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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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102 Posts
Welcome to the forum!
This is not an uncommon problem for RRC owners, I've gone through it myself.
The usual suspects are the throttle position sensor, ignition amplifier module, vacuum leaks, and incorrect base idle or timing.
I've got some questions for you though:
  1. What year is your RRC? What engine does it have?
  2. Does the engine die when shifting into any other gears?
  3. Does the engine cut out at idle?
  4. What's been replaced/repaired since you've owned it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your reply shastacaster.
1993. 3.9L
No. Most times when shifting into Reverse. Its an automatic.
And yes cuts out at idle. Even at the lights when in D.
Tune up and spark plugs done 3 yrs ago. The usual oil change done yearly.
We do approximately 1600km per year.

I think I've found the problem.
Coolant tank Overfill'
It leaked out the excess while parked, l could see it on the driveway.
Now it doesn't die out as much.

Thanks
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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102 Posts
Huh, that's strange...has the engine temperature been higher than normal or overheating?

Only thing I can think of is that the low coolant levels are raising the engine temperature just enough that it's causing the IAM to overheat.
The ignition amplifier module is notoriously sensitive to heat, which is why the masterminds at Lucas put it on the distributor right next to the engine block.
When it has issues, it'll cause the engine to suddenly cut out whenever you're not giving it gas (coasting, stopping, braking, changing gears).
I had the exact same problem earlier this year in heavy traffic during a trip to the coast...

Anyway, once you've solved your coolant leak, you should probably either replace the IAM (which will come with a snazzy new tube of thermal paste) or get an IAM relocation kit to get it away from the engine block.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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396 Posts
Ignition amps fail in weird ways but usually it'll fail to turn over for a little while (no spark) and then work when it cools down. I'd also make sure you're getting air, so clean the the throttle position sensor on the intake plenum and inspect the idle control valve. Clean does not always equal good, but it's always a good step before shelling out money for those two parts.

Also replace the the fuel pump whenever possible, stateside it's about $5 (probably more in NZ) and a fresh one eliminates 99% of fuel supply issues.
 
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