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2010-2012 Range Rover P38A
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I have recently for an all original 45K miles 2001 P38 HSE Range Rover. She was in dealer maintenance and garage stored all her life. She was dripping coolant, plus oil from all the usual spots for something that's been used minimally with just oil changes for 18 years. Notes on service records going back have comments from dealer mentioning "needs head gasket, weeping coolant", with customer passing. I do not like to see orange fluid on my garage floor. Yesterday I pulled the front engine apart to see the right head clearly. Clearly, coolant was leaking through the gasket at the cooling passage on front end of right head. Picture below. There is no oil in the coolant and no coolant in the oil. So this was a small problem in contrast to the painful stories often experienced.

After much reading, I decided to take the risk and give K-seal a try since this particular problem seems like the target of the product. And if it failedBut, I collect cars and I value them, and do not like the idea of goo coagulating in my motor, so I decided to only let the stuff into the cooling system for one hour. Here's what I did:

1) Engine cold. Heater off. To minimize K-seal involvement in the radiator and the heater core.
2) Shake up K-seal very well.
2) Pour the whole bottle into expansion tank.
3) Fire her up immediately (didn't want the stuff to sit still AT ALL - my rule was to shake it up and keep it shook so that minimal unnecessary deposits could accumulate anywhere).
4) Let her idle for about 5 minutes.
5) Hit the road driving normally for 30 minutes, watching temp gauge. Play podcast: THE END OF THE WORLD WITH JOSH CLARK.
6) Parked, and looked under engine where coolant usually drips off the block. No coolant. Area dry as bone.
7) Hit the road again another 30 minutes. Continue podcast and watch temp gauge.
8) Arrive home. Block still dry, no coolant leak.
9) Let engine idle a few minutes, still no leak.
10) Prepare tools to drain cooling system upon engine down.
11) Shut down engine, immediately drain system (to maximize getting the K-seal out, the water was all freshly churned up and no settling of K-seal allowed). BE CAREFUL DRAINING IT HOT! COOLANT REALLY WANTS TO GET OUT!!!
12) Run the hose through the radiator (bottom plug removed), and through the engine (hose at the top joint apart, hose from block to thermostat underneath disconnected)
13) Run enough water through, eventually you can tell you've got as much out as you can and the water is clear.
14) Reconnect hoses and fit radiator plug, refill. Run engine off and on, refilling 50/50 distilled water and orange coolant.
15) Still no leak. Will post update after some mileage to let you know if it holds.

IMG_4867.jpeg
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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417 Posts
K seal is great but I only used 1/2 bottle after my radiator/water pump/ thermostat replace. Let us know how it goes.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover P38A
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47 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Why'd you use it after replacing those components?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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417 Posts
If this was to me, I used it because you should use a sealant after replacing items with new. For example if you are leaking and overheating
and mabey a clogged radiator is the culprit, the sealant will clog it more than going to the head gaskets. My philosophy when using, and my opinion.
 

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165 Posts
My 1995 beater had a coolant leak from the small plastic stop cock at the bottom of the radiator. Not the big one, but the small wing-nut looking thing that has a couple of o-rings.

I tried to remove this part to replace the o-rings but it was so firmly sealed the wings were flexing and I thought any more pressure and I'll break the thing, suggesting this had maybe been super-glued in place. Not wanting to spring for a new radiator (this is a $3k AUD fun car for off-roading/tinkering and is being fixed with budget parts) and after advice from some UK mechanics, I chucked in some k-seal.

The product manufacturers didn't give it much chance as the surfaces are plastic not metal and the system is pressurised, but lo and behold it worked. This stuff seems nothing like bars-leaks from my youth.

Would I use it in my other cars? Nope, I'd spend the time and money fix them properly because they're nice cars. But for my old incontinent run-around I gave it a go.

4 months, 2,500 km later it's still in there and still sealed and still perfect temperature. YMMV.
 

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Since you're obviously careful about your cooling system, two questions: You added distilled water, but how much hose pipe water was left in the system? Plus you diluted the whole system to flush it, but don't seem to have added coolant to what was left. Better to add 50% of the whole capacity as coolant?
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #7
I have a gallon of orange in the system at the moment, and will be re-flushing again soon at which point it will be pure 50/50 orange/distilled.
 
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