered. (It is not like it moveslittle by little)
  • other tools such ball joint splitters, etc. are useless in my opinion.

these tension struts are maintenance parts and should be replaced every 30-50k in this type of suspension. The symptom - the front of the car floats when braking, turning, etc...I like the analogy “feels like on ice”.

good luck
 

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Thank you for sharing!

One bummer is you need to share your warranty problems public;y.

My 2014 had a 100k CPO thru may. When I got my truck with 75k on it last August, I needed lower control arms. My dealer got it covered no problems. My supercharger rattled and they denied it. I went dealer shopping and bribed my service advisor at a new dealership 100 bucks and they covered the supercharger being replaced, egr valves, water pump, thermostat and sunroof rattling new sun roof new air compressor and free oil change. When all of the work was done for free I bribed my advisor another 100 and the tech 100. I got $8,000 dollars worth of questionable deniable warranty work for 300 bucks. An investment well worth it. Also a new headlight too.
It amazes me how entitled and shortsighted and cheap most rich guys are. 8,000 of work, a brand new truck to me, and very small upfront investment. Not criticizing you, or your diy lca experience but if you leverage our collective wisdom on here you might save money and heartache! I. Love these forums.
Ps O’reilleys has front and rear pads with a lifetime free replacement for 80 bucks total. In my wife’s 2013 l405 HSE I’ve gotten 3 free sets of pads and did them myself. Oreilleys is the bomb!
 

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It amazes me how entitled and shortsighted and cheap most rich guys are. 8,000 of work, a brand new truck to me, and very small upfront investment. Not criticizing you, or your diy lca experience but if you leverage our collective wisdom on here you might save money and heartache!
What did you want OP to leverage? A blowie to the service manager for free work when he's well out of warranty by both years and mileage? Just really confused by your statements.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 

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Sickk23:

You should learn to read so I dont have to spell this out.

David84071 said:

"The vehicle is under CPO warranty until December 2020. The dealer told me the arms were bad during a planned service. However, they would not cover them under warranty. The dealer quoted $1,402.61 for ONE lower control arm. Several hours on the phone with Land Rover Dispute Resolution Center in New Jersey confirmed they have no intention of covering this under the CPO warranty. "

I mark1107 Said:
"My 2014 had a 100k CPO thru may. When I got my truck with 75k on it last August, I needed lower control arms. My dealer got it covered no problems. My supercharger rattled and they denied it. I went dealer shopping and bribed my service advisor at a new dealership 100 bucks and they covered the supercharger being replaced, egr valves, water pump, thermostat and sunroof rattling new sun roof new air compressor and free oil change. When all of the work was done for free I bribed my advisor another 100 and the tech 100. I got $8,000 dollars worth of questionable deniable warranty work for 300 bucks. An investment well worth it. Also a new headlight too. "

So since your too obtuse to understand what I'm saying and accuse me of giving my service advisor a blow job,

WHAT IM SAYING IS DAVIDS CAR AND MY CAR HAVE THE SAME EXACT CPO WARRANTY AND ITS UP TO THE INDIVIDUAL DEALERSHIP IF THEY WANT TO COVER SOMETHING OR NOT. MY 1st DEALER COVERED MY LOWER CONTROL ARMS UNDER THE CPO WARRANTY AND THEN DENIED 10 OTHER THINGS I WANTED COVERED. THEN I WENT TO TWO MORE DEALERS AND FOUND A MORE SYMPATHETIC DEALERSHIP FOR 100 BUCKS WHO COVERED EVERYTHING ELSE UNDER THE CPO WARRANTY.

JUST SO YOU UNDERSTAND EACH DEALER ACTS LIKE A COP. THEY ARE UNDERPAID AND HAVE ALL OF THE AUTHORITY IN THE WORLD TO MAKE YOUR LIFE REASONABLE OR MISERABLE, A LITTLE CASH NOT BLOW JOB KINDNESS GOES A LONG WAY AND DAVID COULD HAVE AVOIDED THAT IF HE HAD POSTED HIS PROBLEMS ON HERE AND SOMEONE WOULD HAVE SAID TRY A BRIBE AND NEW DEALER AND YOU MIGHT GET THGE STUFF COVERED VERSUS FIGHTING LANDROVER CORPORATE AND STILL GETTING DENIED WARRANTY WORK AND THEN PAYING OUT OF POCKET.

ALSO MY SUNROOF WAS QUESTIONABLE< MY SUPERCHARGER WAS QUESTIONABLE MY FRONT HEADLIGHT WAS QUESTIONABLE AND ALL SHOULD HAVE BEEN DENIED UNDER THE CPO AND ESPECIALLY THE LOWER CONTROL ARMS ARE QUESTIONABLE BUT 300 dollars later I have everything I wanted because Im not a cheap idiot who is entitled and shortsighted and is disrespectful to my service advisor.

MY CPO is over and I still get free stuff covered under warranty goodwill.

Do you NOW understand what Im saying?????????? SICKK23
 

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L494 V8 SC Dynamic
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I work at another brand dealership & agree with @mark1107. CPO coverage is very vague on the wordage & if a ruthless dealer thinks your easy pray they will deny your coverage on a certain part so it becomes customer pay. They will make more money. CPO coverage is absolute garbage now for most manufactures. Its nothing like it used to be say even 3-4 years ago. If you get a item denied on CPO either call the manufacture or find another dealer before paying out of pocket.
 

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I’m surprised another dealer would even entertain. “You didn’t buy the car here....sorry”
 

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Looking for ideas, I have followed the above post on trying to DIY replace my front control arms on my 2014 Range Rover Sport and have beaten the control arm ball joint stud to death with a hammer not to mention the steering knuckle. I also tried a pickle fork, went to harbor freight and got an air hammer and last resort used a blow torch on the ball joint and the control arm is not coming loose from the steering knuckle. Has anyone found another tool or have a trick that might help? I have done 40+ year old cars and also rebuilt my wife's 2000 Porsche 911 suspension and never had this much trouble getting a ball joint out.
 

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2011 Range Rover Sport HSE Lux & 2017 Range Rover Evoque HSE Dynamic
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Hello all. Great information. My sob story is that I took my 2011 Range Rover Sport HSE Lux to my local mechanic advising him the Suspension Fault light had come on and there was a clunking noise in the front right side. He deduces it is the front air shock to a tune of $1,030. I left the shop and the clunking is still there and the suspension fault light reappeared. When questioned, he stated he noticed "free play" in the lower control arm. I am very unhappy with my mechanic and questioning whether I trust him. My question for you pros as I am mechanically inclined, but I do not want to take on this job. How many hours should this take for an experience Land Rover mechanic or how much should this cost? (FYI - I am located near Atlanta, GA.) Thank you!
 

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I’m not at all a mechanic, and using a lift I changed out all 4 lower front control arms on my L405 in about 4 hours.
 

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sweet.....how hard was it? (didn't watch the vid yet)

How many miles on your 14? I have 37 on mine and thinking about doing this to fix the front end clunking....(or could be the ARC block)

edit: just watched. Great job. It looks super easy except for the fancy tool that I don't have....also I was kind of confused how you had it hooked up/what it was doing.
 

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in case my edit was posted after your response....

How many miles on your 14? I have 37 on mine and thinking about doing this to fix the front end clunking....(or could be the ARC block)

edit: just watched. Great job. It looks super easy except for the fancy tool that I don't have....also I was kind of confused how you had it hooked up/what it was doing.
 

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is that an OEM Land Rover tool? I'd do this repair if I can rent something similar (auto zone, Oriely's etc)

I have a bunch of heavy duty C-clamps....I would think those would work as well.
 
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