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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm considering buying a L322 and have some doubt on which model is considered the most reliable.

I know I must avoid the early BMW 4.4 engined ones, and I will be avoiding the supercharged models.

But what is the difference between the 06-09 4.4 Jag engine and later 5.0? I believe they are both direct injected and have variable timing, where is the advantage?

I don't mind getting the timing chain and tensioner done, as I have dealt with similar issues many times before with on Mercedes Benz V8s.

Isn't the transmission the weak point on the 06-09?

Thank you

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2009 Range Rover SC 4.2
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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Curious why you would avoid the Supercharged.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Don't care for the added complexity, fuel consumption and heat that is generated by the supercharger.

Working on non-supercharged engines is also much easier.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've read some comments on this forum that the 06-09 models have less problematic engines, one thing being that they do not have direct injection?

I believe this is incorrect, all the Jaguar engines had direct injection. Please correct me if I am wrong.

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L322 - 2005, 2006 na, 2012 sc
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Only the 5.0 litre JLR engine had the direct injection. Honestly, for how many of them are out there, there are not a ton of complaints. Lot's of manufactures have direct injection and similar complaints with carbon build up and high fuel pressure related issues.

the 4.4l engine has multi port fuel injection that is more common on current cars.
 

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06-09 4.2 SC is by far the most bulletproof engine, I know a few people with the same experience and mine is currently on +280.000 km with just regular maintenance
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
06-09 4.2 SC is by far the most bulletproof engine, I know a few people with the same experience and mine is currently on +280.000 km with just regular maintenance
Then the 4.2 non-SC will be even more reliable.

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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How much power does one need in a Rover?
The 07-09 are adequate. I just recently hauled my P38 behind my 4.2 from Austin to Houston. We estimated the weight of trailer and vehicle to be in the 9k range. Well above recommended 7700 towing capabilities.
Didn’t feel like that big of an issue. Still made it up those hills. Granted I kept it at about 60MPH the whole way and took back roads.
I must disclose though, that mine isn’t stock. Magnaflow exhaust and ECU tuned on dyno. The link I thought would be weak was the transmission. Just don’t floor it with a trailer.


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Well, my reference was actually between the 4.2 and 5.0.
But mine was a timely opportunity that I snagged. I had actually been shopping for an LR4.


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Well, how much power does anything really need? My P38 had enough power to do everything I do now. But I really appreciate having around 2x more. Through different cars I have owned, I find that my butt dyno is happy when the lbs./hp is at least in the 12's. I had an Audi in that range and loved its power. My SC is about 11.5 (5900/510) so I'm very happy. At 400hp, that 14.8 lbs/hp, not very inspiring. At 300hp, that's P38 territory due to the extra weight. Before buying, I researched threads about the SC and I didin't find many problems associated with it. And with very little difference in price as a used car, I decided I wanted the power. No doubt that certain pieces are harder to access. I haven't noticed any heat issues (like with hot vee turbos). Change in gas consumption is minimal. We all make our own excuses but for me, having an actually powerful Range Rover put a smile on my face.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Different strokes for different folks. When I want to feel acceleration, I have another vehicle to accomplish that.

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It's true the SC adds weight, has rotating parts, snout bearing etc. So it's added hardware, even noise, if you don't need it. Good fun and gobs of torque.

The 4.2 is a little rough. The SC mode is on/off, economy isn't great. Any Audi 4.2 will blow it away.
The 5.0 is in german realm in terms of smoothness and performance.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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It’s interesting to hear perspectives on this.
If I can have only one vehicle in my garage, it would be a RR SC. To me it’s the medium that does everything well.
I do happen to have a second vehicle. A 98 Discovery with some substantial off-road mods. That’s my play toy.
I got away from driving cars when I realized off-road was more fun. Never looked back.
I raced cars in the 80’s. I remember cars of the 60’s with 400hp off the showroom. 70’s saw emissions and Ralph Nadar destroy horsepower.
I remember we would spend lots of money, time, and effort to get an engine to produce 400hp in the 80’s. Now 400hp is common off the dealer lot.


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Despite my comments about loving 500+hp, I'll admit I rarely call them into action. But its there if I want it plus to me if fits into the "Range Rover does it all" feel of it. My motorcycle out accelerates it easily and my eGolf out handles and costs about 8x less to drive. But the RR does all of these: luxury/comfort, travel, towing, off road. My favorite trio of transport ever.
 

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2012 Range Rover HSE
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If you don't care about the timing chain, get the 5.0 HSE. It's really a fantastically smooth and surprisingly fast vehicle especially for how big and heavy it is. If you get on the throttle, it absolutely moves. For reference, I have been a BMW M and Pcar owner as well as the Audi S8 V10.

This vehicle is the most impressive all-around that I have owned, especially for what I use it for which is light off road, around town, and highway duty.
 

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I have the 2006 NA and I find it has way more power than my old P38 and a far better turning circle despite being bigger and heavier. Also cruises better. I pull a 17.5 Double Eage boat on a trailer with it and it runs great. I will give the P38 higher marks for axle articulation off-road, slightly more comfortable seats (The L322 seats are still great) and a far better tire selection than the L322 19" rims. I did not go for the SC as I like to run regular gas which here in Vancouver is now running about $1.70 a litre, the mid grade and premium are around $1.85 and $2.00 a litre, that adds up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Great, so it seems the 5.0 n/a is the one to get.

Will post my findings.

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