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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2007 model TDV8 Vogue in the UK. Recently it has sometimes been difficult to start.

Normally it starts on the first turn of the key, but now if left for a few hours it sometimes needs to be turned back off and then on again, sometimes up to 5 times. When I turn the key to the starter position nothing happens, lights are still on but the starter motor doesn't engage.

On a number of occasions when this has happened, after starting I get a warning "Transmission Problem, traction reduced". After starting the car appears perfect with no problems what so ever. When the starter motor engages it turns over very fast, so I don't believe there is a problem with the battery.

I took it to the LR dealer, they had it for 2 days, tested it, checked all the fault codes, and as expected there was "no fault found", they said the only error code of significance was a low battery voltage, so they charged it. Luckily it is on an extended warranty but I can imagine this going on for some time because of the interrmittent nature of the fault.

3 days after getting it back from the dealer it was parked in the sun for the morning(I know we don't see much of that in the UK) and when I tried to start it took 4 or 5 attempts, and then came up with the transmission warning.

My thoughts are along the line of a problem with the gearbox ECU, probably reporting the box is not in Park so it overrides the starter.

Can anyone confirm this is a likely hypothesis, or suggest any other possibilities.

I'm starting to get really annoyed with it and the dealer now, so need some good advice to calm me down.

Any thoughts or help gratefully received.

Regards
Steve
 

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I've just bought a 2007 TDV8 so interested in the issue.

My experience is with the P38 and I have had plenty of issues with that which is why I now have the newer model after 13 years of the love hate relationship we come to expect. Anyway, my experience from the P38 is that anything to do with low voltage or transmission or gearbox faults is battery related. I would swap out the old battery for a new one. Also check out the voltage from the alternator.

If the new battery and alternator diagnostics don't do it then maybe you're right about the gearbox ecu etc.. Just check out the electrics first.

All the best
I'm also Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply.

The battery and alternator are fine, I'm an electronic engineer so have done the usual tests on the battery already,
even before I took it in to the dealer, thats why I made the comment about the dealer saying they had a low voltage error, they are all liars as usual.

The "Master Technician" took it on an overnight test drive of about 150 miles (Just in case he found a starting problem!), and managed to leave a load of Gunk all along both near side doors, which managed to survive their valet before I picked it up.

I only took it to the dealer because it still has a LR warranty, but I think I'll stick to using an indie in future.

Hope your new TDV8 turns out to be a good un.

Regards,
Steve
 

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I just replaced another battery that was only 4 months old. Mine would be strong as long as I drove it often, or charged it. But if it sat for any period of time (variable) it'd die or "go flat". The battery dealer checked with a load test weeks ago & said it was a bit under, but should've been fine. Finally fed-up with jumping the truck after it would set a few days, I went back to the battery dealer again.
He quickly replaced the battery, and when mine was removed, we checked the acid in the removed battery. He found 2 dead cells! It didn't show on the load test too much because the alternator did a great job of charging the battery on the way to the shop. But as it would set idle, the 4 good cells would try to level-out the 2 bad ones, which would just drain the 4 good ones until power was too low.
So, even though I'm an engineer myself (reliability & Product support, specifically) I will be buying myself an inexpensive battery acid test bulb for future use.
I replaced the Final Stage resistor on failth from experienced forum posts, but that was a waste of $90 U.S.

I've also experienced very odd electronic system faults in my Rover from a plain old bad battery connection.

Don't you have 2 batteries, being diesel?
 

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Battery, Battery, Battery, well that or a bad ground somewhere.
I decided to stop the instanity and replace my battery with a Odyssey PC2150. It is a tight fit, but no more problems with starting, and the HID starting problem has dereased significantly. If you do put an Odyssey 2150 in, make sure and get a slightly longer ground cable as well.

I used to get several strange dead starts about once a week or so. Turning the key back off and then trying again would usually trigger the starter sequence to engage. The new battery has completely eliminated these dead start attempts. I have not had a bad start in over 5 months. The old battery, while new, had a bad cell and a weak cell. I assume that the handfull of battery drains caused by strange electrical gremlins, killed the old battery fairly quick.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the replies, but it is definitely not the battery.

I've been continuing my investigation, and testing and I'm now convinced, as before that it is a fault in the transmission ECU (Maybe a faulty power or ground connection).

Over the last few days, whenever it doesn't start, I put the key in position 2 and cycle through PRND and back, then it starts on the next try every time, this suggests that there is a lockout from the transmission disabling starting because the ECU thinks it is in gear.

I'm going to take it back to the Stealer in a couple of weeks, once I've got enough evidence for them to replace and test the ECU.

Regards,
Steve
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Here is a video I found that represents the problem - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ps2WU7sVjc

In my situation, It started about a year ago - the 1st time was in the fall when the temperature had dropped about 25-30 degrees over night. In the AM when I went to start the RR I heard a click and nothing happened. I turned the ket back to the accessory position and retried ... same issue. After fully turning the key back to the "off" position and retrying, it started.

This went on intermittently over the past year. It would typically occur when it became a bit cool at night, but in the last few months it started getting worse.
Originally, if I turned the key back to the off position, it would always start on the second try. Recently it gotten to the point where I would have to try several times before it would start. Additionally, when it first started, once the car was warm, the problem would never occur again. Recently there were a few occasions that I had driven somewhere, let the car sit for about 30 mins and it wouldn't start again.

Here's what I had tried to resolve the issue:
Last winter, I had received a code (can't recall the error) which I read could be the battery (and it also addresses the issue I was experiencing)- so I installed one of the new "Gel Cell" batteries. Unfortunately, the problem persisted.

Being the problem would occur the majority of the time when it cooled down at night, I figured it's probably the starter solenoid. After reading what a chore it is to pull out the starter, I figured it was worth just replacing the starter too. So in went a new Starter and solenoid.

It's been about a month now and it's got pretty cool at night. The good news it has started every single time!
Well worth the $400 for a piece of mind!
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Here is a video I found that represents the problem - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ps2WU7sVjc

In my situation, It started about a year ago - the 1st time was in the fall when the temperature had dropped about 25-30 degrees over night. In the AM when I went to start the RR I heard a click and nothing happened. I turned the ket back to the accessory position and retried ... same issue. After fully turning the key back to the "off" position and retrying, it started.

This went on intermittently over the past year. It would typically occur when it became a bit cool at night, but in the last few months it started getting worse.
Originally, if I turned the key back to the off position, it would always start on the second try. Recently it gotten to the point where I would have to try several times before it would start. Additionally, when it first started, once the car was warm, the problem would never occur again. Recently there were a few occasions that I had driven somewhere, let the car sit for about 30 mins and it wouldn't start again.

Here's what I had tried to resolve the issue:
Last winter, I had received a code (can't recall the error) which I read could be the battery (and it also addresses the issue I was experiencing)- so I installed one of the new "Gel Cell" batteries. Unfortunately, the problem persisted.

Being the problem would occur the majority of the time when it cooled down at night, I figured it's probably the starter solenoid. After reading what a chore it is to pull out the starter, I figured it was worth just replacing the starter too. So in went a new Starter and solenoid.

It's been about a month now and it's got pretty cool at night. The good news it has started every single time!
Well worth the $400 for a piece of mind!
I know this thread is a few months old now, but I can say that a new starter solved my problem as well. My RR did the same thing described in this thread, and a new starter solved the issue. It turns out that the contacts inside the starter get corroded over time and intermittent starting problems creep up. I initially had the contacts cleaned up and that worked for about 3 months, then it started again. I had my mechanic install a factory new DENSO starter and no issues.
 
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