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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I own a 4.6 HSE from 1996, or 97, the previous owner converted it to coil springs, and neglected it quite a bit.

Next pay I have planned to buy everything I need to put it back on air bags.

I did do a bit of research, but I just want to make sure I didn't overlook something..

Airbags and height sensor are no longer on the car, I think the other stuff is still there.

I need to buy;
- height sensors
- airbags
- clips to secure rear air bags
- seal kits for valve block and compressor
- air dryer
- EAS valve block exhaust silencer

The air lines look like they're still ok, I need to connect a plug in the dash (the ride height selector switch), and take out the EAS override at the BECM, put a relay back in.

I also read that the EAS needs to be calibrated. (I have a Nanocom)

Did I miss anything?

Thanks :)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys.

Is there a how to regarding calibration?

I did read about it, and using calibration blocks, but not sure how to actually do it..

Thursday I ordered all the parts I think I need, can't wait to see how EAS drives in comparison with coils...
The P38 is in dire need of new shocks too, ordered them too.

Keep you informed.
 

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As you've got a Nanocom it's simple enough to calibrate. Fit the blocks, read off the actual heights for each corner and write those into the ECU. Change the blocks for a different height and do the same until you've written all heights.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #6
That simple?

So you write the measurements yourself?

Another question,a car usually looks better with the front slightly pointing down, not much, just a tad. (as long as the back is not hanging down)

Is this a possibilty to calibrate it like this, or is this a big no no?
 

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Make up a set of blocks to the lengths shown in the thread I linked to (http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/73321-eas-calibration-blocks.html). Jack the car up, fit the High profile blocks in the bumpstops and lower the car so it is sitting on the blocks. Use your Nanocom to read the actual heights shown from each height sensor and save these numbers into the ECU for High Profile. Jack the car again, remove the High profile blocks and fit the Standard profile blocks, read the actual heights and save these. Do the same with the low and access profile blocks and the job is done. If you want it to sit slightly lower at the front, reduce the numbers you store for the front sensors by 1 or 2. Some cars look better with the front down but if anything I think a P38 looks better with the front slightly higher if anything. Gives it that, if you get in my way I'll just drive over you, look.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Following this thread. Let us know how it turns out.
 

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Another question,a car usually looks better with the front slightly pointing down, not much, just a tad. (as long as the back is not hanging down)
The calibration blocks are slightly different lengths for front and rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've got the airsuspension on...

No leaks by the looks of it, although, I hoped that the airsuspension was a bit more comfortable, it defenitly drives better then coils, but I expected the airsuspension to be as comfortable as the hydropneumatic suspension from Citroen..

I did an attempt to calibrate the EAS yesterday, but it looks like the normal drive height has a bit of an own life.. the other settings look alright.

I do have a few questions still;

- do you have to callibrate in a certain sequence? like, when to turn on the nanocom, that kind of stuff.
- when I drive over 80km/h it goes into highway mode, when I press the button next to the height selector swith, and I slow down and stop, should it stay in highway mode?
- looks like my rangie is adjusting the height quite often in between standing still and driving, is this normal?
- am I correct that the system starts working properly when you take er for a drive?

A lot to learn again... fun as long as you see progress. ;?

Thanks
 

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The ride will also depend on the shocks you have fitted. The original Boge were matched to the characteristics of the air springs, other makes are usually stiffer so will affect the ride.

Sequence isn't important but writing the heights may be. Best to set it at one height, read the heights, write them then change the blocks and move on to the next height.

The switch next to the rocker is an inhibit switch so it should stay at either normal or highway height when that is pressed in. I use the inhibit switch when towing to keep the car at highway height as that levels up my trailer and it will stay at that height permanently.

Not sure what you mean by adjusting between standing still and driving but if it is parked on a slope it will adjust when parked. It will adjust when you close the doors after getting out of it to level it off after the weight of the driver and passengers has been removed. If it constantly adjusts when parked with the engine running, that could be because the numbers you have entered are out of limits. Although the numbers at each height will be fairly close, it is unlikely that they will be exactly the same but if they are wildly different it may constantly try to settle at those heights and get itself confused.

When driving it will set itself at the correct height for the speed. It won't try to correct for changes in height due to bumps, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I know about the shocks, I ordered them at the same time as the air bags, I ordered Boge, got 1 Boge and 3 different other brands...

The car raised too much when I just had the EAS going, now it seems to be alright, althoug sometimes when I finished work and get to the car she's in high setting...
She drops straight away when I fire her up.
Looks like it needs to be broken in or so.

Also, one morning I got a fault message, height sensor data not valid, when I look in the Nanocom / settings, the target height went by itself to 123, happend a few times, so I guess something is not right..

Other question, when I'm busy with nanocom with the suspension, is it normal I get fault messages in the display in the dash? Also height sensor data not valid.
 

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Yes, a soon as the Nano connects to the EAS ECU it does come up with the 35 mph warning on the dash. Maybe you have a bad connection to one of the height sensors, does the stored fault codes tell you which one? It shouldn't decide to sit at high, it will normally stay at whatever height it was at when you parked it. Some people have swapped the timer relay for a standard 4 pin relay and found that this can sometimes cause the car to default to high. This may have something to do with the height it was at when the relay was changed. Maybe disconnecting and reconnecting the ECU when it is in normal height will reset it?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update;

Meanwhile I have new Boge shocks and new tires.
The new tires solved the tracking problem and increased comfort a bit.

She drives like dream! Very happy with it

The EAS seems to be alright now..

RR lv.JPG
 
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