That $150 kit is far from complete. The parts you should/need to replace when doing the timing chain job extends far beyond the actual guides/chain/tensioner. I also would not use non-OEM parts for the guides. This isn’t a job you want to do again simply because you used inferior parts.Hmmm, thanks! Yeah I figured with guide repair the truck is only worth about 2k or so "as-is" as they are only worth like 5k nowadays or so without issues...
I'd do the repair at a shop, but I just worry something else will come up next...or that repair maybe just would temporarily mask some other issue that caused it.
I found these parts on Ebay, but probably not recommended I would guess: ebay parts $150 4.4
AND he’ll need the timing tool kit (from german auto) and the TDC pin to line it all up otherwise the timing will be off from the get go plus the tools to loosen the Jesus bolt ....That $150 kit is far from complete. The parts you should/need to replace when doing the timing chain job extends far beyond the actual guides/chain/tensioner. I also would not use non-OEM parts for the guides. This isn’t a job you want to do again simply because you used inferior parts.
You will need a bunch of gaskets (water pump, timing covers, valve cover etc). Probably will need to replace a bunch a coolant hoses, maybe the water pump itself, o-rings for the coolant pipes that run under the valley pan. May wish to replace the valley pan gasket while you are doing the work ask. At which point you will want to reseal the intake manifold and throttle body. May be a good time to replace the coil boots too. The drive belts also.....
Yep. The Jesus bolt though. I think people are afraid to crank up the PSI on the impact wrench. I’ve got some impact wrenches that I think could bust it loose if you fed it 150psi air.AND he’ll need the timing tool kit (from german auto) and the TDC pin to line it all up otherwise the timing will be off from the get go plus the tools to loosen the Jesus bolt ....
About as easy as it gets. slide underneath, remove the rock/gravel guard, drain oil, remove the MANY bolts that hold the pan on. Gently pry it loose with a plastic scraper or other gentle tool (if needed).O.P.
how difficult was it to drop the pan ? Can you give a little info on what that process was like ?
looking at dropping my pan pretty soon. 2006 4.4L any advice would be greatly appreciated
eye rollThose parts on Ebay should be fine. I always use non-OEM parts and have had zero problems. Most people who say otherwise have never actually done the job and tried them.
It is a long time since I did my 'BMW' but I just changed the guides which is really the only problem and much easier than doing the whole thing, I don't think you have to disturb the cam timing at all. You might want to change the hydraulic tensioner also though.
This all I had to buy:
KIT DOES NOT FIT 1997 E39, E38, AND M62 THRU 9 / 1998. and DOES NOT FIT 1996-1997 E31; M62. 1998 E38 after 9/1998. 1998 E39 kit fits only after 9/1998. 2001 4.4L; E53. 2002 8 Cyl.; E53. 2003 8 Cyl.; E53.www.ebay.com
In for a penny, in for a pound, as the saying goes. You are more than welcome to use garbage quality parts however you see fit, but to say that anybody that suggests using OEM parts hasn’t got a clue?
Most people with common sense prefer to use parts of guaranteed quality when embarking on a labor intensive job (especially when somebody like the OP is likely going to pay a person to do the work). A good way to ensure quality parts is to stick with the OEM manufacturer. (Not a guarantee, but better odds than off-brand parts from China off eBay.)
Then you go on to imply that the OP can perform the entire M62 timing chain guide job with ONLY a 3-part kit. I’m questioning whether you have done the job before. Sure... You don’t need the replace the chain itself because it is often not worn out and typically within spec for chain ‘stretch’. You are telling me that when you did your guides, you didn’t replace a single gasket or hose? You didn’t replace the ‘cyclone’ oil separator? Reused the crank bolt?
Not sure what your goal was in “down playing” the scale of the job.