RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well after much waiting, haggling, and general unpleasant conversation with two of the biggest assholes I have ever met, I managed to acquire my first Range Rover a few months back.

283975


I would drive by this sad beast often, and could tell it was a few months or years from winding up in a junkyard. The driver's window was always down, and an old faded "for sale" sign could barely be seen in the dash. The rig itself was nestled among many other piles of ****, and it was pretty much indistinguishable from the other junk-heaps in the lot of what could be called a mechanic's shop using only the loosest definition of the term.

After a solid look-over with a measuring tape, I decided I could use the chassis/drivetrain for a body swap project... My old pickup from high school had always wanted to be a rock crawler, but it had sat in a field for 20 years with a blown engine (that was under-powered to begin with). It had never been a monster on the trails, but had a solid enough body and better yet, a clean title. The wheelbase of the RRC was a tad shorter than I needed, but I imagined the bed could be scrapped and the deed could be done. I assumed the donor RRC had no title. I left my number with the white-trashiest of bimbos at the counter of the seedy auto shop.

After a couple of months I received a random call from the owner, who apparently lived out of town and had no phone. He was in town at that moment and agreed to meet me. On my lunch hour I stopped by and met what could only be described as the methiest of the old ragged desert meth-heads. Let's call him Toofless Ed. He looked and smelled as though he had not showered in oh, I'd say three or four years.

He pointed out a jalopy from which I could borrow a battery to see if this thing would start. It was painfully difficult to extract a pair of pliers from the people present at the shop, who were hell bent on doing absolutely nothing to help Toofless sell his priceless Range Rover. It being cold and late in the fall, and the battery donor looking as though it had not ran in months, I was surprised to hear the engine barely turn off of the under-charged battery. With much cranking and mashing of the throttle with my foot like the drummer from Sepultura, I was able to bring life to the engine. It barely ran, so I made sure it would move forward and backward and shut it off, as I had not checked oil or coolant levels. Time to haggle.

Toofless of course thought he had gold, and had the assistance of the shop's "mechanic" to help with the deal, as he had "fixed it himself". They claimed it had a clean title that just "could not be found". I said, "well, then it doesn't have a title". Regardless, I offered them $400 as I didn't think I could get it any cheaper, and wouldn't pay any more. They said no, so I told them to call if they changed their mind.

A couple of hours later Toofless called me on the shop phone, and said they could take $400 if they kept the "new" tires that were on it. I told him fine, as long as they put some on that would hold air. They did. The next morning it took me and a buddy a couple of hours to get it loaded on my trailer and strapped down, with Toofless prodding us the entire time to hurry up as they needed to lock up and leave. He had immediately gone off to purchase meth after receiving the money, so I did have 30 minutes without an annoying meth-head rushing me along, but unfortunately had to wait on my friend during that time, while looking over the poor vehicle wondering just how much I was going to regret making this decision.
283977

283978
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
832 Posts
I love that story...
Quite visual....I’m gonna say you done good... it started.... the interior or lack of is .., well a methed up meth....
What ever you decide to do with it
You will come out ahead...
Good luck with your venture
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
136 Posts
Brave man, good luck. Well done - just think meth has spent all that money already and you still have the truck!:ROFLMAO:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Just to try to bring this up to date:
First order of business was to try to get it running so I could move it around... Looking through the cab I found the original owner's manual... Surprisingly informative, despite the fact that it was moldy and had many pages stuck together. I will assume the mold is dead for the sake of my sanity and not wanting to scrap it. I also found a weathered old title in a tattered manila envelope on the front seat. Score (hopefully)! Potential change of plans regarding the body swap, in order.

Noticed the rear prop shaft had been disconnected and was strapped up. Started this thread: Rear driveshaft only engaging with diff lock off, case not shifting which discusses that and the fact that the shifters aren't working great. Ordered these: https://search.cartserver.com/search/search.cgi?cartid=s-5540&category=RovahFarm&maxhits=20&keywords=da1123&go=GO! from them: Land Rover Parts and Accessories from RovahFarm and they got here soon enough. Still have not bolted it back up, but I have a game plan and potentially a broken rear axle. More on that later.

Installed a new battery and changed what little coolant was present new stuff. Oil was black but it was there so I threw in 3-4 gallons of high octane and the most serious-looking fuel system cleaner I could find at O'Reilly's: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/rislone-4779/chemicals---fluids-16461/maintenance-chemicals-16867/fuel-system-16569/fuel-treatment-17696/dfc494044694/rislone-16-9-ounce-gas-fuel-system-treatment/4700/4703102/2000/chevrolet/tahoe?q=fuel+system+cleaner&pos=5

Gave her a crank and did not start right off so I added a spritz of starting fluid down her gullet and she started right up like she had somewhere to go. Had an occasional miss and a high idle. Died after a high-rev, but started again. Did not want to stay idling long. Let it sit a couple weeks and topped off the coolant and repeated. Dies after a few minutes of idling and the low-coolant light flashes despite there being plenty. I think there's a thread on here on how to bypass that/wire it off... anyway...

Small adrenaline rush when I went to re-orient it in my driveway. I have a brick fence with a small opening for the drive, and blocked both of my other cars in during this maneuver, only to discover it would not go into any gear and was stuck there. Luckily after several shift attempts I managed to finagle it into gear(s) and got it where I needed it. Diff lock is always engaged and you can read more about that in the previously mentioned thread. Disconnect battery negative and allowed it to winter-in-place for a couple of months.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
832 Posts
The rear axels are very easy to remove..,
The front are easy also just not as easy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Brave man, good luck. Well done - just think meth has spent all that money already and you still have the truck!:ROFLMAO:
Ha! Good point... and hopefully added some value.

Got to start spending some time on it Saturday, finally. It started right up with a dose of starter fluid after sitting in the cold for a couple months. It did not die but I only let it idle 20 minutes or so and didn't rev it much. Added half a can of this: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/b-12-chemtool-3100/chemicals---fluids-16461/maintenance-chemicals-16867/fuel-system-16569/fuel-injection-cleaner-17693/6379776f4510/berryman-b-12-chemtool-carburetor-fuel-system-and-injector-cleaner/0116/2579433/2000/chevrolet/tahoe?brand=true&pos=2 to the fuel mix just because I had some laying around.

Also:

Ripped the back carpet out:
283989

283990

The boot (😂) floor was surprisingly not rotten. Fully removed the rest of the seat and seat-belt mounts and as much trim as I could rip out. One mouse nest found in one of the seat-latch boxes or whatever are above the rear wheel-wells... or were. Lots of droppings throughout, I will find out if I am immune to hantavirus or not.

Found one more nest under the right front passenger kick-trim (or whatever it is called), and a dead mouse that had been partially eaten by other mice attached to an old comb I found under the passenger seat. Was very tempted to photograph and post with a funny caption, but ultimately passed on the opportunity for the sake of progress. Ripped out passenger floor sound-deadening material, passenger door seals/trim, and the wire to an old-school cellular antenna mounted on the rear window (note the meth-lighter):
283991


Couldn't decide whether to PB Blast the interior of the shifter or brake-parts-cleaner it, but went with the latter so that more debris wouldn't collect and it could be clean at last. Sopped up the pooled amount with shop rags. Also pulled the ancient CD Player, center console and remaining trim, and the CD-changer. Really gonna miss that CD-changer. 😢
283992

283993

Pulled an ancient CB and antenna from the driver's side. I also de-greased under the bonnet (🤣) a bit and hosed it down. Left that to dry.
283994

283995


It was getting dark and my garbage can was way past over-flowing, so I decided to call it a day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Curious about seat removal... It looks like 2 allen's in the front (which are accessible) and 4 in the back, which are not. I am probably going to saws-all through the rear ones unless anyone has any tips on getting these seats out the proper way. Let's assume I don't want to dig around under them much and that they probably have not moved in 10 or 15 years. Any advice?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
832 Posts
Yes do not saw through the bolts...,
Try this first
Unplug the seat controller it is a blue plug...
Apply 12 volt to the pins across from each other + & -.... for one direction
And reverse + & - for opposite direction...
283996

and as for the bolts if they don’t break loose take a sharp punch and tap them
With hammer to loosen... they strip out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Yes do not saw through the bolts...,
Try this first
Unplug the seat controller it is a blue plug...
Apply 12 volt to the pins across from each other + & -.... for one direction
And reverse + & - for opposite direction...
View attachment 283996
and as for the bolts if they don’t break loose take a sharp punch and tap them
With hammer to loosen... they strip out
Ok thank you I will give that a try.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Yes do not saw through the bolts...,
Try this first
Unplug the seat controller it is a blue plug...
Apply 12 volt to the pins across from each other + & -.... for one direction
And reverse + & - for opposite direction...
View attachment 283996
and as for the bolts if they don’t break loose take a sharp punch and tap them
With hammer to loosen... they strip out
Let me tell you my reasoning for wanting to cut:
I have found seats in a LWB in the junkyard that are in good shape for $50 apiece. From some other thread on here I read that those have side-mounted bolts (in the back) and won't be using the same holes. With this reasoning, I was thinking of doing the cuts.

Also, is the blue plug difficult to access? I'm not sure it is worth digging through the filth when chances are the motors don't work anymore and/or the tracks are rusted/grimed into an immobile state.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Ok I was sh*tting rivers at noon so called in sick and made some progress late this afternoon. Front two bolts came out easy enough and I bought a saws-all to get through the rest. It basically did nothing. So, I thought of a better way:
284069
284070
284071


It did not work. Just dragged the rover down the driveway... Shear strength on two little allen screws is rediculous. However, it exposed enough underbelly that I was able to use a grinder with a cutoff disc to free one, and the final one released with a bunch of twisting and man-handling. Will probably take Mikieman's advice on the driver's. Worth the effort to see if it will spare the effort.


284072

After all this, and discovering how heavy these seats are while hauling this one to my dumpster, I have decided to not go with factory seats. I will find some racing buckets with manual controls. This will never be a luxury vehicle again... why have luxury seats?

Also ground out the rivets and removed some trim and that useless shelf from out of the rear:
284073

Call it a day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
832 Posts
Custom-anation at its best...
There’s a tree growing out of the tailgate.
And moveing the seat forward and backwards does seem to help getting to the bolts...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I threw the parcel shelf away. I will be posting future unwanted parts in the for sale section, however... Prior to their inevitable trip to the dumpster. Got some more demo done over the weekend...

This looks a lot better in its new home:
284558

And luckily the motor still worked and I was able to use Mikieman's trick to expose the allen screws and removal was much easier than the passenger seat. I should not have been so stubborn.

Quite a blurry mess:
284559


Got a few drain-holes to deal with:
284560


Cluster surround was broken, so away it goes:
284561

I'll need to figure out a steering wheel replacement.

These I will keep and attempt to re-cover:
284562

I may also need to re-locate their mounts if this becomes the convertible I intend it to be. I haven't thought that far ahead.
This gave me some trouble until I figured out that I needed to pull it from the rear, then it slid right out:
284563

That had to be 35 or 40 lbs by itself. Dead weight, for this rig.
With it gone:
284564


And all cleaned up:
284565

284566

284567
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top