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Discussion Starter #1
Hi can anyone help please. Intermittent engine cut-out also intermittent won't start.
Replaced lots of components as advised by dealers & running out of money: fuel pump, crankshaft sensor, fuse box, ignition switch, battery, alternator checked & OK, Electrical fault which seems like a loose wire or connector somewhere. BUT here is the bit none of the "mechanics" seem to have noticed.. Switch the ignition on but don't start engine, there is a buzzing from the area of the alternator, alternator is checked and OK so it's not that. Also occasional crackling like electrical shorting out, and in addition occasional clicking from the same area. Now to me none of these sound right and would suggest intermittent faults in line with my intermittent engine cut-out issue. But here's the thing, when it all goes quiet & there is no buzzing at all - the engine won't start. So what component is in that area that may have a loose connection. Thinking of using a cardboard tube to try to locate it. :think: Thanks in anticipation. Sorry, forgot to say relays have also been swapped out so it's not there.
 

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Hi Nisbeam, it sounds to me like you're talking about my Rangie.

I had a problem of cutting out once before, replacing the fuse box with a second hand one did the trick for several months. the replacement fuse box still had some failings but at least I was on the road again.

I was able to check the starter by running a live to the starter, I later found I could acheive the same test by jumping the relay marked (SM). if you try this, its a good way to boost your confidence as the engine jumps to life. I then traced the problem back to the fuse box, you say you've replaced yours if it was with a second hand one maybe it too has a fault.

Don't get too excited mine ran very well, until only a few minutes after filling up with Gas it "backfired" or "misfired" then a few yards later it slowed to a stop. the engine would crank over very easily but wont fire up. a look under the bonnet found the large rubber air intake hose to the head had a 3inch rip in it. After replacing the hose it took several attempt of cranking before it fired up, once it was ticking over it seemed and drove OK, but if I switched off and tried to restart it took 10-15 minutes of cranking.
Its sat for a few days while I psyced myself up. Before fitting new plugs and leads I thought I'd just try one more time for anything obvious, the battery was then struggling so I put it on charge for a couple of days, when I tried it after it was fully charged it was if the hose was ripped again, and then the came the clicking and then silence. This time I wasn't able to jump the starter, the lights and electric windows worked but it is if the battery is now duff.

Have you checked your battery?
If its good try jumping the starter.
If that works check the sensors are connected and clean I always use switch cleaner available from electrical component shops like Maplins. There is a tricky connection at the back of the engine which I've will disable the engine from firing up if its not connected properly.
The previous time I had a rovercom test done thinking that the ECU's were out of sync, this maybe something you should try, on my test the rovercom didn't help me, it might this time thou, its under £30 to have done so its worth a pop.
Another angle is to get a OBD 11 reader, they are under £20, I used mine it gives me 4 faults P0102, P0443, P0152 and P1138 all are sensors but I'm not sure if they are to do with causing the problem or if the problem has caused them to show as failed?
If any one else can help feel free.
Any road I wish you Luck, let me know how you are getting on.
Regards Olden
 

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Hi Nisbeam,
I meant to suggest you try looking for any electrical shorting when its dark!
Have you got a spark at the plugs?
Regards
Olden
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi Olden and thanks for the tips. Sorry, forgot to mention it's a diesel 2.5DSE so no spark plugs to worry about. The fuse box is brand new, so are all the other parts I listed apart from the alternator which was checked at an auto elec. specialist & is OK.
Checking in the dark sounds especially useful as there are intermittent shorting noises. :idea: This may be just what I need to find out where they are coming from, I'll go out tonight in the dark & report back in the morning
The problem I have had with garages is that they diagnose faulty components and I don't think it is a component as such, but more likely wiring/connections that are loose. 8~
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I checked in the dark, and it showed me..... nothing. However I now think this is because the noises were internal - inside the injector pump. I see there is a solenoid & other parts in there that could have been making the noise. Also today, after running beautifully for some time the engine stopped, and there was a sort of "cyclic buzzing" from the pump, a sort of buzz, buzz, buzz etc. and this only stopped when I switched the ignition off. Switched on again and no buzzing and the engine started first time. So it could be the pump faulty. By the way I have also today chexcked the earth grounding and it is fine.
But I'm not going to spend any more replacing parts until I am sure they will fix the problem (especially an expensive item like the pump). Have just ordered a Faultmate from Black Box as I am resigned to not detecting by any other method now. Thanks again anyway. Will let you know what the Faultmate turns up.
:|
 

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hmm, check with blackbox if the unit you have ordered will register a solenoid problem? Ive had professional diagnostics that end up telling me no more than a monkey could have guessed.

I thought id found the problem when I prized off the drivers side floor panel and lifted the carpet and underlay, to my surprise although the carpet seemed completely dry, under the underlay it was still soaking wet from a leak from the O rings on the internal heater a few months back.

I had the mind to have a close look at the wiring loom which runs under the panel. Bingo! I soon found signs of corrosion of one cable, you might try the same while waiting for your new toy. I soon lost my excitement a on tracing the faulty wire throu I found this had been detected some years before as it had been spliced and rewired.

My problems are getting worse, Ive changed the plugs re-charged the battery, but its no-longer even trying to start. I cant even jump the starter.
Im now going to print off the electrical sticky as posted by "ghind" and follow it to a T. I would not put complete faith in your electric guy who says the electric are working OK.

If your fuse box came from a main dealer i guess they have given you the correct one, as i understand there are about 6 sorts which all look pretty much the same but are not completely compatible with others.

Good Luck to you.
Regards olden
 

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Hey hey, after risking life and limb fumbling around under the tons of metal that rested on the comparantly skinney tiny jack and stands. The old girl fired up! I think it may have been a wiggle I gave to the little earth wire at the starter motor. It now drives Ok but it stll don't want to start again when hot!
I did the electrical sticky test I still haven't checked it against the Reading it should be, that's tomorrows job, tonight I get to drink to my small success.
Cheers
Olden
 
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