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Discussion Starter #1
I ordered a couple struts from island 4x4 LR032560 and LR032567 for my 2010 SC full size. They seem to be good, but package came a bit rough. They came in about 1 week to the midwest USA and cost $950 including shipping. Mine have been going down to the bump stops in the cold and figured I would replace both. 75k miles. I will put them on when it gets a bit warmer unless they go before then. Any tips appreciated for the installation!

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2013-2015 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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You've probably already done this project. What you have received looks identical to the ones I received from Arnott.

There are only two "tricks" that I encountered:

1. Sometimes removing the very large bolts can be tricky. The problem isn't removing the nut, it's that the bolt becomes seized in the housing and even with a lot of banging you can't move it. Out of 4 bolts total for both of the fronts, I only had this issue on one. I ended up using penetrating oil, leaving it sit and then more banging and it finally moved. You can end up distorting the end of the bolt, so keep the nut on while you are banging.

2. Getting the struts back up in place and secured under the hood can be tricky to do alone. It requires a jack to push the entire wheel housing up and at the same time aligning the guide pin.
 

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All 4 of my strut bolts were rusted and stuck (its a common issue) and the first one took hours of banging and BP Blaster. I found a lot easier way of getting them out. I used a ball-joint-u-joint-press (c-press) tool which the auto part store rents. The next 3 bolt just press out in a few minutes, I still sprayed BP Blaster on them an hour prior to pressing them out.

 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I suspect that thats the result of Customs inspecting these as my struts were also less than perfectly packaged.
I did the same as you and got my struts from Island 4x4
DC111 = Dow Corning Molycoat found on amazon

before you start get a tube of DC111 this is for the o ring seals ,
your new struts come with a new collar nut this has 2 O rings in it. as well as a new wedge fitting that holds the air line in the nut.
Carefully remove the metal lock collar off the air line, spread it with small flat blade screwdriver,
then clean the line then smear the DC111 on the line then fit the new collar nut and wedge fitting.
Pay attention to how far the line protrudes from the wedge fitting.
I used a air gun with a imp[act socket to break the stuck bolts free.

I also recommend that you buy the 8 piece front end control arm kit ,
I got mine for about 225.00,
it has new lower control arms and rear lower control arms,
the pivot BJs and new sway bar links.

NOTE tighten all of the control arm pivot bolts when the truck is at regular ride height so you dont damage the new bushings..
I drove it up on ramps and tightened the 4 bolts.
NOTE my control arm bolts were rusty due to water filling the control arm bushings,
you might consider getting two of these they are the 103mm X 14MM bolts for the forward control arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I haven't done it yet. Where do I add the DC111? Also any other odd tools I need or should get?

Is it easier to replace the control arms while doing the air suspension? I haven't had any issues with those so I hesitate to do it unless it makes it way easier.

Thanks everyone!
 

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The DC111 is a silicone lubricant paste like vaseline,
except it keeps rubber soft so it keeps on sealing and wont evaporate
Use this on any rubber product to keep it soft and pliable also works great on the cooling hose O rings.

Since your working on the front end its easy to swap in the control arms after you have replaced the front shocks.
Most of these parts are worn at the bushings and new parts will restore the front end.
 
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