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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Usual problem where everything works apart from the sound. I've checked all fuses in the front and they're OK. Are there any in the rear that could be checked or am I looking at a replacement amp?

Connector's and cables appear fine. Sound was working prior to a battery change, since then it's been fading in and out or silent before returning. It came back for a bit before dying.

Would the replacement require coding or is it plug and play?

Thanks in advance :).
 

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Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Hi all,

Usual problem where everything works apart from the sound. I've checked all fuses in the front and they're OK. Are there any in the rear that could be checked or am I looking at a replacement amp?

Connector's and cables appear fine. Sound was working prior to a battery change, since then it's been fading in and out or silent before returning. It came back for a bit before dying.

Would the replacement require coding or is it plug and play?

Thanks in advance :).
Hi,

Apologies for my post looking like I’ve just barged in and started asking questions without searching first.

I’ve searched the forum and found some answers but not all.

I’d like to ask the more knowledgeable/experienced members of the forum the following please.

Does the logic 7 amp have its Own power supply or is it fed via one of the other modules?

I’m trying to establish if i do have a faulty amp or perhaps another faulty module. I don’t want to rush in, buy another Amp and it turns out that’s not at fault.

The sounds keeps coming and going so I’m unsure if it is definitely the amp. Water has been an issue as it’s destroyed the Bluetooth module which has been bypassed and killed the DVD shuttle in the rear too.

The screen still interacts etc but no sound until it randomly comes on.

Any assistance on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.


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Registered
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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126 Posts
What year is your Rover?
 

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Registered
2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
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382 Posts
Water ingress into the left rear corner of L322's is a common issue regarding ICE faults.

Remove the left rear vertical trunk liner panels (you'll need an Allen key to remove the chrome tie-down points) and look for signs of water in the cavity below the multiple modules.

The amp has a simple two-wire 12v supply plug at the lower left side (when looking directly at it when mounted vertically). It may be a green colored plastic but, regardless, there are only two wires so is easy to spot. Press the plug's release tab (awkward bit doable depending whether another module is mounted in front of the amp) and check to see if the amp is getting 12v+ to the RED connector and you have a good ground for the BLACK wire. Depending on the number of modules mounted in that area, you may have to remove several 8mm and 10mm fittings to allow the main mount to be moved sufficiently to gain access to the amp. The amp is mounted using four 8mm fittings. Take pictures on your phone/tablet before you undo everything so you have a reference for correct re-installation.

The amp does also have a MOST connector. Think of a MOST circuit as a continuous fiber signal loop. Any 'break' in the loop will mean a problem with the ICE system.

Rob
 

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Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Water ingress into the left rear corner of L322's is a common issue regarding ICE faults.

Remove the left rear vertical trunk liner panels (you'll need an Allen key to remove the chrome tie-down points) and look for signs of water in the cavity below the multiple modules.

The amp has a simple two-wire 12v supply plug at the lower left side (when looking directly at it when mounted vertically). It may be a green colored plastic but, regardless, there are only two wires so is easy to spot. Press the plug's release tab (awkward bit doable depending whether another module is mounted in front of the amp) and check to see if the amp is getting 12v+ to the RED connector and you have a good ground for the BLACK wire. Depending on the number of modules mounted in that area, you may have to remove several 8mm and 10mm fittings to allow the main mount to be moved sufficiently to gain access to the amp. The amp is mounted using four 8mm fittings. Take pictures on your phone/tablet before you undo everything so you have a reference for correct re-installation.

The amp does also have a MOST connector. Think of a MOST circuit as a continuous fiber signal loop. Any 'break' in the loop will mean a problem with the ICE system.

Rob
I’ve pulled it all out, I noticed this morning there was a nice puddle in the well where the equipment goes.

I’ve tested and the amp power is getting the 12 odd volts but I’m unsure how to check the ground or what to look for.

The water has destroyed the hybrid tv tuner, although it powers up, it no longer receives a tv signal when it used to receive freeview very well.

It’s also taken out the Bluetooth module and DVD shuttle.

It’s all being replaced slowly but I need to sort the leak first.


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Registered
2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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382 Posts
Some later MY cars had a plastic sheet membrane barrier installed, which was an attempt to deflect any leaking/dripping water around the modules. If you google search LR water leak technical bulletins you'll likely find the instructions and a diagram of the modification.

Obviously, it's important to find and remedy the water leak or you'll be repeating this exercise again, next time it pours.

Take a look on you-tube for videos of folks using smoke machines to detect/locate water leaks and see if you can rent (or buy a cheap model) to source the leaking entry point and seal it.

Check the ground terminal with an ohm meter between the black pin in the plug and a good ground on the body.

Although it's nice to have all the original ICE working, don't waste too much time and money or "rebuilding" the vision/DVD side of the ICE. It's a two decade old system. You can probably spend less money on a couple of tablets and load them up with the music and or media you desire, instead.

Rob
 

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Registered
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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12 Posts
When mine did this i got buzzing through the speakers and no output on the speakers. This then turned into the Land Rover logo appearing on the screen and the system not starting.

I bought 5 of the fibre loops and went through bypassing different parts in the boot until the system booted up.

In the end mine was down to the amplifier having corrosion on the output terminals.

Make sure you get the correct amplifier as I found there were 3 different options. I do have a cross over 2005 car so that maybe the reason.

Ross



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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I’ve replaced the amp with a secondhand one and that’s returned the sound.

I’m also in the process of replacing the rear dvd shuttle, hybrid tuner and front cd shuttle.

Not before I pull the tailgate off, apply sealant, new gaskets for the hinges when connecting to the body and a new boot seal. Hopefully that’ll keep things dry.


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