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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All.

My first post, so please be gentle! It's also a long one to try and get out everything that has been happening, so my apologies up front.

Having some problems with our 2006 L322 Range Rover 4.4 HSE. Currently at 143,000 miles.

Only had it a couple of months now. It had some previous accident damage, so had a few bits and pieces to do on it, and got it for a much reduced price because of that. Almost all cosmetic, rather than mechanical. I have previously owned a 2003 L322 4.4 in the UK, so a lot of the layout and issues are very familiar, but some are of course completely alien.

The RR overall has been driving really well, with no mechanical issues that I could see. The current issue started after I decided to change the spark plugs and coils after getting a misfire on cylinder 3. Everything worked fine for a day, but the following morning she wouldn't start for the first 5-6 turns of the key, and was just getting a click. Checked battery connections and wiring, and all looked fine. Started eventually and drove okay, but every day since has been the same - where it it may start first time, or may take up to 10 attempts to start up. I am now getting very hard shifting between gears 1 and 2, both up and down. From my previous experience, I'm thinking (hoping) it's not a transmission problem, but more of a symptom of what is going on, as that started shortly after the startup problem. I am also getting rough idle.

I have run multiple diagnostics on it, to try and eliminate possibilities every time I have chased a ghost or changed something. Initial code from when the problem first manifested was P0340 intermittent for cam position sensor Circuit A. Initially just bank 1, but then bank 2 sometimes as well. I went back through and checked my work, and made sure all connections were right and wiring all looked intact. After ruling out wiring that I could see, I changed our the cam position sensors to see if that would make any difference, which it did not. As I am getting a rough idle as well, I also cleaned up the MAF sensor and throttle body, which made no difference.

I am using a Foxwell NT510. Apart from the P0340 code, it is also now throwing the following codes after driving:

From the vehicle dynamics control module: U0401 Intermittent, "Invalid data received from powertrain control module" and C1-A00 "Control Module"

From the Transmission Control Module: U2023 Temporary, "Fault received from external node"

And lastly U0416 Temporary, "Invalid data received from Vehicle Dynamics control module".

All these codes keep coming back after starting and driving, except for the cam position sensor circuit A code, which comes back after attempting to start a few times, before driving. I have not driven it very much in a couple of weeks now, mainly because of the extremely hard shifting between 1st and 2nd gears.

Now, I have checked all wiring in the engine bay. But yesterday I noticed some water on the passenger well mat, and I'm kicking myself because I know I've seen it before. It's been a pretty wet couple of months in Texas, so I had assumed it was from my passengers getting in and out of the car, but yesterday I noticed it was dripping slowly from underneath and slightly behind the glovebox. After checking the engine compartment again, I see water underneath the battery. So now I have a couple of questions, which I hope someone can help with.

Firstly, I have heard there are some relays and fuses behind the fuse box in the glove box. Could anyone tell me what these are, and whether having water ingress into there could be causing most of my problems? Secondly, how do I get back there behind und under the fuse box to take a look? Is there anything behind the battery as well, which could be affected? I heard there are some components behind the battery panel. I am missing one rubber seal strip on the outboard side of the battery compartment, which I will of course replace, but is there any other place from where the water is likely to be leaking in? Just as a note, it had stormed very heavily the night before the first instance of the starting problems.

Many thanks in advance for any and all assistance.

2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
405 Posts
It's likely that the water leak and timing of these issues is combined.

You stated that there was water leaking into the passenger side area.

There are three large body harness to engine/underhood multiplugs directly behind the lower R/H A post trim which, if the pins become less than perfect, will give you multiple random faults.

Depending on how much H2O leaked into the passenger front cabin, you should also consider ensuring that the cavity under the seat containing the body control module is not showing signs of water ingress.

I would:

Remove the front right door sill trim (pry up) and pull directly backwards on the lower A-post trim.

I'm not sure if the front carpet is a two-piece like on the later models (right and left, split under the HVAC unit) or if it's a one-piece.

If it's a one-piece covering both sides that's a lot more work to remove.

Remove the right front passenger seat and let it lean backwards onto the rear seat cushion.

Remove the lower glovebox.

If the carpet's a one-piece, I'd try and pry it upwards away from the right lower A-post with a prop so I could view the general area behind the carpet and try to assess how the water leaked into the cabin. The "foam" backing on the carpet will likely show signs of water absorption. The foam backing is pre-formed to fit the floor and provides the "stiffness" so it can take some effort to pull it away from it's normal form. You don't want to rip /tear it you just need to use enough force to move it out of the way and use a 12" piece of 2x4 as a prop. It can be a bit reluctant to "work" with you so act accordingly.

I'm not sure where the sunroof drains are on the MY2006 but you might want to look at the RAVE body reference(s) and see if there's a possibility that this was a cause of cabin water ingress after a period of torrential rain.

The body control module under the right front seat, and it's connector plug terminals, should be checked for corrosion onset.

Obviously, it's important to track the cause of the leak so you may want to take a look on you-tube at various methods to determine leaks into passenger compartments.

A smoke machine is the easiest method, FWIW.


3 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Rob, many thanks for your detailed response. I have not had a chance to either log in here or check the RR since initially posting, but will definitely have a go at your recommendations as soon as I can.

I don't think the water ingress on the floor has been any more than just enough to leave a little puddle on the rubber mat, so don't think it would have got back to the BCM under the seat, but it won't hurt to take a look.

Very interesting to hear about these large multiplies under/behind the A post though, which answers my question exactly. I will get back there and take a look as soon as I'm able, and come back with any results.

As for cause of the ingress, I was thinking that might be like trying to catch a genie, apart from hunting down the sunroof drains. However, I drove it a couple of days ago, and noticed I had some dripping in that exact spot under the glove box after using the windscreen washers (no rain) and clearing the windscreen. So I'm guessing this will be more of a windscreen seal strip, or perhaps the seals on the A post trim, which I had replaced a short while ago (the A post or windscreen trim pieces either side of the screen had been missing when I bought it).

Anyway, I will have a proper look,following your guidance, and report back.

Many thanks!
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