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Hi all,

Obligatory first time posting here.

I have a 2006 Range Rover HSE that has a battery drain problem that I cannot chase down.

The car would die in a few days, and need to be jumped. I replaced the battery.

Problem continued. Have checked fuses, only one that gives me a reading is the air suspension (0.3). There is a clear leaking liquid directly behind the front left driver side tire (it is clear and odorless). After a while of being turned off there is sagging in the front of the vehicle (I am aware this maybe an air suspension problem).

Now, the car only starts when I jump it. When the cables are attached (brand new cables), it takes a while to jump - there is intermittent clicking noises (click, silence, click, silence) while the cables are attached.

Once the car starts up it runs fine (no battery light or anything). But once the car turns off, it immediately dies and does not turn on again.

Any thoughts?
 

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First, keep in mind that you are repeatedly stress testing your new battery. Running it down then jumping, hard on batteries. Get a cheap battery tender to maintain charge while you chase the problem. Electrical testing advice is abundant on this forum, I would start with testing the alternator and cables.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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238 Posts
Air strut leak, compressor running constantly, battery correspondingly draining??? Front air struts such as yours are good for around 100K miles, the rear air bags can last indefinitely.
 

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Air strut leak, compressor running constantly, battery correspondingly draining??? Front air struts such as yours are good for around 100K miles, the rear air bags can last indefinitely.
I don't believe that the compressor runs with the engine off, adjustments are done with the air from the reservoir.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
First, keep in mind that you are repeatedly stress testing your new battery. Running it down then jumping, hard on batteries. Get a cheap battery tender to maintain charge while you chase the problem. Electrical testing advice is abundant on this forum, I would start with testing the alternator and cables.
An odd problem.
Maybe a ground line problem?
When you jump it, where do you clamp the negative lead?
I am attaching the negative lead to nut on the suspension turret (this is what is outlined in the manual).
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Air strut leak, compressor running constantly, battery correspondingly draining??? Front air struts such as yours are good for around 100K miles, the rear air bags can last indefinitely.
I guess I will have to take it in to see someone, as I am really out of my depth here...and if the solution is replacing the air struts, I may have to consider getting rid of the L322, as I've read this is an expensive problem to fix :-(
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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238 Posts
Hard to say what's happening, and it could even be a simple fix that has nothing to do with the struts themselves.

But if you're curious about eventual strut replacement, even if year(s) from now, figure $1,000 to $1,100 per strut at a shop, $1,600 to $1,800 per strut at a dealer. Not sure how that computes for bills with the Queen's fancy skull on them. :)
 

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I cannot vouch for the quality of these, but just for reference, the struts, as you can see can be had for very cheap. Installation is not all that difficult from what I've seen.

 

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Front air struts are one of the simplest and cheapest wear-out maintenance items of the RR. There's a good supplier I use occasionally "on your side of the pond", Island 4X4:


I'm guessing either you haven't had your RR very long, or you've been extraordinarily fortunate that you haven't had to the front struts yet. I count on having to replace my front struts every 5 years or so, and it's just a 2-hour max thing to do it myself now. Anyone that owns a Range Rover that's beyond the warranty period must understand that maintenance and repair are constant with these. That's why they sell for low prices relative to the price they leave the showroom floor for.
If you are relatively new to owning a RR, and seeing you have an '06 with only 3 posts (at this time) here, I'd guess that's a yes; I suggest you spend as much time as you can reading the posts available in this forum, particularly ones about 3 years back (2017ish) and older, since those seem to have more valuable root cause & remedy content than the last few years that seem to largely re-hash things that have already been discussed in-depth long ago.
Owning any model year (beyond warranty age) of Range Rover demands understanding and respect (for the vehicle) - literally. Understanding the technical specifications, design and operation of the vehicle. Respect that at any given time, it may decide that it needs to take a break from service, regardless of where you need to go or how quick you need to get there.

Good luck, and I hope your Range Rover relationship is a good one going forward.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Do you know if your alternator is working? If you are not shure, put a volt meter across your battery when the car is running, (no jumper cables attached) the reading should be about 13v or higher. If you don't have a meter, start the car, remove the jumper cables and then remove the red + side of the battery. If the car dies, the alternator/charging system is not working.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Do you know if your alternator is working? If you are not shure, put a volt meter across your battery when the car is running, (no jumper cables attached) the reading should be about 13v or higher. If you don't have a meter, start the car, remove the jumper cables and then remove the red + side of the battery. If the car dies, the alternator/charging system is not working.
I am going to try this, and report back! Thank you for the tip.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Front air struts are one of the simplest and cheapest wear-out maintenance items of the RR. There's a good supplier I use occasionally "on your side of the pond", Island 4X4:


I'm guessing either you haven't had your RR very long, or you've been extraordinarily fortunate that you haven't had to the front struts yet. I count on having to replace my front struts every 5 years or so, and it's just a 2-hour max thing to do it myself now. Anyone that owns a Range Rover that's beyond the warranty period must understand that maintenance and repair are constant with these. That's why they sell for low prices relative to the price they leave the showroom floor for.
If you are relatively new to owning a RR, and seeing you have an '06 with only 3 posts (at this time) here, I'd guess that's a yes; I suggest you spend as much time as you can reading the posts available in this forum, particularly ones about 3 years back (2017ish) and older, since those seem to have more valuable root cause & remedy content than the last few years that seem to largely re-hash things that have already been discussed in-depth long ago.
Owning any model year (beyond warranty age) of Range Rover demands understanding and respect (for the vehicle) - literally. Understanding the technical specifications, design and operation of the vehicle. Respect that at any given time, it may decide that it needs to take a break from service, regardless of where you need to go or how quick you need to get there.

Good luck, and I hope your Range Rover relationship is a good one going forward.
Yes I am relatively new to owning this RR - very keen of you. I inherited from someone who was not using it, I thought I'd breathe some new life into it. I'm throughly enjoying getting to know the vehicles little quirks. Going to test out the charging system based on a tip from below...will report back.
 

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Hi all,

Obligatory first time posting here.

I have a 2006 Range Rover HSE that has a battery drain problem that I cannot chase down.

The car would die in a few days, and need to be jumped. I replaced the battery.

Problem continued. Have checked fuses, only one that gives me a reading is the air suspension (0.3). There is a clear leaking liquid directly behind the front left driver side tire (it is clear and odorless). After a while of being turned off there is sagging in the front of the vehicle (I am aware this maybe an air suspension problem).

Now, the car only starts when I jump it. When the cables are attached (brand new cables), it takes a while to jump - there is intermittent clicking noises (click, silence, click, silence) while the cables are attached.

Once the car starts up it runs fine (no battery light or anything). But once the car turns off, it immediately dies and does not turn on again.

Any thoughts?
bluetooth work? Or does it say on screen not fitted? how about the DVD navigation system?

reason I ask is because the location is prone to water leaks ultimately messing up those two things. What happens then is it becomes a drain to your battery. I bypassed the Bluetooth Motorola unit and that solved issue for me.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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You could pull the fuse/relays for the air suspension and see if that fixes the drain - but you said you tested all the fuses (for drain current?). Make sure when car starts - alternator is charging at 13.8-14.5v . I had similar issue on my Porsche - turned out to be alternator diodes allowing drain back to ground when car was off. The way I confirmed that was to leave car standing overnight- alternator was then warm to touch. Had alternator rebuilt with new diodes and that fixed the problem.
 

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I guess I will have to take it in to see someone, as I am really out of my depth here...and if the solution is replacing the air struts, I may have to consider getting rid of the L322, as I've read this is an expensive problem to fix :-(
No it is not , you can get the struts for $300/ a side and the swap takes about an hour for each side... getting rid of the car because of struts is not a good move...
 

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I would advise you to not pull the positive or negative cable off while the vehicle is running. This procedure has a high potential to burn up one or more of the many computers in you RR. Spend the money to buy a cheap multi meter.
trouble shooting- start with inspecting you battery cables. Replace if there is any evidence of corrosion damage. Next, check your ground. Place your multimeter on ohm. Take the negative cable off of the battery. Place one multimeter lead on the jumper lug on the shock tower and the other on the cable end that you removed from the battery. Ensure that end isn’t touching anything. It should read 0 ohms. If nothing is measured, remove, inspect, and replace if necessary. If that is good, place the mm lead that is on the lug onto anything metal on your engine. It should read 0 ohms. If that is a high reading you have a grounding strap issue. Find your engine to body grounding straps and inspect and replace. If that all checks good, jump start the vehicle and check the charging system voltage at the battery. Mm set to Volts, red on red, black on black. Should be above 13v. This indicates you are providing voltage.there could still be an issue with the alternator though. If the vehicle still runs, drive it to an auto parts store or mechanic who can perform an alternator load check. Sometimes an alternator will provide proper voltage but fail to provide any amperage. Diode issue. If the alternator checks good, charge the battery and have it load tested.if all of that checks good it means you have a high current draw that is quickly draining your battery. Check you vehicle specs but it should be less than 500ma. To check that, you should use a meter with a clamp. Taking the battery cable off and on will destroy your ECU/BCU. When you get one, ensure you have a fully charged battery, clamp the meter around the battery cable ( follow the meters instructions. Ensure the settings show 0.000 mA) and read the current draw. Should be very low, 500mA or less. If it’s high, pull one fuse at a time and see where the current draw drops into the acceptable range. That will be your offender.
 

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2006 RR HSE. L322, 4.4L Jag - USA
Greetings - My first post as well, but have read lots of invaluable information here so a chance to give back. I've had this RR for 5 years now:

Here's the last page first - Starter Motor was dust and replacing it fixed everything. Read on for the long version.

I had a similar set of symptoms 2 years ago. 95,400 miles. Here are my findings.
1. One day, RR would intermittently start. Generally clicks, followed by clicks, followed by start. Frequency went from once every couple weeks, to once a week, to every few days, to every few starts, to every start over about the course of a month. Connecting to another running car seemed to help, however as in your case, still clicking-starting-clicking. Once running, ran like a dream.
2. I'm very handy, but did not want to take the time - so Mechanic Number 1 (independent - specialized in MGs and Landrovers) said the battery was bad. I challenged that. Battery was 15 months old, with a 24 month 100% warranty. I had him sign whatever saying it was bad, made the warranty claim, and got a brand new $200 AGM battery completely free. No harm done. Issue was resolved for about a week, then came back. Mechanic promptly fired.
3. Took it to a second Mechanic (Independent - Specialized in Landrovers only) - I dropped it off and directed him to replace the STARTER MOTOR. No diagnostics, just do the work for me. When I picked it up at the end of the day, he said he changed the alternator, as that's what his "test" showed. No call no nothing. More arguing ensued. I got refunded, and left with a brand new alternator. Lo and Behold, 2 days later on first start, problem continued. Mechanic number 2 promptly fired.

So now, I'm sitting with a brand new Battery, brand new Alternator, and same problem. I ordered a starter motor myself. I did not get OEM (fingers crossed), it was an Ultima Remanufactured. $131.00. Here we are 2 years later and hundreds of starts on it and it starts every time, first time. I should have gone with my gut all along, In this case it didn't cost me extra money. The starter motor comes with a starter solenoid as one big replaceable unit on this model. It was the solenoid that was the problem. When I had the old starter on the bench, I took the solenoid cover off and carbon dust came pouring out. Was just plain worn out. I could ask a million more questions, but I wanted to give you my facts, and you can decide how they relate to your situation. Hopefully it's insightful.

You may be asking, why does it start when it's on jumper cables if it's the starter motor? According to your problem description, you still have some clicks even on jumpers. If you had a parasitic drain somewhere, jumping it should start it right up. This actually supports the starter motor/solenoid issue. When you're on jumpers, I'm assuming the other car is running. You're starting it off a running generator, which is going to put out 13V+, and stay consistent without a voltage drop unlike a battery on a non-running car. This extra boost might be just enough to close a worn out circuit path through your aging starter motor. As you hold the starter, the wires heat up, dimensions change, sometimes you get a spark. When the car is running under its own power, starter motor is out of the loop and will run forever. A brand new clean motor lets electrons flow no problem.

Yes it could be an intermittent ground here or there, but you'll be chasing grounds until the cows come home. There's dozens of them. They're everywhere. The starter motor is just a few short feet from the battery. My opinion based on your description is your battery isn't draining. You aren't running it down and charging it up. There's no electrical drain while the car is sitting.

If you want to tackle this project yourself, it is doable. Very minimal tools. It's literally plug and play. One electrical connector and 2 bolts. You need to put the front end on stands, remove the front right tire (US Models), remove a molded aluminum heat blanket, and there you'll see the obvious starter motor and solenoid running fore/aft horizontally Two bolts on a flange facing aft, an upper and lower. Here's the challenge, one bolt is inserted fore, one bolt is inserted aft. This is to prevent vibration and torque from backing both bolts out and to even out the clamping force is my guess, so you have some redundancy. It's that upper bolt that's going to give you problems (bolt head forward, inserted aft). Why they didn't put the crowded bolt on the bottom, so it's accessible, is beyond me. In any case, this upper bolt is completely blind, and you'll need an assortment of at least 2 u-joints, and 2 extensions, and socket, and keep the whole circus balanced as you maneuver it along the top-side of the solenoid back to the bolt head. 1/4" drive. It took me 3 days to get that bolt out. You might get lucky and get it in first try. There are 1 or 2 series on this forum where someone photographed his process, which was helpful. Knowing what you need to do, and executing it are 2 different things. Here's the good news, installing the new motor was a piece of cake. The upper bolt goes back in, in a few minutes; you can secure it to the socket with some assembly grease or a piece of tape or whatever and flop it around and it will find the hole. Once it starts threading torque it down so you don't have to find it again (have the bottom bolt in with a nominal tightness already) and set the torque! Then finalize torque on the bottom bolt.

Lastly, I think your air struts have nothing to do with this (was the clear, odorless liquid water? If so, that's just condensation, is it after you run your A/C?). There are no clear fluids in the RR, unless you put water in your windshield washer reservoir. Mine settles down periodically overnight. I think for level sensing or something like that. Not to mention the air valve and lines are 14 years old. As long as the compressor doesn't kick on all the time while I'm driving and such, which it doesn't, it's holding air well enough. As someone said, compressor won't run while the key is out. The only thing it will ever do is bleed out or open the valve and lower. Then after you start it, will raise up and run the compressor if need be. As another data point, I had a blowout on my front-left strut at 101,000 miles right on the nose. I changed both as a set, with OEM. I managed to find a brand new pair for $600 each, and did the install myself. Easier than the starter motor. I did, however, have to limp it to a shop to reset the computer as it had faulted out when I had the blowout and lowered to the hard stops. When I removed the struts, I found the front-right had already been replaced (sometime before 75,000 miles), and an Arnot was put in. I threw that one out too and put the brand new matched set in.

Good Luck,
Paul A.
 

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Hi all,

Obligatory first time posting here.

I have a 2006 Range Rover HSE that has a battery drain problem that I cannot chase down.

The car would die in a few days, and need to be jumped. I replaced the battery.

Problem continued. Have checked fuses, only one that gives me a reading is the air suspension (0.3). There is a clear leaking liquid directly behind the front left driver side tire (it is clear and odorless). After a while of being turned off there is sagging in the front of the vehicle (I am aware this maybe an air suspension problem).

Now, the car only starts when I jump it. When the cables are attached (brand new cables), it takes a while to jump - there is intermittent clicking noises (click, silence, click, silence) while the cables are attached.

Once the car starts up it runs fine (no battery light or anything). But once the car turns off, it immediately dies and does not turn on again.

Any thoughts?
Hi, i had a electrical problem on my 05, it was the radio amplifier, it would suck power when ignition was turned off, worth checking.
 

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Hi all,

Obligatory first time posting here.

I have a 2006 Range Rover HSE that has a battery drain problem that I cannot chase down.

The car would die in a few days, and need to be jumped. I replaced the battery.

Problem continued. Have checked fuses, only one that gives me a reading is the air suspension (0.3). There is a clear leaking liquid directly behind the front left driver side tire (it is clear and odorless). After a while of being turned off there is sagging in the front of the vehicle (I am aware this maybe an air suspension problem).

Now, the car only starts when I jump it. When the cables are attached (brand new cables), it takes a while to jump - there is intermittent clicking noises (click, silence, click, silence) while the cables are attached.

Once the car starts up it runs fine (no battery light or anything). But once the car turns off, it immediately dies and does not turn on again.

Any thoughts?
Sure its not the starter motor? and not battery drain
 
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