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Discussion Starter #1
Been looking for a while. Finally found s decent deal and foundation

Super solid frame and for most part. Body. Has some rot front floor boards and rear cargo areas. I will cut out and weld in patches.
Not sure if I want to go back with carpet or do some sort of coating.
Need to tidy up some interior trim pieces etc.
Has 180000 miles. 3.9 runs smooth and strong. No smoke. Could Have been rebuilt.
Leaks at valve covers, oil pan, rear main. Will probably pull and go through it with all new gaskets and seals etc
More leaks of trans or lower steering cannot really identify.
Little coolant as well
Front end of Engine next to distributer is saturated?

I can probably get by with just painting hood and roof.

Super excited for this project!



 

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2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
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Very nice and best of luck!

I didn’t know 3.9’s were available in 95’s
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Very nice and best of luck!

I didn’t know 3.9’s were available in 95’s
3.9s were stock for SWB, 4.2 stock for LWB.


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Discussion Starter #5
Yep I have had a blast this far just driving it around.

I’m debating on my strategy for it.

Option 1
Some what nice trail rig addressing all of the interior/exterior cosmetic issues etc. on s budget and rock it out as is. Meaning ignoring the cracked speaker cover here. Leave carpet out and put on a roll on sealer insulator and some rubber floor mats.
Air suspension was already converted over with old man springs.

Option 2
Leave stock And restore including paint job and interior etc.

I will definitely have to try to address some of the leaks going on with the engine and transfer case.






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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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I had a similar debate in my head a few years back as I brought my '95 back to life from a decade long slumber. What I realized was that the '95s have so many one year only parts, that it didn't really make sense to me to turn her into a full-blown trail rig, especially since I knew I would ultimately bring her back to stock some day.

If you do choose the resto route, it could be a long journey, especially with the plastic bits. Check out Jeff's rebuild thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
O man the plastic parts seem like gold! Very hard to find. I didn’t think much of it until I started searching.


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Discussion Starter #8
So I’m going to take a stab out of modifying a discovery center dash to fit the classic. I will Keep you all posted.

Also picked up another polished door handle to match the rest. It was really bugging me if you look you can tell drivers rear handle does not match lol.


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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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the coolant and oil leaks may be the valley pan gasket and valley end seals, very common failure further more often misdiagnosed as bad head gaskets.
if you're the discovery dash is almost a straight fit bolt on, the difference is the cluster surround. the rangie is molded, the disco 1 or 2 is a separate piece. the center cubby box is a straight fit but the d2 has the seat control switches grafted on it.

if you're speaking of the radio fascia, it is very simple to modify I have done it at least a dozen times. all you need is a dremmel and the cutting disks, you cut about an inch off the top the whole length, then round the ends.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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...all you need is a dremmel and the cutting disks, you cut about an inch off the top the whole length, then round the ends.
...and how did it look my friend? If you want a concours level finish, the disco replacement doesn’t really work, IMHO.



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Discussion Starter #11
the coolant and oil leaks may be the valley pan gasket and valley end seals, very common failure further more often misdiagnosed as bad head gaskets.
if you're the discovery dash is almost a straight fit bolt on, the difference is the cluster surround. the rangie is molded, the disco 1 or 2 is a separate piece. the center cubby box is a straight fit but the d2 has the seat control switches grafted on it.

if you're speaking of the radio fascia, it is very simple to modify I have done it at least a dozen times. all you need is a dremmel and the cutting disks, you cut about an inch off the top the whole length, then round the ends.
Wow great info!! Im not looking for show car finish btw lol.

Any pointers for removing door cards so I don’t break anything? I need to remove the rear drivers to replace the correct handle back in.


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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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All the plastics, even on the door cards, are brittle, take your time and be very careful. It’s worth it to buy the special prybar, if you don’t already have one. I’ve had plastic pieces come off intact, but fall apart in my hand. Thankfully, I had a parts truck to “borrow” parts from. Many of the plastic pieces can be 3D printed.


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...and how did it look my friend? If you want a concours level finish, the disco replacement doesn’t really work, IMHO.



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Peter you know my truck is just a toy, It does not even cross my mind to restore at concourse level. maybe factory sometime but for the time being, what I have done to it so far will suffice for at least another 10 years or so, I hope.

off topic but btw I just received the distributor less ignition conversion kit, will let you know how it goes once I install it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well I been sick lately so have not got a chance to work on the Classic. I did pick up s rear boot floor so I will make plans to start cutting drilling out the old floor. Do you all drop your tank?


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Removing the floor does not require dropping the tank. Just be careful with the drill. Why are you removing the floor... rust treatment?
I reinstalled with sheet metal screws to make for easier removal in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Removing the floor does not require dropping the tank. Just be careful with the drill. Why are you removing the floor... rust treatment?
I reinstalled with sheet metal screws to make for easier removal in the future.
The rust was too much work to just patch so I picked up discovery panels and extra piece to fit the classic. I’ll weld those together for correct figment. I’m Debating just screwing it down like you stated then using seam sealer.

What do you all use for insulation? I’d hate to put the old moldy nasty original mat back down.


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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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The rust was too much work to just patch so I picked up discovery panels and extra piece to fit the classic. I’ll weld those together for correct figment. I’m Debating just screwing it down like you stated then using seam sealer.

What do you all use for insulation? I’d hate to put the old moldy nasty original mat back down.


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Dynamat and Dynapad.


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The rust was too much work to just patch so I picked up discovery panels and extra piece to fit the classic. I’ll weld those together for correct figment. I’m Debating just screwing it down like you stated then using seam sealer.

What do you all use for insulation? I’d hate to put the old moldy nasty original mat back down.


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if you want the same undulated floor why not get a piece of truck bed floor from a junkyard. the disco floor panel is a bit short and narrow for the range.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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I have exactly the same quandary. I own a 1993 Softdash with 135k miles on the clock. All original except for the airbags which I changed for springs and the stereo and speakers. Everything electrical works as it should. My idea was to restore it to as new but looking round I can see that there are several parts that are unique to the model and are almost impossible to obtain. As stated these are mainly bits of trim that in time will need to be replaced, things like window seals, rear lights and other parts, some of which are unique to the softdash models.

I really like the car but I can’t justify throwing thousands of pounds at it as a keeper only to eventually end up with things wearing out and not being able to be replaced. For that reason I’ve decided to put the money into a full restoration of my Series 3 SWB instead as there’s more chance of these parts (what little there are) being available in the future to keep the vehicle in excellent condition.

With hindsight I think I’d have been better going for an earlier model RRC but I’ve always wanted a soft dash and can’t think of a better all round vehicle. I’ll just run it now until the S3 is ready and then sell it on.
 
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