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Discussion Starter #1
HI all,

I just had my 1997 HSE engine rebuilt but had a local mechanic do the job (live in the south Biloxi). He did a pretty good job but now its idling very low and rough and has a misfire (p1316). Before engine rebuilt it was idling very high (had intake leak). New spark plugs, wires and troubleshot coil pack and injectors and still have problem. Took the Range to a dealer at Mobile, Al. and they said the misfire is caused by the cynlinder 3 valve getting stuck at low idle (carbon build up). Sorry forgot to mention that it rides really good at high speeds (20 to 70 mph) no misfire that i can hear.

So my question is are the valves self adjusting or should the mechanic had adjusted the vales when he put the engine back together? Now he wants to charge me another $1100 to do the both heads. The dealer wants $2500 to do the job.
 

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The valves do not require adjusting. One thing that should be done after a rebuild is to have your adaptive values reset so the ECU can relearn your new engine.
 

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lukyrange said:
Sorry to ask but how do you reset the adaptive valves? What's the process?
I assume you mean the adaptive values. I think you need Testbook or something similar.
 

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rrtoadhall said:
The valves do not require adjusting. One thing that should be done after a rebuild is to have your adaptive values reset so the ECU can relearn your new engine.
I don't think mine were ever done. I wonder how long it takes to relearn if it isn't done. Maybe I had better get out the diagnostic computer and find out how to reset them.
 

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lukyrange said:
HI all,

I just had my 1997 HSE engine rebuilt but had a local mechanic do the job (live in the south Biloxi). <snip>

Took the Range to a dealer at Mobile, Al. and they said the misfire is caused by the cynlinder 3 valve getting stuck at low idle (carbon build up).
How many miles since the rebuild? It seems odd that it would have a sticky valve due to carbon build-up so soon after being rebuilt.
 

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p38arover said:
rrtoadhall said:
The valves do not require adjusting. One thing that should be done after a rebuild is to have your adaptive values reset so the ECU can relearn your new engine.
I don't think mine were ever done. I wonder how long it takes to relearn if it isn't done. Maybe I had better get out the diagnostic computer and find out how to reset them.
With RovaCom it is in the ECU module, "other", reset adaptive values. I"ve done mine a few times. I was told that they should be reset after any sensor change. It made a huge difference in MPG the first time.

One question I would have is how this would affect rigs with LPG.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You would think the dealer would have done this when I had it the shop! He never mention that. And I paid $110 for them to do a test book diag. I hate dealers, no offense. So now i have to take it back and have them reset it? How come they never mention it? I don't get it.

The reason I had the engine rebuilt because the sump had clugged up and no oil was getting up to the upper part of the engine. So my bearings were worned out and burnt.

So does everyone still think I should get the adaptive values reset?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry, I meant to say adaptive values. dos anyone have a Rovercom or testbook? I'm willing to pay for the reset. I will come to you.

Btw p38arover, i had the engnie rebuilt first and the mechanic never rebuilt the heads.
 

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lukyrange said:
You would think the dealer would have done this when I had it the shop! He never mention that. And I paid $110 for them to do a test book diag. I hate dealers, no offense. So now i have to take it back and have them reset it? How come they never mention it? I don't get it.

The reason I had the engine rebuilt because the sump had clugged up and no oil was getting up to the upper part of the engine. So my bearings were worned out and burnt.

So does everyone still think I should get the adaptive values reset?

That dealer is the best dealer in the Southeast. Every employee there drives a Rover and the president of the LR club for our area is the tech there, Charles. Now if you go back and tell Doug the service writer that you want to talk to Charles before he starts on you truck you will get to tell him what you read her and he will glady run through all the resets on the truck. If you are rude to them and trash talk them on this forum I will assure you that your service is going to suck. So go back and talk to Charles nicely and tell him Leo sent you and I promise you they will go out of their way to try and fix the problem. $110 is bargin to get an hour of a $100,000 a year tech.
 

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lukyrange said:
Btw p38arover, i had the engnie rebuilt first and the mechanic never rebuilt the heads.
I'm surprised he didn't do even a minor head service, e.g., decoke the valves, grind and lap them in, and fit new stem seals.

Doctor Leo said:
$110 is bargain to get an hour of a $100,000 a year tech.
Ruddy heck! That's a **** sight more than any mechanic in Australia would get. :shock:
 

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Ron's post is exactly questions I had that were deleted. Never mind. If the heads were not done, even after low on oil that is a risk to take. If the valves are coked could someone please advise why a reset would cure the problem or is this a preventative measure meant to eliminate that possibility before actually pulling the heads again.
 

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p38arover said:
lukyrange said:
Btw p38arover, i had the engnie rebuilt first and the mechanic never rebuilt the heads.
I'm surprised he didn't do even a minor head service, e.g., decoke the valves, grind and lap them in, and fit new stem seals.

Doctor Leo said:
$110 is bargain to get an hour of a $100,000 a year tech.
Ruddy heck! That's a **** sight more than any mechanic in Australia would get. :shock:

Considering how advance these trucks are hes poorly paid compared to most light aircraft mechanics. :roll:

It was that dealer that told me about this forum and the main site, also Dennis at RR. So they arent just another dealer trying to screw every living soul that walks through the door.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Doctor Leo,

I can respect your answer and have no doubt that this RR dealer is good but why didn’t he reset the values knowing the info I gave him about rebuilt engine? Doug is the one the one I spoke to. He just said that he could not diagnose this problem until the heads were done.

So again the question is the reset of the adaptive values going to resolve my problem? Or just get the heads done?
 

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lukyrange said:
Doctor Leo,

I can respect your answer and have now doubt that this RR dealer is good but why didn’t he reset the values knowing the info I gave him about rebuilt engine? Doug is the one the one I spoke to. He just said that he could not diagnose this problem until the heads were done.

So again the question is the reset of the adaptive values going to resolve my problem? Or just get the heads done?
He may have assumed the values had been reset with the rebuild, since it's one of the steps in the WS manual. I make mistaken assumptions like that frequently, I can see how he'd do it (possibly).

Resetting the values may fix the issue, and is a lot cheaper than doing the heads so may save you $1500.

after doing the heads you will need to reset the values anyway.
 

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lukyrange said:
Doctor Leo,

I can respect your answer and have now doubt that this RR dealer is good but why didn’t he reset the values knowing the info I gave him about rebuilt engine? Doug is the one the one I spoke to. He just said that he could not diagnose this problem until the heads were done.

So again the question is the reset of the adaptive values going to resolve my problem? Or just get the heads done?

I have been told twice by the wise and learned folks at the dealer that I HAD to have a valve job. :roll: Needless to say, being a bit on the tight side, some 60K miles later I still have not done a valve job. My reasoning for giving them my backside was that valve jobs are not something that happens immediately. Valve wear, carbon build up and failing seals happen over time and usually give warning signs.

I went through the full maintenance schedule and did all of the little things most folks forget. Cleaning the MAF, TPS, clearing EGR hoses and so on. I flushed the oil system a couple times and ran a butt load of intake/injector cleaner through things. You may very well have fouled valves, the only 100% way to know is to pull the heads and check. Until then try checking the basics and doing a bit of underhood time.

As far as my comment on adaptive resets, that takes care of rebuild items like slight changes in sensor adjustments/reinstall, having cleaned the MAF etc. It is amazing how the slightest changes in these things can make a world of difference in performance.
 
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