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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure what a good one is supposed to look like but I thought someone might know.

As they say a picture is worth a thousand words.



I have rebuilt my compressor, valve block, re-did the white connections behind hood release panel, cleaned every connection from the EAS under the seat to the Box Under the hood, checked for leaks (none found), unhooked the timer and no movement overnight. With the door open engine running the compressor will come on for a bit then stay off, close the door and drive and it will cycle on and off (on about 2-3 minutes at a time, off for about 5-10 minutes then start all over) I'm wondering if the driver module is going bad?
 

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looks ok, but your symptoms are more like (mildly) leaky springs, or you need a calibration. try the cal first, it's free (basically).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks,I'll give it a try.
 

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Looks like a old style one BUT it depends.

On the plug there is sticker (in your pic) it gives year and month when it was made.
So far EAS drivers that are more than 8 years old or 200 000kms seem to act up but again not always.
I've seen them go after 3 years is my best record on customers cars so far
Dodgy transistors within the driver from heat is the main cause
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The sticker did say 2000...hmmm :think:
 

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You'll also find when its cold it behaves and operates like it should.....until it gets hot

Be sure to recheck for leaks EVERYWHERE, this includes spraying air bellows on top where the pipes go in even if you have replaced those O rings.
Sometimes it will leak between the brass insert and the top piston plastic and replacement is needed.

I get this often due to faulty bellows even when new and that includes the Arnott's
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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viperover said:
Looks like a old style one BUT it depends.

On the plug there is sticker (in your pic) it gives year and month when it was made.
So far EAS drivers that are more than 8 years old or 200 000kms seem to act up but again not always.
I've seen them go after 3 years is my best record on customers cars so far
Dodgy transistors within the driver from heat is the main cause
Here's one from which I've removed most of the resin. Click on the pic for a larger image.

 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hey Ron how did you remove the resin from the driver? :think:
 

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Scotty said:
Hey Ron how did you remove the resin from the driver? :think:
Slowly! I dug it out - that's why it isn't the cleanest.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
viperover said:
You'll also find when its cold it behaves and operates like it should.....until it gets hot
That may be it, I drove it last night after it had cooled down and no problems.

I have checked all connections with soapy water,(just short of parking the rover in a swimming pool of soapy water) maybe the line to the holding tank has gotten a hole rubbed in it somewhere. I am going to put a pressure gauge on the tank this week.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
JeremyD said:
Have you tested the temp switch in the compressor? Tuned out mine was not workin giving me all sorts of problems
Actually replaced it when I rebuilt the pump, the infernal plastic ring had cut the solder joint between the temp switch and the brush board and was giving an intermittent open, once I replaced and re-soldered, I had good continuity.
 

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Good lord Ron, you've spent more money in time on that than a new one would cost. I gave up after 15 minutes.....
 

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shupack said:
Good lord Ron, you've spent more money in time on that than a new one would cost. I gave up after 15 minutes.....
I was given it to play with and digging it out filled in those long quiet nights on the graveyard shift at work. :thumb:

Surprisingly, it came out relatively easily and often in big pieces.
 

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p38arover said:
shupack said:
Good lord Ron, you've spent more money in time on that than a new one would cost. I gave up after 15 minutes.....
I was given it to play with and digging it out filled in those long quiet nights on the graveyard shift at work. :thumb:

Surprisingly, it came out relatively easily and often in big pieces.

Darn you partially beat me to it as I completly removed from steel housing and still stripping both sides , I found soaking it in thinners over night made it really soft and easy to dig out.

The transistors in question are the smaller ones, also note the numerous timer ICs on the board and my guess is these have gone south causing pulse times to be too long..
 

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viperover said:
p38arover said:
shupack said:
Good lord Ron, you've spent more money in time on that than a new one would cost. I gave up after 15 minutes.....
I was given it to play with and digging it out filled in those long quiet nights on the graveyard shift at work. :thumb:

Surprisingly, it came out relatively easily and often in big pieces.

Darn you partially beat me to it as I completly removed from steel housing and still stripping both sides , I found soaking it in thinners over night made it really soft and easy to dig out.

The transistors in question are the smaller ones, also note the numerous timer ICs on the board and my guess is these have gone south causing pulse times to be too long..
I dont suppose the timers are as simply as the old NE555 are they? :pray:
 

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John W said:
I dont suppose the timers are as simply as the old NE555 are they? :pray:
I went looking for the module today. Do you think I could find it in the garage. :(

I'll look again tomorrow.
 

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Right! Found it.

ICs LM2903P
Power transistors: IRF520N
others (I'll edit the pic later to show which are which):
BC546A NPN GP transistor
BC556A PNP GP transistor
2VN3310A MosFets
 

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p38arover said:
Right! Found it.

ICs LM2903P
Power transistors: IRF520N
others (I'll edit the pic later to show which are which):
BC546A NPN GP transistor
BC556A PNP GP transistor
2VN3310A MosFets
The numbers all look generic,so should be available for repair.I think the LM2903 is a regulator or comparator IIRC.
 

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Yes, all are readily available from RS Components or Farnell.
 
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