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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Time to do the front end. Over the last year I’ve felt it getting loose and wayward so we had a detailed look up on the hoist with a bright torch and a hefty lever. Here's the list:

Two ball joints cactus, one on the way out, with one OK (I'll get all four done).
Tie rod end (on the drag link) a bit sloppy.
Front radius arm front bushes all shot to pieces.
Front radius arm rear bushes - condition indeterminate.
Steering damper looks original
Stabiliser bar D-bushes all soft.
Stabiliser bar drop links a bit loose.
I will get all of them done.

The Panhard rod and track rod ball joints all appear to be in good condition.

Anyone like to chime in with advice on anything else down there that should be done at the same time?

Thanks from Tom
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #4
I've been talking to Chris by PM, weighing up whether I can do all this work myself. I've got time on my hands and don't mind doing it ; I'm just wondering if I can handle it all.

That Norwegian guy 'work on P38' (love that guy's accent) on YouTube takes off the axle and hub as one piece. Is it necessary to remove the axle first from the hub?

The only place where I think I might get stuck is shifting the hub carrier off the ball joints - I don't mind buying any tool but it looks like they can get stuck on there really tight and I worry I won't be able to shift it off, even with Chris' 32 oz ball pein hammer...

Any further encouragement appreciated

Tom
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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i done my ball joints when i first picked up the rover . it's not a hard job just takes time you will need a 3/4 drive socket to undo the axle nut ,2 bolts on the brake caliper 4 bolts on the hub assembly from memory, and then its remove the ball joints, bottom joint is a pain . do not move the adjuster collet on the bottom joint. i placed a jack under the bottom ball joint and tapped both sides off the housing at the same time until it let go
PS if you have to move the collet measure it so it goes back in the same spot or your axle seal will leak.
if you need a ball joint removal kit i brought a cheap kit off ebay about $80
 

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You can keep intact hub assembly and axle as one piece. So, you only need to remove the 4 bolts from the backside of the hub assembly and keep the axle nut intact.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks to everyone

Along with the significant tramlining effect I'm getting, which is starting to feel dangerous, and the general looseness and rattles up the front, there's a bit of a shake at speed - over 80 km/h. Strange thing is I don't feel it through my seat or the frame of the car or the wheel - it's the passenger seat that vibrates at about 4 - 5 Hz. I'll wait until I do the front end to see if it goes away. I just had all the unis on the driveshafts greased so I don't think it's that causing it.

Any ideas?

Tom
 

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4-5 Hz at around 80-90 kph equates to the wheel rotations. Unbalanced rear wheels will cause it.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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inspect the universal and shaft above the steering box for looseness needs to be tight no slop. the forgotten piece.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I did my front end last year. I would also like to publically thank chris no 10 who talked me through it over the phone.
Top and bottom ball joints needed a special tool. I bought a Chinese one on Ebay. However I still needed a spacer machining to be able to use it.
Panhard rod bushes are easy to replace if needed. I also replaced the whole track rod and drag link instead of bothering replacing ball joints.
Radius arm bushes need a special tool though some would argue otherwise. I found an Indy that had it and he didn't charge much. Use OEM bushes all round. Don't use poly.
On the axles change the oil seals as a matter of course. You can check the wheel bearings when the hub is off and you spin it in your hands. With hindsite, If they are OK I wouldn't replace them.
OEM wheel bearings are Timken double roller bearings. New hubs are expensive. You can get cheaper aftermarket hubs but the bearings will just be ball bearings that don't last.
I ended up making a hydraulic press and that involves considerably more work. I replaced all four bearings with new Timken roller bearings when it probably wasn't necessary on the back hubs.
Only tricky jobs are adjusting the hub ball joint alignment so the half shaft runs true in the axle oil seal. I fitted new adjusters.
The special tool costs an arm and a leg. Make up a spacer or maybe try and do it by eye?
The tracking needs to be adjusted when all the work is complete. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
4-5 Hz at around 80-90 kph equates to the wheel rotations. Unbalanced rear wheels will cause it.
That's strange. I had new tyres a year or so ago from a dealer I trust. Time to check the balance again. It's definitely not the front wheels - I know what that feels like in the hand.

Uni joints and shaft above steering box - I will check. I think there's slop there. I need to adjust the box anyway.

I'll also add a big thank you to ChrisNo10. I've been talking to him by PM and he's been encouraging.

THANKS all.

Tom
 

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and to reiterate Dave's advice, do not fit poly bushes unless you want dodgy handling and intend doing them again in a few months time when they turn to mush.
 

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ok Atticus now that they have added a $1000 dollars to your job you may need to think about it . wheel bearings in aust are $350 dollars ea plus seal 40 dollars plus nut $20 or you can order them from england for around $200 dollars the lot(comes as a kit) as for replacing ball joints , only one is replaceable as the other end is attached to the shaft . once again you will find out that you most likely will not be able to purchase as a complete item , all seperate pieces ? i bought mine from england , that's both arms with delivery and it was still cheaper than one in pieces
PS if you have a choice pick the lemforder brand, OEM parts
PSS wheel bearings are not an easy fix. you may have to pay someone else to do them .( press them out that is)
i done this 3 years ago as reference to prices , so most likely dearer now.
 

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I wouldn't change the wheel bearings unless they are noisy or have play in them. I'm just short of 400k miles and none of the wheel bearings have been changed (or not in the 200k I've done in it anyway). +1 on Lemforder and you can get the complete assembly Track Rod Assembly (OEM) TIQ000020G Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order. and Drag Link Assy Right-hand Drive OEM QHG000060G Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.. For ball joints you are going to need top and bottom Ball Joint Front Lower (Lemforder) FTC3571G Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order. and Ball Joint Front Upper (Lemforder) FTC3570G Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order. and bushes Front & Rear Panhard Rod Bush (Genuine) ANR3671 RBX101340LR Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order. (or you can take a punt on Britpart at a tenth of the price), Front Radius Arm Bush ANR3332G Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order. and https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/front-radius-rear-bush-genuine-anr2563lr-p-7445.html.

That'll tighten it up nicely.....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
An update.

Firstly a huge thanks to everyone for their help. I was all set to get ordering then a few factors coalesced - winter encroaching, no sheltered space to work on it, then I injured my left shoulder on a reno project.

So I took it to Pat in Drysdale, Vic - he's the bomb LR mechanic who I really trust. One of those guys who doesn't advertise or appear anywhere. If you don't know his number you can't find him.

I had no cause for concern about the wheel bearings. Just thought they should be checked while the axles are out. He's doing the front diff seal and the valve cover gaskets too.

Getting it back on Thursday. I'll report.

Should be a different car. Still concerned about the LF shaking - I'll get the rear wheels balanced and swap the wheels front to back and take it from there.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I got it back a couple of weeks ago - drives like a brand new boat. All the clunking and rattles are gone, including the low frequency shake.

Most importantly, it doesn't wander under braking and tracks true on a straight flat road. I still feel I'm having to fight it though; when I correct it feels like I'm over-correcting.

My guy tightened up the steering box but I think too much; when I got it back the wheel wasn't centring like it did before so I backed it off. There's now a lot of play in the steering; could it be that just haven't found the sweet spot in the adjustment? Tiny adjustments on that box seem to make a big difference.

Just to recap, I've got new ball joints, drag link tie rod end, radius arm bushes, steering damper, stabiliser bar bushes and drop link, new second-hand rear radius arms (still clunking a bit - I'm going to modify the old pair by drilling the rivets and replacing them with bolts).

Can anyone help me with a methodical way to diagnose the steering issue?

I've had the alignment done and all four wheels balanced.

Thanks - Tom
 

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Steering box adjustment needs the tiniest of movement. Remember when you tighten the lock nut it will pull the adjuster back very slightly, so needs fractionally more to take account of that.
 

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did they replace the big rubber mounts on the other end of the radius arms, they go soft and interfere with the steering?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'll have to look. I'm pretty sure he replaced them, yes.

If not that would explain it; the diff moving around would affect the steering. Need to get rid of all that play first and check my steering column uni joints too.
 

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Regarding the steering box adjustment, I would put the front of the car up on axle stands so the front wheels are clear of the ground. That way it will be a lot easier to feel for any play in the steering.
Screw the steering adjuster in or out as required until any backlash is just taken out. As Richard says tightening the locknut will alter it slightly.
 
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