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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I just replaced the Front Lower Forward control arms today and I wanted to share my experience.

My 2014 RRSC LWB has 85K miles.

I noticed a front suspension clunk upon braking and a weird suspension noise when going over a dip when turning.

Anyways, I ordered LR072469 and LR072471 from FCP euro for around 320$ total.

You will need: jack, jackstand, breaker bar, 22mm socket for lug nuts, 18mm socket on a ratchet, 18mm ratcheting wrench, 36mm 12point socket (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/power-torque-tools-4691/tools---equipment-16488/hand-tools-16814/sockets-25357/bbff8604ac1f/power-torque-36mm-socket-1-2-inch-drive-standard-12-point/gm8287/4677645?q=36mm&pos=8), and a hammer.

1. jack up vehicle and put on jack stands.
2. get a breaker bar and a 18mm socket and remove the long bolt the holds the control arm to the subframe towards the front.
3. get the 36mm 12 point socket on an impact gun and remove the large nut that holds the ball joint portion to the axle hub assy.
4. hit the ball joint stud with a hammer to get it out of the hole (it takes a dang beating before it comes out)
5. turn the wheel all the way to the left to get the driver side ball joint out (otherwise it will hit the axle boot.
6. remove the control arm and put in the new one. Follow reverse order.

Each side took about 1 hour and 15 mins.

Dealer wants around 1500$ for this service. It can cost 350$ at home if you have the tools.

My rover handles and drives like new again. wow. a must do if you have any looseness in your suspension.
 

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I believe you'll have to do an alignment afterwards right? Also did you check your tie rod in the same time?
 

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Thank you for this write up. I don't need yet, but my L322's used to eat these up pretty quickly with all of that weight. My indy will probably pop these in for cheap when I need them.
 

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Another tip. When you tight the forward bolt (18mm) make sure vehicle is at the normal ride height on the suspension, otherwise the bushing will have a shorter life.
 

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Following this as I have a clunk I get when I’m turning left into my driveway...when I go over my driveway apron/curb I get a clunk. I also get a side to side swaying/rocking inside the truck even on relatively flat roads.

can you take a couple quick pics of the bolts/part you replaced. I enjoy DIY and visuals always help better since people often have different terms for the same parts
 

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How did you deduce to replace only these specific parts (and not to replace any of the other adjacent control arm suspension parts)? Did the dealership service diagnose the problem and then suggest that only the Front Lower Forward control arms should be replaced?

I have a similar issue I am experiencing with my 2014 HSE (75K miles) which is a subtle clunk or thud/bump feeling on my front drivers side when braking or going over a bump and am researching and trying to figure out what to order so that I can do the work myself.

Parts diagram below:

284737
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Did you purchase the Eurospares or the Lemforder parts from FCP Euro?
I did Lemforder for the frontward lower control arm and eurospare for the rearward lower control arm. Both are OEM and perform as good as OEM should. I had a thud on hard braking while under 5-10 mph. Replacing both frontward and rearward FRONT control arms fixed this issue. Tightened things up a bit also. Handles better to my experience. Might as well order both lower control arms for each side for the front and do all 4 (front of the car) while youre at it. I am looking to do the upper control arm peices next.
 

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Great write up! Why not replace the upper control arms as well? You've already done most of the labor, and if the ball joints/bushings are old on the uppers all the strain of keeping things tight will fall to the new lowers? I understand "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", but I also understand labor saving:)
 

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Did you also replace the lower control arm bolts (part #LR097372) while doing it or did you re-use the bolts that were there?

I read in the NHTSA document here about L405 suspension that the control arm bolts should be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I am getting to the upper control arms sometime soon! I am sure that will help tighten things up ever further!

I reused the bolts as my dealer was out of stock and I didn't want to wait... I tightened everything back to spec and have had no issues... The nuts you can reuse, technicallly youre supposed to get new bolts. If you can get them, get them. If not, dont stress.
 

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I haven't done upper control arms myself but I've seen they're bolted inside the engine bay and are a complete nightmare to remove.
 

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I am getting to the upper control arms sometime soon! I am sure that will help tighten things up ever further!

I reused the bolts as my dealer was out of stock and I didn't want to wait... I tightened everything back to spec and have had no issues... The nuts you can reuse, technicallly youre supposed to get new bolts. If you can get them, get them. If not, dont stress.
I agree. I personally have never heard of a control arm bolt shearing or snapping with the exception of someone trying to take one off an old rust bucket and having a thoroughly rusted bolt snap. I'd feel safe reusing bolts as long as the heads and threads looked good. The only time I would NOT feel comfortable reusing them would be if the heads or threads looked bad to where I would worry I couldn't get them back off if I put them on.
 
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