Keyless entry/door locks - dealer stumped so far

2960 Views 20 Replies 10 Participants Last post by Roverrad95, Dec 28, 2009

Chris X

Discussion Starter · Dec 4, 2009

Have an issue with my 96 SE - none of the buttons on either remote fob will do anything with the locks on the car. Inserting the key in the drivers handle will unlock/lock the drivers side front and rear, but not the passenger side at all, nor the trunk. To access the trunk or passenger side front/rear you have to pull up on the front passenger side interior lock stalk, and to lock those same areas push down. Seems the vehicle has divorced the left and right sides of itself. Obviously a pain in the.... Anyway at first they thought door actuator, but now they are thinking wiring problem.

A wild chance anyone else had this problem that an actuator didn't solve?

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

hildstrom

· #2 · Dec 4, 2009

If the driver's door actuator is good, you should be able to sync the remotes. Right?

It does sound like a wiring/grounding problem for part of the circuit. Since your front passenger lock can trigger the rear and the trunk, it sounds like it could be a problem at or near the BECM. Check for moisture under the passenger seat near the BECM. I think that leaky heater core o-rings are capable of flooding the area near the BECM and causing strange problems.

Chris X

Discussion Starter · #3 · Dec 4, 2009

That was my thinking - new actuator and sync and good to go. Apparently not the case, they put the actuator in but it didn't resolve the issue. And if that's not it they'll be taking that new one back out since they run $400 a pop!

Good idea, thanks. Yes I am thinking along the lines of BECM or the door "outstations" as described here: http://www.p38rangerover.com/central-lo ... ystem.html

If there is some kind of block between the BECM and the outstation then that might be something. However the windows and mirrors work just fine.

The prior owner did have the o-rings replaced and at some point there may have been moisture in the area. He decided to live with the door lock issues, I'm not so patient.

Chris X

Discussion Starter · #4 · Dec 11, 2009

A follow-up just for sh*ts and giggles. It is still at the dealer with apparently little to no progress. The Service Manager is now "on the job".....

I have a 2010 RAV4 as a loaner. Horrid little POS in my opinion.

I know I need to be patient but a week and a half is starting to get to me......

RRToadHall

· #5 · Dec 12, 2009

Chris, one thing that will help is to fill out your profile with your location. THis is one of those situations that location makes a big difference between drivers and passenger side.

Chris X

Discussion Starter · #6 · Dec 15, 2009

Whoops - my bad I thought I had already done that. Guess not. Completed now....

Dealer called Friday and said that they believe now that they have a "bad new part" meaning one of the new actuators they installed was bad, new one supposedly came in yesterday. Should hear something today I hope. This is the two week mark!

allyv8

· #7 · Dec 15, 2009

This is a common P38 issue,with tests done on Testbook first.Next is just visual inspection of the multiplugs inside the A pillar,often corroded connectors in there.If thats OK then is usually wires corroding away between the A pillar and BECM.Not two weeks work - two hours is pushing it,be interesting to see how big the bill is.....

ox12345

· #8 · Dec 15, 2009

Very interesting about the relationship between Locks and leaking heater core o rings. I had leaking o rings and eventually a leaking heater core over the past year and during about the same period intermittant problems opening the trunk (what a pain taking things out from the doors) as well as problems with locks operating on their own. Well I bypassed the Heater core about one month ago and now that I think of it, I have had no problems with the locks. Why did this not come up on my multiple posts about the locks. I guess it pays to read threads even if you think it does not relate. Thanks for the good information.

Jeff Goldman

· #9 · Dec 15, 2009

Just FYI, the passenger side front lock actuator controls the rear tailgate lock. If the passenger side is locked, the tailgate won't open. And the driver's side controls them all and is responsible for the alarm link, as well.

You can get new actuators online for about $220, and I've gotten it down to a 15 minute install. I've had to replace both my driver's and passenger side front actuators. Solved all my alarm issues.

Chris X

Discussion Starter · #10 · Dec 16, 2009

Yep, you are right Jeff. That's how the wiring schematic shows it, the passenger side controls the trunk. And in my scenario I do have to unlock the passenger side front door from the inside to unlock the trunk.

So, got another update yesterday. They say they got another "bad new part" - the same part as before, and this one is also defective. So the advisor said he was getting a new one from the warehouse from a different production batch (umm...okay) and having it overnighted. Should have the vehicle today.....but of course I don't believe that for a second and I don't think he does either.

Thankfully I don't expect a huge bill. I made a point during this process that I was paying the cost of parts and the normal time to replace the parts, not all this elaborate troubleshooting time. I've had my Jag to this dealer for service for years and years and they have always done me right and given me discounts.

I believe any future actuator replacements I'll just DIY. I probably should have done this one myself too but my schedule was way too busy unfortunately.

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Chris X

Discussion Starter · #11 · Dec 17, 2009

Today's update (in case anyone cares :wink: )

My wife picked up the RR yesterday. They only billed us $200 for labor plus the parts - about $700. Not bad (i get a 15% discount on all work there).

Anyway, she drives it home, locks it with no problem. About 2 hours later unlocks it and goes to the gym, locks it there and no problem. Comes home, and it won't unlock. She can't open the drivers side door. I see her sitting in the car messing with it so I go out and see that the drivers side will rapidly unlock then lock itself whenever the unlock on the fob is pressed. I have her start the car and turn it off again, no change.

So I try another key in the door handle, same thing, although I quickly open the back drivers side door. Long story short is we messed with it for 20 minutes and couldn't get the drivers door to unlock and open (she climbed out the passenger side).

I checked it this morning and to get it open on the passenger side I had to press the fob and quickly open the door before it re-locked itself (on passenger side - drivers door latch does not seem to be connected to anything).

It's going back to the dealer this afternoon. ARGH!!! :evil:

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Chris X

Discussion Starter · #12 · Dec 18, 2009

Incredibly, it was yet another failure of the drivers side door actuator. Another one is on order. Where the heck do they make these parts? Quality control appears to be quite terrible. I think I may be more upset with the fact that we are finally supposed to get about 6" of snow tonight and I was looking forward to plowing around in it for the first time in the RR. I guess I'll have to use the Jeep instead.

medcapequip

· #13 · Dec 20, 2009

I recently had the same problem. I just lock the doors with my key. My remote is useless, new batteries and button kit and still doesn't work.

Sucks to hear that you keep getting new "defective" parts....three is unheard of. Because the truck is so old you just have to start castrating the thing to just the basic parts, motor, brakes, and gas. I just use my truck to haul stuff :roll:

Chris X

Discussion Starter · #14 · Dec 21, 2009

LOL...you may be on to something there. The prior owner already eliminated the EAS. When I got the truck that's how it worked, had to use the key in the drivers door. The PITA part was reaching over to the passenger side to unlock the trunk. For me, not hard, I'm 6'5"...but my wife is 5'3" and it was getting on her nerves. So...well you know how those things go.

If this last attempt doesn't work, I might ask for my old actuator back and just forget the whole deal! I wonder if you could have another keyed lock installed on the passenger side door as well?

RRToadHall

· #15 · Dec 21, 2009

medcapequip said:
...because the truck is so old you just have to start castrating the thing to just the basic parts, motor, brakes, and gas. I just use my truck to haul stuff :roll:

Castrating being the key word here. If the P38 is such a miserable hunk in your eyes I would sell it and buy something without all the "problematic" systems to haul stuff. :roll: Just think, more reliable engine, better brakes, no air suspension, no leaky O rings, no slipping liners. I think they call them Toyotas. :lol:

Chris X

Discussion Starter · #16 · Dec 23, 2009

OK, picking the truck up today after actuator #4 has been installed. They kept it overnight and tested the bejezus out if it, so far so good. I'll see how it holds up!

thanks for everyone's input on this one. Hopefully Land Rover improves quality control on this part.

rayc

· #17 · Dec 26, 2009

Get them to check the RF receiver is the later one.

I had a problem where mine wouldn't unlock. Turned out the RF receiver had sent a power spike through the BECM and burnt out the front door actuators.

I changed the RF receiver, then the locks and it's been fine since (touches wood).

Spoke to Rixlocks about it in detail and he said that the RF being faulty will cause spikes and burn out any subsequent new door actuators.

Hope this helps

Chris X

Discussion Starter · #18 · Dec 28, 2009

Hey thanks for that tip. I'll call the dealer and inquire. I had wondered about the RF receiver myself, but hadn't done the research on here yet to try and determine if I had the later one or the stock version. I did notice there is a coaxle (sp) cable hanging out of the trim panel on the rear windo glass that isn't connected to anything. I was thinking this may have been the RF connector and the prior owner disconnected it for some reason.

I'll do a search and see if there is a way to tell if mine has been replaced. I think I read that you can't tell by the part number....

Thanks again!

nipper

· #19 · Dec 28, 2009

I'll do a search and see if there is a way to tell if mine has been replaced. I think I read that you can't tell by the part number....

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There is no part number on it. Go on one of my threads and you will see a pic of the old and the new type.

Chris X

Discussion Starter · #20 · Dec 28, 2009

Thanks for the tip Nipper, I'll do just that.

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