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Discussion Starter #1
Couldn't find my exact scenario so thought I'd start a new string

2007 L322 SC

Outer drivers door cable snapped a few weeks ago.
Got a familiar snap, heard the piece fall into the bottom of the door.
Ordered a replacement, swapped it in 2 days later- all is good.

Yesterday, outer drivers door handle won't open the door again- almost feels like a door that is frozen but all other doors were normal and it opened fine with the inner handle.
Later in the day it was fine again.

This morning, door wont open from the outer or the inner pulls!

Ideas??


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Discussion Starter #3
I would examine the handle and latch but.... could not get the door to open from inner or outer pull!

BUT....after a few hours and the temperature climbed above 35*F, both pulls are normal again?!


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Discussion Starter #4
--- alright , I dont think it's cold related. The door latch worked fine yesterday in the mid 20*F range. Today at 30*F the latch quit working again. It wont function from the INNER or the OUTER door pull.

I had to climb out the passenger side....


What is involved in replacing a door latch mechanism/actuator?


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I have the same issue on my 07. From what I've read, it's the latch mechanism that causes this issue (water ingress and freezing). Some have had luck just removing it and relubricating.
Personally I have just ordered a new latch assembly from Island 4x4 (UK), Part number LR012791. Front LH for LHD vehicles.
Note, I have not received the part yet, thus cannot confirm fitment.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Same in Maine. Got an ear full from my wife. I just pictured her wet muddy boots dragging across the dash and control panel knobs (*&^@). It only happens after water or snow melts on the side window and temps drop to freeze it in the door. Too cold here now to pull a door card without shattering plastic.
Many posts on the web have stated that silicone spray down in and on the cables have helped. After running a few minutes with heat on, and all is well. But the first time it happened and could not open the door from the inside sort of worried me.
It only happens when water was present prior to dropping temps. Was -10F, with no moisture, and worked fine. I need to find out if it's the latch or cables or both.
I too need a solution. Can't continue like this. I'll contact my friend (LR service mgr) about this. He must have had complaints from wealthy soccer moms.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Mine does this occasionally when its below freezing, but its always been the door gaskets freezing to the body of the truck. With the double seal gaskets water is always getting trapped between the lower gaskets, and with no drip rail on the truck anywater running down the door gaps ends up freezing and sticking the door closed. A couple of times on really cold days I had to pour a cup of warm (not hot) water down the gaps on the drivers door and then it opened normally. The back doors don't seem to stick as much, maybe less perimeter of gasket to hold them shut. Try putting some silicon spray on your door gaskets.
 

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Mine does this occasionally when its below freezing, but its always been the door gaskets freezing to the body of the truck. With the double seal gaskets water is always getting trapped between the lower gaskets, and with no drip rail on the truck anywater running down the door gaps ends up freezing and sticking the door closed. A couple of times on really cold days I had to pour a cup of warm (not hot) water down the gaps on the drivers door and then it opened normally. The back doors don't seem to stick as much, maybe less perimeter of gasket to hold them shut. Try putting some silicon spray on your door gaskets.
It's not the door freezing to the body that is my issue, it's the lock mechanism in the door freezing that I'm trying to cure.
 

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I had an outer cable break. Had a new one put in. Worked for a few days now I have to yank on the handle 5-6 times until the door comes open. The handle is behaving almost like the cable is broken. But it's not. I've seen vods of other land rovers where the outer door cables can be adjusted. Can these cables be adjusted? Sorry I don't have an answer for the OP but I didn't want to start a new thread since the issues are so similar.
 

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I talked to my friend at the dealer. Said silicone has helped, but it is mostly the lock unit in the door. This is a sealed unit, but not to water. He said they have not found anything to totally resolve this issue. But he agreed that after a couple of minutes with the heat on it's good to go until it gets water in it and freezes again. Silicone may help if you can get it in the lock unit.
 

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I finally got around to replacing the door latch mechanism in the door. I dismantled the old one, and I am quite certain it is the cause of the issues we experiance in cold weather. A bit of rust around the latch hinge indicate presence of water where none should be.
The latch hinge would be very hard to lubricate due to its position in relation to the hole. These are sealed units and must be drilled / broken apart (plastic) in order to actually see the hinge.

Visible rust,
280992

Outer latch and plastic removed. If the upper one seizes, the door will not shut/latch, and just bounce back up.
280993
 
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