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Its Ball joint time again (with the hub from hell!)

2K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  Argos69 
#1 ·
Hi folks,

Any and all non-dynamite suggestions are welcome.

I'm getting to the final stages of the old girl's restoration and been putting off the ball joints for a while.

I made a start yesterday and boy oh boy. If the ball joints are as difficult as actually getting to them, I might need therapy!

I discovered the level of rust around the hub area is such that the hexagons on the four 15mm hub bolts were 14mm-to- round. So a bolt extractor bit was required for 2 of them. But! Now I'm totally stumped trying to free the hub itself. The ABS sensor fought me too, but I got it eventually.

After replacing the exhaust system, the suspension bags & shocks and the entire braking system, I'm not giving up now... I got the press kit for changing the ball joints, but I've got to get to them first.

I'm guessing the rust has had it's way, so that the hub is seized good and solid.

I've drenched everything in penetrating oil and tapped around the edge to no avail.

So, before I drown my sorrows with whisky (my own preferred "penetrating oil") :) Can you guys suggest something please?

As an immaculate 74000 mile vogue with lots of new bits, it's still worth it, despite the backache!

Thanks in advance
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#2 ·
When I did mine they were frozen what seemed to be solid like yours. If you still have the old rotors bolt one of those back on and give it a few good raps with a small 2-3 lb. sledge hammer. That worked to free mine up. If that is not an option starting the old hub bolts back in a few turns and then hitting the heads with the same hammer might work. Almost certainly you will need new CV boots after this attempt though.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the replies.
After Richard's tip I bolted an old disc on and kept bashing! After a 1mm gap appeared I used a bolster chisel round the threaded webs on the flange, one thump each, clockwise. After a further hour it suddenly came out! Hoo-f@cking-ray!
Instead of quitting while I'm ahead and hitting the bottle (friday night!), I started work on the Track rod removal. Well, like everything else on the car, it fought back! Lock nut nearly off, then joint separated and it just spins. The useless hex socket is too shallow, so that just spins too. Might get the nut splitter out tomorrow!
:rolleyes:

Yep, when I'm finished it'll be like a brand new P38 Vogue and all for the price of about 3 new ones!
 
#5 ·
Thanks Bob, I thought of hitting the bolts, but I guessed I'd mash the boot or an air suspension pipe or abs cable etc etc! Every job seems to lead to another two! I blame British salty winter roads for the rust! Thanks for your help.
 
#6 ·
Argos - on the TRE, you can probably tighten the taper joint up again - get some plusgas on the thread (or even better, a die) and then wind the nut off with an impact wrench ie faster than the nut can turn the thread
 
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#7 ·
If I've got new track rods to go on I rarely bother trying to undo the nuts as 9 times out of 10 the same happens as you found, the nut tightens on the bit of thread that's been exposed to the elements and breaks the taper. I just use the angle grinder with a thin cutting blade and slice straight up the thread so it cuts the nut in half. Gentle tap with a hammer and chisel and the two halves of the nut fall off.
 
#8 ·
Day 3...:cry:
Beginning to develop sense of regret in starting the job.
After my new larger pickle fork arrived by Am@zon today, I was able to remove the hub carrier.
So, now I'm staring at the swivel joints. Top one all but completely seized, bottom one wobblier than a jelly with 5mm of play!

After 2 hours annoying the neighbours it still looks much the same. Clamp kit bought specially for the job is as tight as I can get it. Plusgas has evaporated in the heat of half a can of MAP gas and repeated hammer blows have all failed.

Thank God I've got work tomorrow, to take my mind off it!

My Wife offered help in the form of "Have you still not got it sorted?".....Bless her, I wonder if you can still buy quicklime?

Ok, thinking outside the toolbox.... Has anyone ever used an angle grinder to carefully cut away the top hat and did it help in any way?

I've now signed a form to say that if I buy another P38 I have to be committed to an asylum!
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#9 ·
i've never heard of them being that stuck. They are extremely tight. Do you have the correct sized ring/cup at the top and pusher cup at the bottom (for the top one) and opposite for bottom one? They go with a bang when they eventually let go. Providing you have the tools lined up properly, wind it on with a breaker bar (i needed my full body weight to move it before it let go). I think i had to do the top one first then the bottom one as the tool has to fit thru the top hole (or mine did at least).
 
#11 ·
Hi J_rov & thanks for the replies. Yes, that would have been funny, pushing them the wrong way :LOL:

Well, the day has ended better than it began. Clamp tool back on. Anti-shrapnel tea towel wrapped around joint. 24" breaker bar on socket and pull with all my might! "Crack!" it started moving!!! Oh boy, I knew that a pint or so of cold stuff would help the process...

Well, at the end of the day, the old joints are sitting on the bench and the shiny new ones are on the car.

I'll restore the hub carrier before it goes back on and will avoid moving the dreaded adjustment bush.

Will update once something else happens (hopefully good!).🤞

Big thank you for all help & advice.
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#13 ·
Captain's Log etc etc.... It's finally complete! In 34C, (in the North West of England, really!!!!).
New ball joints, new air springs, shock absorbers, exhaust, cv boot, callipers, pads, discs and mud shields! Phew!
Thanks Rob, When I've finished, I'm going to put a hand grenade in a tin of Hammerite under the car and give everything a coating!
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