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Hey Guys,

First post, and its a DIY!! `) `)

Well I spent the better part of two days getting my 12" JL W7 in the JL High Output Box installed in my 2003 Range Rover HSE. I can take some pictures tomorrow, but for now I am just going to outline the steps and try to save people the hassle I had to endure to figure out which wires to tap :mrgreen:

Okay first off you are going to need a Line Out Converter (LOC) to get the signal from the Line Level (regular old wire) speaker wire and convert it to an RCA input that your amp can use. Now some amps can take speaker level inputs, but they aren't as common or usually as high end.

Getting a signal: My RR has the Harmon Kardon system so what I did was take one of the factory subwoofers out of the enclosure (Driver's Side in the trunk, right past the DVD drive for the GPS) and see what color wires were run to it. Turned out to be a twisted pair of a 'Green' and 'Green & Red' wires. Obviously you don't want to tap them in the enclosure so simply follow the wire to the harness on the subwoofer enclosure that is a mess of all green wires. From there just throw on a vampire/t crimp onto any set of Green & Green + 'any color' wire. Connect those two wires to the LOC and you are done with the signal.

Now to get a remote turn on lead for your amp... There is a HUGE harness that plugs into the Harmon Kardon amp on the side of the subwoofer enclosure. This should be a fairly skinny and wide harness that I believe is two wires deep by 15 or 20 wires long. Dig through that harness until you find a nice sized 'White' wire. This is your remote turn on lead, this wire only has 12 volts running through it when the vehicle is power on. Throw a vampire/t crimp on that wire and run it right to the amp.

Lastly, power for the amp. I used a JL 1000.1 (1000 watt) amp and was back and fourth on running 0/1 gauge wire to the front of the car. I decided with the nice and handy rear fuse box (passenger side in the trunk) so close, to simply tap a new 4 gauge line there. To do this, simply unscrew the gold nut holding the 'Red' 4ga factory power line on, slide your ring terminal with your new 4ga wire that is connected to the amp, and put the gold nut right back on. And for the ground, there is a handy bolt in the spare tire well, towards the front of the truck on the driver's side. There is already a factory ground here but I just threw a ring terminal on my ground wire and put it right onto the bolt. DONE!

Okay - I know - this would be WAY better with pictures. I will take some tomorrow and polish this up, I just wanted to get the bulk of the writing out of the way.

Cheat Sheet: Signal Wire's --> Any 'Green' & 'Green/Color' pair on the harness connected to the Harmon Kardon Factory Subwoofer Enclosure (Driver's Side Trunk)
Remote Turn-on --> The 'White' wire in the long and narrow harness connected to the factory Harmon Kardon Amp (Driver's Side Trunk)
Amp Power --> Add a 4ga wire to the gold nut in the Rear Fuse Box (Passenger Side Trunk)
Ground --> Nut holding on a factory ring terminal ground, Driver's Side towards the front of the SPARE TIRE WELL.


All for now,

Mike
 
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great diy, some people in the sport forum would benefit from reading this as well. Great choice on the w7 and 1000.1, I have the same set up. I am curious to hear your opinions on the setup. I was considering the HO box but went with a simple ported setup. I always wondering how the ho box w/ a w7 would sound in an suv...
 

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Just check the fusing on that factory 4ga power wire up by the battery. Sometimes factory power wires aren't fused. Just for safety's sake, if it doesn't have one then put one in. The smell of cooked human is difficult to get out of your upholstery.
 

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rogan said:
Just check the fusing on that factory 4ga power wire up by the battery. Sometimes factory power wires aren't fused. Just for safety's sake, if it doesn't have one then put one in. The smell of cooked human is difficult to get out of your upholstery.
Yes definitely put a fuse on the amp power wire! I totally forgot that part, I put it under the bin on the passenger side - totally out of sight.


-Mike
 

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2006 L322 Bonatti Grey | 2009 L322 SC Alaska White | 2016 L405 ATB Santorini Black
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Yes definitely put a fuse on the amp power wire! I totally forgot that part, I put it under the bin on the passenger side - totally out of sight.


-Mike
{NEWBIE} Are you recommending a fuse on both factory and amp power wire or just the amp? Thanks!
 

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Hey guys, my 03 HSE doesn't have the subwoofer option i think, is the wiring harness the same regardless, can i still use this d.i.y to add a aftermarket amp and sub, any info would be sensational.
Cheers!
 

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Hey everyone, just wanted to chime in on this topic for people trying to upgrade their Harmon Kardon DSP logic 7 system. I've done a tone of research on this topic and have finally reached an acceptable and exceptional level of high, mid, and low range using stock head unit and amps and stock wiring. I first thought about replacing the head unit. I soon discovered this would not be practical without rewiring the entire stereo system and then some. Not my first preference to do so much work. Second was to just replace the amp and go with the line converter as everyone recommended. However, this just improves your watt output capacity for bigger speakers. Plus the added work of still having to rewire all speakers. Not a quick task considering there are 13 in my 2003 range rover l322. So I started with replacing the door speakers including the tweeters. I upgraded all of them like for likes with fosgate punch. Tested with the stock amp and it sounded okay but at mid to high volumes the speakers where clipping and sounding muddled no matter how much eq adjustment I did, so I being an old school audio engineer, I decided to install some inline bass caps. I install high frequency caps that filter out signal under 8k for the tweeters and 2.5k caps on the 2.5" mids since the stock signal processor was not doing the job. I know it's long winded, but I wanted to give people the info that you do have an alternative to the lc line converters. Anyway it solved all the muddled sound and rid the popping distortion. Know when I crank it up, my ear drums pierce from the crisp highs. Again this is with the stock amps and stock speaker wiring and fosgate punch speakers from ebay. Amp seems to push the highs higher then my ears can handle just fine and I'm def from subin since I was a teenager.

Now the most ridiculous attempt at a sub box I've ever seen. My opinion coming, but who uses 2 x 6.75 DVC 8ohm subs x 4 channels in plastic ? Germans do I guess lol...

Now for the technical specs. The amp is technically a 4 channel output for the low pass 8ohm stable. These channels maybe produce somewhere around 75w rms 150max. It's hard to find documentation on the exact specs. Anyway, I know for a fact each lowpass channel is rated at 8ohms. So before I begin, I successfully have the 2 x 6.75 and an additional 15" VM audio ecw150 in a band pass box. Slams the neighborhood on high without distortion with the stock amp and wiring lmao...
Running amp at 4 channel 4ohm stable 3 subs.

How to wire this amp to work at 4ohm stable.
- first important suggestion to dynamat the hell out of the pump well, sides panels, and anything else you hear rattling when testing or you will not be able to hear the bass accuracy. This is better and fastest to do first since you are removing panels anyway at this point.
- Replace those 2 x 6.75 subs with a pair of kicker 6.75 DVC 2ohm. This is important that you get the 2ohm model. The 4ohms will not work and can not be achieved because the amp is not bridgeable. You would have to get that size in a SVC 4ohm and install 2 of them. But I could not find that spec in that size so moving on...
- now this amp is not bridgeable so do not try crossing or combining channels. Keep them completely seperate.
- Use 2 channels, 1 for each of the 6.75 DVC. Link the positive to the negative terminal and as a result you are putting a 4ohm load on those 2 channels stable. You will know you did it wrong if the new speakers sound blown when you turn it up. Trust they should not recheck your wiring to ensure those channels run at 4ohm load on the amp. 2ohm DVC ran seriesed is 2+2=4ohm load. Enough now that should be good for stock box. I sealed it around the speakers and just used heavy duty corse threads screws to tap the box.
- now the 15" subwoofer and ported box.
- I purchased this to be a 4ohm DVC 2000w rms comp sub. Super over kill but super cheap on eBay to lol.
I used the other 2 low pass channels to just simplely feed each 4ohm coil on the sub.
- result is hard pounding and deep frequency bass all out of stock head unit, stock dsp logic 7amp, and completely stock wiring without the use of any line converter.
- now if you want to go insane with the bass at that point you would just need to simply pull those 2 low pass channels to the 15" to your lc2 because you will only need 1 low pass channel and install a wire kit and a competition amp for the 15" and find out what a 1000w sounds like.
Boooom...
 

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Hi GB1083, did you manage to find the full spec of the stock speakers?

My L322 had the bog-standard setup without DSP etc. but no subwoofer.
I got a stock dual-cone sub from the breakers and intend to connect it indirectly to my Dynavin head unit. Problem I'm having is deciding just what spec/power amp to get because I don't know the speaker rating. What I do know is that each speaker is DVC, and the sticker on each magnet states 8/8ohm so I guess that's 8ohm per coil. FWIW BMW report frequency response as 30Hz-6KHz but that doesn't help in the sums.
I have battered google to death looking for more info on the cones but just can't find any more info.
The part number is 65136904240.
 
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