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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Good evening all,

Recently picked up a 2014 Land Rover Range Rover SC Autobiography SWB for $60k. It is black on red and being the autobiography it has every single feature.
It's a beautiful SUV with only 31k miles on it. Single previous owner and overall clean as a whistle. I attached some pics of it.
I thought it was a great deal given how clean and well kept the truck was and thats why I pulled the trigger initially.

The place I bought it from has this limited warranty/arbitration for 7 days in which I can return it if there are any issues. So first thing I did today was take it to my local LR dealer to find out. He said the car is in perfectly good order except for one thing; the transfer case is leaking. He sent an estimate for the repair cost: $8475 for a new transfer case (after the $2200 core rebate) so with labor and tax I'm looking at about a $10,000 repair at the LR dealer.
I asked if they could seal up / repair the transfer case at a cheaper cost but they said at the LR dealership they would only put in a new one. They said I should try out local mechanics/indy shops for that if I wanted to go that route however.

There are absolutely no lights on the dash and just by driving it or from visual inspection I cannot tell that there is a transfer case leak. Yet the dealer claims that it is a very bad leak.

I'm thinking my best bet is to just return it and take the L on the $1-2k dealer fees they will hit me with. However, it's worth mentioning that I spent months looking for the right Rover and this one was the cleanest one with all the options I could find in my price range.

Another thing I was thinking was to purchase a 3rd party warranty for it. A comprehensive one should run me about $6-8k right? But then again I think they will require a clean vehicle inspection from the dealer and I don't believe they will cover this repair right away. If anybody has any insight on that please do let me know. Just trying to figure out my best option. (Also just for knowledge's sake how much did you guys pay for your 3rd party warranties and do they cover everything just like the factory warranty would?)

Also just some other details. This is my first Land Rover vehicle. I come from a BMW so high repair costs are no stranger to me. Nonetheless, if transfer cases start leaking at only 30k miles and cost me $10k to repair who knows what could be next?

What would you guys do if you were in my situation?? Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks
 

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Beautiful ride. I would return it because if you add $10k to the 60k you paid, you can probably find a newer and better vehicle.

I imagine any 3rd party extended warranty at this point will require an inspection beforehand or have a wash out period but who knows. It will also likely be very expensive for the age of the vehicle.
 
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For starters go under the car and see the leak for yourself and or get someone to go under there that knows what he/she is looking at. Dealers don't make repairs to components at all, they replace them... EG 5k for an AC compressor on my last rig which I fixed for $12
 

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Also worth mentioning you should check the lemon laws in your state, they may repair that for you. I also suspect they made a decent profit on you, so it'd probably be in their best interest to take care of that.
 

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I would fix it. That’s a gorgeous spec man.

Indy can do it cheaper
 
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AAMCO should just do the gasket for less than 1200 bucks. Ride is gorgeous. I paid 40k for a 14 Autobiography with 74k miles but CPO warranty bumper to bumper for another year. I had to fix the paint and spend 1k on new rims but worth it. If you love the car keep it and fix it. You did overpay, but a thing is worth what we pay for it, if we want it. Your 60k was worth it to you. Now go to like 5 shops and price a new gasket and labor and price a used transfer case on eBay! Call “theroverspot” in sun valley California google it. They will sell you one cheap! And maybe ship it.
 
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Google Unitrax in Anaheim California. They sell rebuilt ones. Also look at these pics. I spent 60 seconds on eBay and found two used 1900 and new 3400. But look at pics. You can see the tcase splits in half and can be fixed with a new gasket.
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19A3DA37-676A-4303-B846-086A44B7E4B5.png
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the advice guys! Really appreciate the feedback. I will be having it looked at by two independent shops and seeing what they can do for me. Will definitely pull up these links for rebuilt transfer cases and see what they say. Definitely wont be spending 10k at the dealer however. By Friday I'll make a decision on what I want to do! I'll keep you guys posted! Thanks again
 

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Thanks for all the advice guys! Really appreciate the feedback. I will be having it looked at by two independent shops and seeing what they can do for me. Will definitely pull up these links for rebuilt transfer cases and see what they say. Definitely wont be spending 10k at the dealer however. By Friday I'll make a decision on what I want to do! I'll keep you guys posted! Thanks again
Have you mentioned this to the selling dealer yet? Like I said, they may be willing to fix it. Where I'm from the Lemon Law you sign with the car specifically mentioned leaking trans/diffs/transfer as a burden that falls on the selling dealer.
 

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Have you mentioned this to the selling dealer yet? Like I said, they may be willing to fix it. Where I'm from the Lemon Law you sign with the car specifically mentioned leaking trans/diffs/transfer as a burden that falls on the selling dealer.
So the dealer I directly bought it from is actually a good friend of mine and I had him buy it for me at a dealer auction. He didn't put it up on his lot because he got it specifically for me. He told me that according to auction arbitration/buy back protocol the original selling dealer would have to take it back (since it requires repair in excess of $1000) if I chose to do so but I only have a limited 4 more days and 15ish more miles to decide.

As far as Lemon Law in Virginia goes it doesn't apply. It only applies for vehicles that one buys new or used with the original manufacturers warranty still remaining.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
UPDATE:

I had one of my BMW mechanics take a look at the transfer case today and he snapped these pics. He said the best bet would be to find a replacement unit but he can also take this unit out and have it looked at by one of his colleagues who could probably fix it and re-seal it. (maybe its just the gasket as Mark said?) He said that repair would cost me around about $2000-2500 tops. Whereas a new unit would run me anywhere between $3400-$5400 and then just labor on top of that. I am open to getting a used unit if it saves me a lot of money but I question the longevity of any one of those. Nonetheless, I am checking with LKQ, the local junkyard to see if they have any transfer cases with this part number: LR089531. I called other dealers and mentioned this exact part number. The price varies from $5400-$7400. Quite disappointing how my local dealer is charging $8500 for the same exact thing but I guess thats just the reality of service departments. Anyways, the good thing is that a new/used different unit wouldn't require any type of coding after installing so I wont be having to make a trip back to the LR dealer for re-programming.

Still deciding on what to do. The truck is beautiful in and out (looks brand new!) and I'm inclined to keep it just because I know I'd have to get an identical spec one again and there aren't too many out on the market right now. But at the same time I don't want an already poor financial decision to be even more poor?
 

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I don't know... to me that looks like it has had some work done to it in the past and it wasn't torqued down correctly. No way the manufacturer of that part would leave all that gasket material all over it like that. It looks almost like the fluid is running down the threads of those bolts. Doesn't look like it's actually coming from the seam of the case either. There would be a particular pattern in which you'd torque those bolts down to ensure the case seals evenly, willing to bet whoever worked on it skipped that step. You may be okay just slowly running one bolt out, add locker, run it back in and move to the next all the way around, then torque it properly. If this were my car I'd have the selling dealer fixing this for free and if for whatever reason that didn't pan out I'd re torque that thing and then reassess the situation. I'd maybe even put a little rtv around the shank of the bolt to make sure however the leak is occurring is sealed up.
 

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I would get a quote for the repair from a local indy who specializes in Land Rovers. If its cost prohibitive to fix run it back through the auction and move on.
 

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Definitely looks like it has been touched, those 10mm etorx heads look a little rounded like they were done up with an 8mm 6 point.

I'd retorque (let me know if you need torque specs), and refill. Check every oil change and I doubt you'll have a drop on the driveway.


Now, have your valve covers inspected. I can bet they're leaking worse than that. Most 5.0s at this point are pretty leaky.
 
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Definitely looks like it has been touched, those 10mm etorx heads look a little rounded like they were done up with an 8mm 6 point.

I'd retorque (let me know if you need torque specs), and refill. Check every oil change and I doubt you'll have a drop on the driveway.


Now, have your valve covers inspected. I can bet they're leaking worse than that. Most 5.0s at this point are pretty leaky.
Thats the plan! I'm gonna get it retorqued and cleaned up real good and inspect it periodically from there on. Worst comes to worst I'll need a new transfer case but I hope its just a sealing issue.

The LR dealership didn't bring up anything regarding the valve covers which makes me think they are good for now. But I will definitely have him take a look at those too. Thanks a lot!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Made up my mind of keeping it after realizing the transfer case issue isn't as bad as the service department invoice I originally got. Also the car is just absolutely gorgeous!
Gonna drive this thing to at least 200k miles :)

Will post more pics after I get my fronts tinted and other small modifications that I plan to do. I originally planned to black it out but I'm starting to like the chrome/silver trims!

Thanks everybody for all your advice and help.
 

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Let me know how much it is to tint your front windows, I just took delivery of both a D5 and L405 and both need front tint..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
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It was $100 each truck to tint front windows.. Appointment set with apparently ceramic based tint this thursday.

Said "Land Rover" instead of Range Rover but I still feel like I'm getting the high price special. Don't they know I'm spending all of my money on fuel already?
 
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I got my front end and windshield done for $100. 3M tint. I am going to go back and take off the fronts and tint all around 5%.

lifetime warranty

on my G it was $200 all around including windshield 5%
 
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