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Discussion Starter #1
My Range Rover's managed to thrown up a new problem for me to try and figure out. I'm not sure where to start with this one though so hopefully someone can offer a few ideas ..

The car starts up instantly from cold and runs perfectly with a steady idle. After about 15 minutes though, as the engines getting warm (temp gauge about 25%) it suddenly dies, it doesn't splutter or start idling erratically, it just dies. The strange thing is though that the injectors keep on firing (you can hear a repetitive electronic buzzing sound). The engine will then be extremely difficult to restart and will flood fairly easily. If you do get the engine going it'll die again unless you keep your foot on the gas and when it does die the injectors will carry on firing again.

I've recently did the heads on the car and at the same time fitted new injectors, spark plugs, and coil and it was running really well until this problem reared it's head. I would have suspected one of the sensors if it wasn't for the injectors firing once the engine had died which makes me think the ecu still thinks the engine's running.

To put it mildly, I'm confused, and any suggestions would be really welcome!!!

Cheers, Simon
 

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Coolant sensor? Not sure how to check that, though. Also, this is sort of a stock answer and likely not applicable to you, but did you check for vacuum leaks? I believe vacuum leaks can cause hot stalling, but that should also be idling funny. That is easy enough to check, and at least rule out. Good luck. Disclaimer: I'm somewhat new at this.
 

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My suspect in this case would be the MAF. Had the same on my Disco which I owned before. But this was more when the car reach opertion temp.
A good clean with carb cleaner improved the situation.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the advice guys, the coolant sensors OK, I checked the resistance both hot and cold and it seems about right and I can't find any vacuum leaks though as you say this would affect it hot or cold. I've also done another check of the MAF sensor and that seems fine too.

I'm beginning to suspect either the coil or ignition amplifier, despite the fact they're both new. I'm just not entirely sure how to test them. I think the fact that the ECU is still firing the injectors once it's stalled means it must be getting some kind of signal from the coil (at least I think that's how it works).....
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Idle air control valve? :think:
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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367 Posts
SimonB said:
I'm beginning to suspect either the coil or ignition amplifier, despite the fact they're both new.
That's what I thought of immediately. Is the ignition module still on the side of the distributor? There is a relocation module to move it from there to a less warm place like the wheel well. The ignition module eats the coil when it is failing. I put two coils on mine before I learned the module needed to be moved.

At least that's what mine did.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yep, looks like it's the ignition amplifier module overheating and cutting the engine somehow. I ran the car last night with the bonnet open and it didn't cut out at all. Bonnet closed and it did, so it must be the heat build up. I recently did the relocation of the ignition amp from the distributor to the front wing but i'm guessing i bought a dodgy module. The plan is to change it this weekend and see i that cures the problem, i'll keep everyone updated and thanks a lot for all the advice.
 
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