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Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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788 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

First off . . . I've searched

I purchased the RR with 2 key fobs. 1 of them keylessly armed and disarmed the car, whereas the other just flashed red.

(1) My 12-volt battery died, had it replaced, and the keyless lock/unlock stopped working.
(2) I tried to synch both fobs using the owner's manual directions - didn't work.
(3) I tried to synch both fobs using the instructions on here (hold button til for 5-30 sec, put key in door and hold left for 5-30 sec, then center, then right for 5-30 secs).
(4) I replaced the batteries in both remotes
(5) All of a sudden the keyless entry came back to the one that had initially worked but not to the other.
(6) Two days later, I disconnected the 12-volt battery to change the terminals and now neither key works (AGAIN!) and I have not been able to synch either of them.
(7) My mechanic is now stumped and has no directions for me.

Help? Please?
 

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Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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788 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Keyfob sync described in the manual works every time for me, this obviously requires all the relevant items working though.
Yeah, it does require that. I'm going to have the transponder checked out during my next service next week along with whatever mechanism is in the door. I'll post up the findings. . .
 

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Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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788 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Follow up report ...

Dealer said it's the infamous BeCM and it will be $1,450 to fix.

The key is communicating with the interior antenna but the door locks aren't unlocking or locking.

I'm about to start research prices online
 

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Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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116 Posts
Strangely enough with my 2001 P38, syncing with mine occurs randomly. So when I have had to disconnect the battery, I would do the syncing procedure every time I entered the car and locked the car... sometimes it worked same day sometimes it took a few days, but every time it will be out of the blue that she picks up the sync and have no issues thereafter (knock on wood)

I know this technique isn't the professional or scientific way to figure out your problem, but this has happened to me more then a dozen times and this method has worked every single time... so its certainly worth a shot before you layout the dough for a becm....
 

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Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
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788 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Strangely enough with my 2001 P38, syncing with mine occurs randomly. So when I have had to disconnect the battery, I would do the syncing procedure every time I entered the car and locked the car... sometimes it worked same day sometimes it took a few days, but every time it will be out of the blue that she picks up the sync and have no issues thereafter (knock on wood)

I know this technique isn't the professional or scientific way to figure out your problem, but this has happened to me more then a dozen times and this method has worked every single time... so its certainly worth a shot before you layout the dough for a becm....
It's been over a month with no luck.

I was told by a guru on here that it's more likely the frequency receiver or a bad door lock actuator so i'm going to start there instead of the BeCM. Results will be posted.
 

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5 Posts
make sure the door microswitch is working - you should be able to double lock , and see indicator side lights flashing and hear beeps when you lock / unlock with the key.

I had to spray WD40 inside with the window down to get it working again before I could then disarm the engine with the EKA code and resynch the keys (one of which had not worked for some time).
 

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Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover P38A
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230 Posts
make sure the door microswitch is working - you should be able to double lock , and see indicator side lights flashing and hear beeps when you lock / unlock with the key.

I had to spray WD40 inside with the window down to get it working again before I could then disarm the engine with the EKA code and resynch the keys (one of which had not worked for some time).
Hi Daxio, just to confirm. Did you spray WD40 directly into the micro switch?

Regards

Garry
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,159 Posts
I doubt it - the micro switches are on the bottom of the door latch - pretty much where the wires come out of the latch itself.

Spraying WD-40 down from by the window is only likely to hit the locking/handle rods and the various moving attachments for them on the top of the latch.

Marty

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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165 Posts
To confirm micro switch operation you can open the windows and hold the key in the door cylinder to the lock position. This should close all windows and sunroof. If this doesn't happen the switch in the latch is faulty. You can ground the wire from the latch with the door panel removed and program your keys if you don't want to buy a latch,however, this should only be a temporary fix as the latch is now giving you warning signs of failure and a possible superlock condition,no fun !
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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11 Posts
Hi, i'm no expert but i think you can only have one key synced at a time so if one works then you try to sync the other then the first will then not work, also pulling the antenna off the RF receiver solved all my problems that were linked to the BeCM, only down side is you have to poke the keyfob at the rear window to unlock the door, hope this helps.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover P38A
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230 Posts
Hi Marty,

That's exactly what I thought aswell as the position of the switch can only be sprayed directly when the door card is removed.

I also tried pressing the FOB buttons whilst inside the Range but as expected no red glow from the gear selector.

I'm going to try the global closure test with the key and also have a look at the BECM connections but I'm leaning towards the FOB as being the problem.

Garry
 

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Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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116 Posts
My 2001 P38 never closed the windows and sunroof when holding in the locked position.... your saying this means I should attend to the latch asap to avoid a future problem? Which is most likely to happen when I am on a mountain in Vermont skiing and close to NOTHING
 

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SUPER MODERATOR
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27,756 Posts
"Lazy locking"/ global closure" is not activated on all rigs. Lazy Locking, just like one touch, DRL etc, is a BeCM setting function.
 

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Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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116 Posts
I see.... is there anyway to add this setting as a function to my rig? Or was it a build option..?
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,159 Posts
Hi, i'm no expert but i think you can only have one key synced at a time so if one works then you try to sync the other then the first will then not work, also pulling the antenna off the RF receiver solved all my problems that were linked to the BeCM, only down side is you have to poke the keyfob at the rear window to unlock the door, hope this helps.
You can have up to 4 keys on a P38, all of which can be synchronised as they transmit a different FOB code to the BECM.

The lazy locking test, whilst it does prove that the CDL switch works, is also operated every time the key is turned in the lock. The only definitive way of testing the micro switches is to spend 5minutes taking the door card off, unplugging the latch (I unplug the outstation too so it doesn't lock the rest of the doors whilst you're working) and use the continuity test on a multimeter to measure between the black wire And the different micro switch wires.

I have posted a link up to a good site (not mine) in another recent thread on latch/locking/key fob issues that is very good for troubleshooting locking problems with step by step instructions, including pictures, to testing all of the latch micro switches.

You have to do it with the latch unplugged as you get random results if it's still plugged in.

Marty




Sent from my S4
 

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Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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788 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Dealer insists it's the becm because it isnt sending a signal to the door locks.

I'm told by a non-dealer expert that the becm is the least likely culprit, and that the actuators themselves are the most likely.

Sigh .... I'm debating whether to replace the actuator/microswitch and Things are about to get ugly between me and the dealer as i intend to demand a refund.

I cant believe no one else has had / solved this issue. Would be my luck.
 

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Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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165 Posts
I have seen and corrected this condition successfully many times. If you use a temporary jumper wire and back probe the blue /red wire at connector 782l and black wire terminal 2 c 763l you will have bypassed the door latch micro switch allowing you to sync your keys. If you would rather prove out the circuit then use a continuity tester between the terminals I just described and turn the key switch to verify a completed circuit. The connectors are located at the l/f door latch. the door panel/card will have to be removed for testing. The circuit is available for view on Rave. If the key syncs after the jumper wire procedure replace the l/f door latch.The right side won't be too far behind it with lock bounce symptoms.
 
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