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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi. I've got a 4.6 that's been sat on the drive for a month, dead battery, key code lockout, wait 30 mins, blah blah. That's fine - been here before. I'm doing everything in the sequence right, but I can't get the door lock to recognise that I'm trying to enter the code. Normally it beeps and flashes after every set of turns on the key, but this time it isn't doing anything. The only thing I can think of is that the driver's door switch has never worked - doesn't throw up a "door open" message on the dash and doesn't turn the courtesy light on when opened. Never bothered me, and to be honest it was quite nice not being beeped at every 5 seconds so I left it alone. Is this the problem? I would have thought that if the door always thought it was closed, that the code could be entered without a problem? Or am I missing something? I can foresee a lot of pissing about with continuity testing and door switches in my future. I only need to get the vehicle started so I can move it a few miles to secure storage. Is there anybody in Cornwall, UK with a Nanocom that might be able to help? Also, no matter how I format this post I can't get it to show up with line breaks. What's going on there?
 

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Super Moderator
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2,092 Posts
There's 3 switches in the drivers door latch, one shows whether the door is open or not, one shows whether it is locked or not and one detects the key being turned. Obviously the first one isn't doing anything so one or other of the other two (probably the key switch) has now died too. Does the central locking work on that door? If it doesn't the latch may have been disconnected at some point in the past.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I honestly couldn't say whether the central locking worked off the key because I never had reason to try it. Is it a reasonably easy job to swap them over? I have a '95 DSE with a confirmed working door latch, as the key fob disappeared a long time ago and I have always had to lock it with the key.
 

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Super Moderator
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2,092 Posts
I meant does the central locking work at all. If it worked on teh fob the motor is OK and the loom is connected, it is just the switches that have failed. Fairly simple to swap them, the most difficult part is disconnecting the rod from the back of the lock. Simplest to undo the bolt holding the door handle so you can pull it out of the door slightly and release it where you can see it. RAVE gives step by step instructions. There's two types of latch, early ones have the loom plugged directly into the latch, later ones have flying leads with an inline plug. Other than that they are interchangeable.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,199 Posts
Indeed it sounds like the door latch has got issues.The first version latch also had a different connector on the single black wire, which could be problematic depending on the year of the other vehicle.There were actually 3 versions of the latch - the 3rd version was '99 onwards where they changed the connector type aswell - just to mix it up a bit more!
 
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