Searched but did not find anything definitive. Seeing as it's not possible to get a new remote anymore, is it possible to swap the physical key and the innards into a new casing that I have access to, and if so, anyone know if there is a write-up floating around? Thank you.
Key Fob casing swap?
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Of course it is possible, takes a steady hand to split your current remote and move the guts over to the new case. Yes there are how to write ups but really not necessary because it is so basic to swap cases. There are also remote rebuild kits available for button cover, battery cover etc.
Hehe, the steady hand part is exactly not me as I have mitts for hands, that's why I was looking for a cohesive write-up. The case I have in question has really nice button pads and battery cover.
as RRTH says, it’s easy, but involves a sharp knife, over way is find something to prise it apart.
a lot of the pattern cases won’t have the same set up for the flip blade, so your have to use all of your old one.
a lot of the pattern cases won’t have the same set up for the flip blade, so your have to use all of your old one.
..im wondering about same, and i have decided to make 3D model of key fob and print it out from carbon, but for some reason never had time..im wondering is there any technical drawings for key fob(dimensions, inside and out), or ill have to disassemble one of key fobs i have, and do measurement it manually ?
I think it's still possible to get brand new keys as long as your car hasnt lost all of the (2)originals and the two replacements for a total of 4 missing/used original keys. The last time I called the dealer for a new key I believe I was quoted $250. That was about a year ago;I really hope they still make them..Especially because I have only one key and I almost locked it in my car the other day too..
Anyways,if you want to just change the shell like I did. I remember paying about $30-$40 shipped for a near exact replica key.
Heres what the insides looks like. You can see the exacto knife I used to get the cover pried open enough to jam a slighty larger screwdriver in. And the case splits open pretty easy from there.
The original key used to be "premium" bling bling with jewels
The only difference between the two was that the OEM key had a much better indicator cover. Which I salvaged from the OEM key and superglued it to the new key.(not shown in picture)
Finally,reassemble the little springy job...I believe that it was easiet(or only possible) to "set" the spring and key in the closed position; (when you still have it in two halves).. I also remember doing an extra half wrap on my spring, so my key now flips out with alot of speed and force 8) . I couldnt begin to explain how its done or how I knew to do it but its all very intuitive.
After that...dealers choice on the adhesive.I used paste epoxy and super glue in combination. I dont remember why I used both but I do remember finding it necessary.(It couldve been overkill..) But it has been about 2.5 years now and Ive dropped the key countless of times and its still solid as day one. Then use some rubber bands to keep it tight while the adhesives dry. I left the key open just in case something dried it stuck..So I would have a much better chance at closing a glued "open" key vs prying open a "closed" one..
YMMV and you definitely do all this at your own risk. I am no expert and I assume no liability:thumb: But its easy pie as everyone else has said..I just happened to have pictures from way back when..
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Is it really worth the effort to measure up and 3D print when you can buy a replacement case so cheaply? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FITS-LAN...p-Key-FOB-Case-NEW-blank-blade-2/142646847951
That might be the exact same one that I bought haha
I personally do not regret it. The repair was quick and easy and I got rid of my nasty buttons and blinged out case.
..well..i have printer, and all 3D software needed, so all it takes some free time, and if nothing, just for fun, make few..hehe..curiosity, if nothing else..why not
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When i did my second one, it stopped working so I sent to to one of the few specialists who will tackle P38 fobs,
My two keys already had aftermarket casings when I bought my car but I wasn't happy with the sponginess of the buttons. Had to press down real hard to get it to hit the micro switches inside.
So when I had one of them repaired in UK due to a missin part on the circuit board I also bought a casing from them and man that was way better.
Later I wanted to fix both keyblades that were a bit loose and worn where it is fastened in the flip thingy.
I ended up buying two new casings which also had Land Rover logo. The buttons that are good have a round "extrusion" beneath. The bad ones have a cross section.
I'm really happy with those.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291366273985
So when I had one of them repaired in UK due to a missin part on the circuit board I also bought a casing from them and man that was way better.
Later I wanted to fix both keyblades that were a bit loose and worn where it is fastened in the flip thingy.
I ended up buying two new casings which also had Land Rover logo. The buttons that are good have a round "extrusion" beneath. The bad ones have a cross section.
I'm really happy with those.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291366273985
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