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Hello fellow RR owners,

About a month ago I picked up a 2004 RR HSE. I wanted to share my experience in resolving my transmission overheat issue as well as ask for some advice.

I started getting the 'TRANSMISS'N OVERHEAT' message and experiencing symptoms similar to this thread: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32123
I usually drive less than 10-20 miles a trip and started noticing the transmission overheat message would only appear when stuck in traffic (I live in Orange County, CA but sometimes travel to LA which is where one from southern california experiences such glorious traffic). I also noticed the message appear when driving up/down steep hills for an extended period of time.

Since I didn't know what was going on, and in order to prevent any damage, I would usually pull over and wait about 15-30 minutes before going anywhere again. This happened about 5 times in total before I ended up replacing the radiator. As the previously mentioned thread discusses, if the bottom 8 rows of the radiator are clogged up/corroded then that would restrict the flow of coolant to the transmission fluid cooler and likely need replacing. Upon inspection I found a small coolant leak in the radiator so I decided to go that route and replace the radiator (PCC000850 - $395), 2 hoses (PCH001110 - $80.92 & PCH001121 - $50.50) and fluid. LR says the Blue G48 coolant (LRNG48) is recommended b/c it doesn't expand as much (???) and cause the hoses to pop off. After reading the forum and other comments I used the orange DEX-Cool type which was the same color as the coolant already there when I got it. They both adhere to the same ASTM D3306-00A standard as well. PS - I'm not sure on this, but I also wouldn't recommend using Bar's or any other similar coolant leak sealer as this might cause problems clogging the transmission fluid cooler. Maybe common sense but I'm no expert.

Drove up/down some of the local steep hills afterwards to test the repair and the transmission overheat notice came on again. That lead me to believe the transmission oil cooler was the likely culprit so I replaced that as well (PFD00020 - $351.65). Once I replaced the transmission oil cooler I inspected the old one by trying to blow air through and it was definitely clogged... (from what? I don't really know). I replaced just the oil cooler and used the old oil cooler pipes as I didn't think I could change those myself.

Now all is well and I drove back and forth (about 800 miles) from OC to Mammoth in traffic and a couple steep grades this past week and didn't experience any transmission overheating issues.

My question now is, should I be changing the transmission fluid? The car has about 85,000 miles on it now. Seeing as it was "cooked" a few times I wasn't sure if it has been compromised.

I know for re-filling I should use 6-7 liters of Esso ATF LT 71141 (as opposed to 9.9 liters to fill from dry) but just curious to hear what you guys think. I've heard contradicting information about replacing the fluid between 60-70,000 miles.

Thanks in advance!
 

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I would definitely replace the tranny fluid - especially if it endured high heat.

I need to look at the way the cooler is setup on the MkIII - I want to try and install a much LARGER trans cooler on the truck as I am a firm believer that heat KILLS transmissions. Another project for another day!
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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+ 1 on the change. For every 5 degrees over standard the fluid goes it halves the fluid life or something. That and they fluid should be changed every 60K anyway, you're well overdue.

Did you notice the shift characteristics change?

Dan
 

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a tip when changing transmission fluid.

Dismantle the cooler hoses at the tranny. Flush transmission through the hoeses, both ways. There is two coolant hoses, cool and return. important to flush both ways so you know there is now clogging any of the directions. Then you also have done a flush on the transmission cooler radiator.

The two hoses can easily be removed with one screw holding the cover of the hoses at the tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dan_UK_1984 said:
+ 1 on the change. For every 5 degrees over standard the fluid goes it halves the fluid life or something. That and they fluid should be changed every 60K anyway, you're well overdue.

Did you notice the shift characteristics change?

Dan
Funny LR says the fluid is "filled for life". I guess that's misleading...

I noticed the shift characteristics change about 3 minutes before the Transmission Overheat message appeared each time. Essentially the transmission would downshift to a lower gear increasing the engine RPMS. If I tired to manually (steptronically) shift the gear into a higher gear, sometimes it wouldn't obey the commands if the resulting engine RPMs were too low. I read on RAVE that the ECU automatically selects the cooling strategy once the transmission fluid temperature passes 125ºC (255ºF) threshold.

I'm actually thinking about taking it to a local transmission shop and supplying them with the 6 liters of Esso ATF LT 7114 fluid since they said they didn't have it. Apparently they don't simply flush transmissions they service them instead. I asked what that meant and was told they replace the transmission fluid filter as well as the gasket. They wanted to charge $40 for the transmission service kit and another $40 for labor. Does that all seem correct?

Thanks again everyone for the input.
 

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Sounds like a deal, assuming they do a good job. You should replace the filter/gasket when you change the oil anyway.
 

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tavolcom9 said:
Found this information regarding a newer/replacement to the Esso LT 71141 transmission oil. It's called Pentosin ATF 1 ... can anyone speak to this?

I'm not sure if it's allowed but this link points to another forum. My apologies if this is wrong

http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/jaguar ... 487-4.html
Don't use ANYTHING other than the correct fluid. It's really not worth the risk. I paid £150 all in for my fluid & filter change from a transmission specialist. Ask them if they service many ZF boxes or BMW's.

Dan
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Well it better not be sealed for life with that poorly designed plastic cooler/manifold on the back of the radiator. :snooty: - Looks like ZF designed a fantastic box only to have a crap BMW type cooled added on as an afterthought.

I'm doing one at the moment where the lower corner of the car appears to have been struck by an object at speed. The previous owner clearly couldn't be bothered to repair it properly and had tried to seal the coolant pipes into the transmission cooler thermostat housing using domestic silicon sealant. Well it's only a £15K car, why not, eh? :roll:

The owner has been reporting a transmission overheat warning but the only reason I spotted it was when doing a pressure test on the cooling system, and every other time I did the test, I got a leak at the transmission manifold. When we removed the pipes from the transmission at the cooler, the ATF was as black as used engine oil.

Looks like it has been a long term issue which has never been looked at properly. It has been blowing it's coolant out of the reservoir cap, which has had a 2 BAR (200) cap put on which is always a sign that there is an issue with pressurising. The alternator had failed as well taking the battery with it, and only when exposing a coolant pipe above the alternator did we find a second leak. As ususal with one of these engines which has run without proper coolant and been overheated, it was a failed O Ring. Thinking how many of these O Rings there are the cooling system on the M62, I need to discuss with the customer what he wants to do. A reasonable short term fix or a full rebuild of the cooling system, likely to land him a 2 grand bill. 8~

I'll be filling the cooling system with the G48 type coolant BTW.

I hate seeing Land Rovers arrive like this. Their life has been shortened dramatically by human ignorance and stupidity. :crybaby2:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just wanted to follow-up and let everyone know I had the transmission serviced at my local transmission shop today.

The shop ordered a service kit for the ZF transmission that ran $50 and I was charged $40 for labor. I bought & supplied the 7 liters of ESSO LT71141 oil from Bavarian Autosport - http://www.bavauto.com $16.95/liter totaled $133.60 including shipping. A call to the LR dealership just out of curiosity had the same fluid priced around $40/liter. RAVE says to refill with 6 liters but I purchased 7 just as a precaution.

My immediate impressions are much smoother shifting. I had thought everything was already exceptionally smooth before the service.

It's rainy for the next couple of days in southern california and I'm excited to drive up to the mountains Thursday for some fun in the snow :D
 

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Good job. What is this ZF service kit @ $50?

I changed my own trans oil, it was easy to do. However, I dropped the pan, cleaned the magnets, and replaced transmission oil filter as well. Like a brand new vehicle afterwards.

I found a source for Esso oil $10/liter @ www.roversland.com
I also use the same shop for used parts, they are mainly RR dismantlers.
 

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Man-O-War said:
Good job. What is this ZF service kit @ $50?

I changed my own trans oil, it was easy to do. However, I dropped the pan, cleaned the magnets, and replaced transmission oil filter as well. Like a brand new vehicle afterwards.

I found a source for Esso oil $10/liter @ http://www.roversland.com
I also use the same shop for used parts, they are mainly RR dismantlers.
Not 100% sure what was in the kit but I believe it was a new filter and a seal. I definitely agree and mine drives a lot smoother now too. `)
 

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yeah, thats what i thought. oddly enough, today mine overheated after 80mi trip, and then 45min sitting in traffic....let it sit for 15 min and put another 125 miles on it (mostly highway), and no probs. i think its time i check the radiator and transmission cooler for clogging
 

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Traffic is what gave mine problems too. I'd definitely check the transmission cooler first as it might not be totally clogged just yet. If you overheat too many times you'll cook the fluid you just put in.
 

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Well radiator and transmission oil cooler were replaced.

The idle problem of staying around 1k I had is gone and now idles at 400-500rpm and the transmission overheating message is gone when it warms up.

However, it is still shifting funny when it gets warm. It will drive ok and usual when I slow down and make a turn the rpm's shoot up to like 5k and it barely goes forward and then once I get to about 1500k it drives fine. On the highway it's fine but any time I have to stop and then take off from a red light is when the problem happens.

When it is cold it is fine until it warms up. The fluid I know is burned so now I have to find a place to do a full fluid flush which may fix the problem.

If not, I supposed a new transmission is the only thing that will fix it. :shock:
 

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Full fluid change and get the adaptations for the gearbox reset and i think you'll be fine.

We had the same Trans Overheat warnings, fluid was very obviously cooked when drained even though it had only been in the car about 3 months and ~5,000km. Replacement transmission cooler and full change of the fluid fixed the issue properly, the trans cooler pipes were also changed at the same time just to be sure the blockage wasn't in them.

If you ever get the "Trans Overheat" message I would count on the fluid being cooked since at 140degrees it wont last long, and i also wouldn't trust attempts to flush the trans cooler. This was done the first time on ours and the problem just came back cooking another batch of fluid - replace the cooler unit with a new one and be done with it - the issue seems to be common enough now on L322s that it seems to be the only proper solution and it's a very easy job to swap it out.
 

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Thanks! Is a dealer the only one to reset the adaptation values?

I haven't dropped it off for a trans replacement but I was going to after work today. The fluid I know is cooked because it was black and also the transmission overheat message disappeared and has not come back since replacing the radiator and the trans oil cooler with new ones 3 days ago.

I am going to go with a full flush and the reset first before I drop a lot of money for a new transmission.
 
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