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l322 v8 2004
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1 Posts
Hi all,

Obligatory first time posting here.

I have a 2006 Range Rover HSE that has a battery drain problem that I cannot chase down.

The car would die in a few days, and need to be jumped. I replaced the battery.

Problem continued. Have checked fuses, only one that gives me a reading is the air suspension (0.3). There is a clear leaking liquid directly behind the front left driver side tire (it is clear and odorless). After a while of being turned off there is sagging in the front of the vehicle (I am aware this maybe an air suspension problem).

Now, the car only starts when I jump it. When the cables are attached (brand new cables), it takes a while to jump - there is intermittent clicking noises (click, silence, click, silence) while the cables are attached.

Once the car starts up it runs fine (no battery light or anything). But once the car turns off, it immediately dies and does not turn on again.

Any thoughts?
 

Registered
2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
Joined
77 Posts
Do me a favor and check the ground point above the passenger front wheel before you start buying parts. This was my problem because the ground cable was corroded in pieces. This is for 2010 RRS. Should be the same with yours. Good luck 馃馃徎

285446
 

Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
117 Posts
I would advise you to not pull the positive or negative cable off while the vehicle is running. This procedure has a high potential to burn up one or more of the many computers in you RR. Spend the money to buy a cheap multi meter.
trouble shooting- start with inspecting you battery cables. Replace if there is any evidence of corrosion damage. Next, check your ground. Place your multimeter on ohm. Take the negative cable off of the battery. Place one multimeter lead on the jumper lug on the shock tower and the other on the cable end that you removed from the battery. Ensure that end isn鈥檛 touching anything. It should read 0 ohms. If nothing is measured, remove, inspect, and replace if necessary. If that is good, place the mm lead that is on the lug onto anything metal on your engine. It should read 0 ohms. If that is a high reading you have a grounding strap issue. Find your engine to body grounding straps and inspect and replace. If that all checks good, jump start the vehicle and check the charging system voltage at the battery. Mm set to Volts, red on red, black on black. Should be above 13v. This indicates you are providing voltage.there could still be an issue with the alternator though. If the vehicle still runs, drive it to an auto parts store or mechanic who can perform an alternator load check. Sometimes an alternator will provide proper voltage but fail to provide any amperage. Diode issue. If the alternator checks good, charge the battery and have it load tested.if all of that checks good it means you have a high current draw that is quickly draining your battery. Check you vehicle specs but it should be less than 500ma. To check that, you should use a meter with a clamp. Taking the battery cable off and on will destroy your ECU/BCU. When you get one, ensure you have a fully charged battery, clamp the meter around the battery cable ( follow the meters instructions. Ensure the settings show 0.000 mA) and read the current draw. Should be very low, 500mA or less. If it鈥檚 high, pull one fuse at a time and see where the current draw drops into the acceptable range. That will be your offender.
What evidence is there that you can "destroy your ECU/BCU" if the positive cable is disconnected from the battery while running? If the alternator is functioning properly, there will be NO change in anything. The vehicle does NOT run off of the battery, it runs off of the cabling supplying power to everything and that power will be coming from the alternator if it is working. If the alternator is not working when you remove the positive cable, ALL power will switch off which has the affect of turning off the key. If you have an actual technical explanation why this is not the case I would like to hear it. Removing grounds is a completely different story so don't go there.
 

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1,416 Posts
What evidence is there that you can "destroy your ECU/BCU" if the positive cable is disconnected from the battery while running? If the alternator is functioning properly, there will be NO change in anything. The vehicle does NOT run off of the battery, it runs off of the cabling supplying power to everything and that power will be coming from the alternator if it is working. If the alternator is not working when you remove the positive cable, ALL power will switch off which has the affect of turning off the key. If you have an actual technical explanation why this is not the case I would like to hear it. Removing grounds is a completely different story so don't go there.
Interesting response - reminds me of what I knew about older vehicles where this was reasonably true, before newer circuitry and vehicles changed that idea.

But just to make sure, Gadzooks2, how about going out & running your RR, then pulling the cable for a little while, then hooking it back up and after a few hundred miles or a week of driving, please let us know how it worked.
That might help put any doubters at ease.
 

Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
117 Posts
Thank you for that extremely detailed and technical answer. You learn something all the time on these forums. We are all much better informed now.
 

Registered
Joined
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Hi all,

Sorry for my delay in responding. But hoping this will help anyone in the future.

The battery drain issue has been resolved.

I took the Range Rover to a mechanic because I could not figure this out on my own. We worked together, and found water under the carpet near the driver well.

Sunroom had been leaking into the driver well, and there was excess water under the carpet. We drained the water, replaced shorted wires, and that has (so far) fixed the issue. I have not had any battery drain issues since then!

Hope this helps anybody who may experience similar issues.
 

Registered
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
148 Posts
I had same thing on P38 and L322 ... take it to mechanic with a good scanner (snap on) or Rover ECM is likely culprit
 
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