Brought her home today and already have a list of things started.
1 ABS Accumulator (orderred £18)
2. Lights on dash which are on. Anyone got a pic of them with what each one means?
3. Paint and underseal the newly welded sill (just red oxide atm)
4 Swap over top tail gate with one supplied with her
5 Now this is an odd on. She stopped at the traffic lights on the way back. The water was low and I think due to this the LPG was not working properly. Took a while to get restarted and I had to use the hazards. Now when I start her they come on even though the button is off, any ideas?
6 She did start to get warm but did not go into the red so I am hopeing all will be OK, there is no leaking water visible under her. so I need to do a comp test.
I am sure I will be back soon with more news but for now I am off to read your leccy section.
Brought her home today and already have a list of things started.
1 ABS Accumulator (orderred £18)
2. Lights on dash which are on. Anyone got a pic of them with what each one means?
3. Paint and underseal the newly welded sill (just red oxide atm)
4 Swap over top tail gate with one supplied with her
5 Now this is an odd on. She stopped at the traffic lights on the way back. The water was low and I think due to this the LPG was not working properly. Took a while to get restarted and I had to use the hazards. Now when I start her they come on even though the button is off, any ideas?
6 She did start to get warm but did not go into the red so I am hopeing all will be OK, there is no leaking water visible under her. so I need to do a comp test.
I am sure I will be back soon with more news but for now I am off to read your leccy section.
I can help with question 4 as mine is LPG'd, if it's low on coolant then it will effect the LPG side of things; as the reducer needs a constant flow of coolant to turn the liquified gas into a gas that the engine can use as fuel, my Rangie does use a drop of coolant from time to time, I put this down to the LPG system
Just been out there for a while and some of the lights are now out. I think the low coolant thing may be a bit more serious and if it is I am truly up the creek without a paddle. Looking underneath I can see coolant dripping down from the rear area of the engine on the passenger side. The coolant seems to be dropping quite fast as well. Dipped the oil and that has a slight creamyness so maybe water in there as well. Exaust is putting out white steam/smoke. So I guess my next question is. How hard is it to replace a head gasket on the nearside (can you do only one?)?
Feel very deflated now as I put my savings into this and was looking forward to fixing the accumilator and enjoyng the ride as she has MOT untill next May. Better start ray:
Just been out there for a while and some of the lights are now out. I think the low coolant thing may be a bit more serious and if it is I am truly up the creek without a paddle. Looking underneath I can see coolant dripping down from the rear area of the engine on the passenger side. The coolant seems to be dropping quite fast as well. Dipped the oil and that has a slight creamyness so maybe water in there as well. Exaust is putting out white steam/smoke. So I guess my next question is. How hard is it to replace a head gasket on the nearside (can you do only one?)?
Feel very deflated now as I put my savings into this and was looking forward to fixing the accumilator and enjoyng the ride as she has MOT untill next May. Better start ray:
I've never changed a head gasket on a Rangie (have done a mini one though) I have taken the plenum chamber off etc., and the exhaust manifolds, not that difficult really, get yourself a Haynes manual and have a go. I think it'd be best to do both head gaskets, whilst you've got the plenum off
Look at it this way, you have until next May to get all the jobs done, little or big :thumb: plus you get the satisfaction of doing the jobs yourself and knowing they're done properly.
Yep, the head gaskets aren't as scary as they sound (and I'm no mechanic!). Removing everything to get to them is pretty simple- just go slowly & make sure you mark out/photograph where every last hose and bolt goes. Haynes describes it well enough.
Nice rangie by the way- just had to get rid of mine & having withdrawal symptoms!
Does anyone happen to know how to stop the hazards flashing? I turn the ignition on and 10 seconds later they start flashing and will not go off. They seem to flash, flash pause, flash, flash pause, and not just flash continuous like normal (switch is off btw) The LSE does not have the diagnostic panel.
I have tried taking the battery off for 15mins and reconnecting.
I think the hazards may be to do with the inertis switch though it still locks the doors and starts. I have tried disconnecting the battery so where do I find the switch? Looked behind passenger side kick panel (the one on the door side of the footwell but nothing except wires and a couple of relays there. Also looked under the tray of the centre glove box same result.
Does anyone happen to know how to stop the hazards flashing? I turn the ignition on and 10 seconds later they start flashing and will not go off. They seem to flash, flash pause, flash, flash pause, and not just flash continuous like normal (switch is off btw) The LSE does not have the diagnostic panel.
I have tried taking the battery off for 15mins and reconnecting.
Finally managed to find the location after lots of searching on the web eventualy came accross a mention of it on another forum. If you're interested the Inertia switch on Range Rover Classics is located under the passenger seat and can be accessed fromthe back seat. If you look just the other side of the box section on the right hand side under the (UK) passenger seat there is a little black box with a button that you can pull out (red stalk). I pulled it out and pushed it back and so far it seems to have cured it Whoohoo.
Next the head I suppose... that may be a few weeks away though.
OK going to order the gaskets and bolts. Now the V5C(W) says the engine number is 40D so from that can anyone tell if it is a three row of bolts head or a two row of bolts head as there are different gaskets and bolts for both. If anyone has part numbers for the sets it would be great
Forgot to mention she seems to have a custom headlining with a built in DVD screen all the wiring for wich is under the passenger seat and glove box. Wonder what fed it? Make id Toad.
Good news is I have the answer from the specialist gasket supplier.
Hello,
If the engine number is definitely correct you will require the 3 row item
The 14 bolt head runs to engine no 40D09581B
The bolts on this engine are not the stretch type so if not damaged there is no need to change them.
Hmmm. Not sure it would make much usefull difference. Might even weeken it.
Well the head set I orderred yesterday afternoon arrived this afternoon :dance:
Brilliant service and it looks a top notch set as well. Very comprehensive. Booked her in for next Wednesday to be sorted. So here's ray:
92 SWB 3.9 with LT230 and TruTack in the front and Detroit in the rear. Sometimes under acceleration but certainly on deceleration at highway speed I get a little torque steer. I thought it might be due to: swivel balls, pan hard bushings, pan hard rod length, tie rod ends, so I replaced all the...
Hi,
I own a 1993 RRC Vogue, 3,9litres; however cannot drive it since a few months since the air suspension does not work.
I’ve been searching for a used spare part, but so far without success. (New one is about 3.000 USD)
Two questions:
- any idea where I could get a working 2nd hand spare...
Hi all, I originally got my Vogue 4 weeks ago after been legally off the road since 2012. About 3 weeks ago I started to have an inconsistent idle and was told it was the AFM and so gave it a quick clean with brake cleaner, this didn’t fix the issue but I just put up with it. I then replaced the...
We’re a community forum to discuss and assist on issues with every Range Rover model. Sign up if you have a question, answer or to meet like minded individuals
