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Discussion Starter #22
macattack23 said:
Umbertob,
You could just simply replace the sub if you wanted to right? I might be confused this is getting to technical for me.
Is the last picture of the factory sub or is it the pioneer?
Yes you can replace the sub, but if the subs nominal power is 250 watts (as is this pioneer)... then its not healthy for the amp to only power it with 50 watts (which is what the factory amp does). It may sound slightly better, but you risk speaker damage over long usage. It will sound much better when it is amplified with 250+ watts. Sorry, I know this was specificly directed to you umbertob ;)

Last photo is the factory speaker.
 

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macattack23 said:
Umbertob,

You could just simply replace the sub if you wanted to right? I might be confused this is getting to technical for me
Yes you could, but as mentioned above the improvement would likely be minimal considering the feeble wattage currently supplied by the factory amp to the stock sub. You really need to juice up that sub line to get the full benefit of a better speaker. You can always get the parts and bring them to your nearest car stereo shop for installation. It's probably child's play for them.
 

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You'd need a mono amplifier (you only need to amplify the sub line) able to drive the sub with enough power, around 250W or so should do it... The JLs are good but expensive, Pioneer makes cheaper ones but still figure $200 or so. Then you need the AudioControl converter (to take the output from the subwoofer wires and convert it to a line/RCA out that you will feed to your new amplifier), another $120.
 

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Cool project, thanks for the pics. Definitely keep us posted. I think a bunch of us would drop 5 bills to be able to play some NWA the way it was intended.
Straight outta Compton bitches!
8)
 

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you're an absolute gem ryan! hope i haven't jumped the gun as i see there hasn't been an update over the past few days! no problems right?!

i am not so daring as to attempt the mod myself but i did manage to find a local car audio store today that will do the whole job (amp/sub/loc/labor/misc) for $398. it will be finished wed so i'll let everyone know how much of an improvement it is within the next few days.

on a quick note...i'm a new owner myself and just wanted to point out this forum has been an absolutely brilliant resource concerning the "do's and don'ts" ! excellent stuff, keep it up gents!
 

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Welcome MasonSensation! Just to be sure, that charge by the car audio store you mention is for labor only, you are still buying and supplying them with the necessary parts (sub/amp/converter), yes? Otherwise, I sure hope that store is "local" to me, too... :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #33
MasonSensation said:
you're an absolute gem ryan! hope i haven't jumped the gun as i see there hasn't been an update over the past few days! no problems right?!

i am not so daring as to attempt the mod myself but i did manage to find a local car audio store today that will do the whole job (amp/sub/loc/labor/misc) for $398. it will be finished wed so i'll let everyone know how much of an improvement it is within the next few days.

on a quick note...i'm a new owner myself and just wanted to point out this forum has been an absolutely brilliant resource concerning the "do's and don'ts" ! excellent stuff, keep it up gents!
Welcome Mason. Looks like you may have it done before me :D
I got the subwoofer in today, it looks cool. Still waiting on the LC6,
and the amp. I went with this amp by the way:
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v ... 95,00.html
I'm curious how it will sound. The only thing that may be a problem is
that the trim actually covers the subwoofer; creating a sort of unported band pass enclosure. I'm going to try to seal off the air space created by
the trim piece the best I can.
Let us know how it turns out and if the installers had any tricky obstacles
with wiring or anything else. Just share it all :)
 

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thanks for the welcome lads!

sorry, should have been a little more specific with the pricing but the $398 does in fact include everything! other audio stores may not be so willing, but i always get them to commit to the price before they start gutting anything out!


pioneer tw-sw2541d $135
rf-p200.2 $130
amp kit & loc (misc) $56.95
labor $60!

...and yes, i would be skeptical about the low price but i had work done on a c230K about a year ago. they switched out my rear speakers, component set, head unit, and installed a sub without any flaws. given the pain in the a$$ mercedes can be with their audio setup i'm positive they can handle this with relative ease. i will make sure to let you know of any issues should they arise however.

now i am in a lil' old place called martinsville in VA right now visiting the 'rents (probably familiar to any NASCAR fans that may be out there). i actually live a couple hours away in Raleigh, NC but have the liberty of being able to drop the car off for a day while i visit the fam.

so unfortunately i'm guessing this in not exactly local to anyone on the board but at the least it should be a useful reference if anyone else chooses to follow suit. so fingers crossed all will run smooth and i'll give another update prob on thurs.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
MasonSensation said:
thanks for the welcome lads! always get them to commit to the price before they start gutting anything out!
Speaking of gutting... they aren't going to know how to get that tailgate
trim off for the subwoofer unless they have the land rover removal
instructions. More than likely (like most audio shops) they are just going
to "figure it out" which may lead to problems. The glass liftgate has to be
opened WHILE the main liftgate is opened. To do this... you have to lock
the main liftgate latch MANUALLY by pushing the latch over with your hand.
Then you will be able to open the glass latch, but be careful because the
glass hatch will rise all the way up (this really takes two people)... one
to hold the hatch so it doesn't go all the way up and damage the roof
spoiler or the glass itself, and one other person to perform the trim
removal.

pioneer tw-sw2541d $135
rf-p200.2 $130
amp kit & loc (misc) $56.95
labor $60!
Is the "loc" the audiocontrol? That's a real cheap price. I would make
sure it isn't just a regular line converter cause it has to be able to handle
the 50watts from the factory Harman Kardon amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I just realized that the amplifier I ordered has speaker inputs.
So I may be able to just connect the subwoofer wire from the
harman amp into the new amp, then out to the sub without
the use of a line out converter.
 

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I was gonna tell you about that option but you seemed pretty convinced on the line converter. That will work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
you think this will work good? Are you sure you can run the sub wires
from the factory amp to the new amp? I know its ok from the radio,
but i've never done it from a factory amp.
 

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All it will be doing is amplifying the sub signal. It will be supplying more volts which you can adjust by matching the gains. So really just a stronger signal. However it will not be as clean a signal as coming straight from the radio but i dont think you can do anything about that. On the factory amp you can pull the facotry input plug and strip back the wires, to try and find the signal for the sub. Probelm is that i dont know how the signal comes into the factory amp. I dont think its like a regular stereo with 4 channels going into an amp. I think it may be just a straight signal that the stock amplifier separates to the speakers.
Anyways what i wanted to say is that i bet youll get the same result from using the speaker inputs on the amp that you will from the lc6. A sub signal and those low frequencies are not clear anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
well, we'll see because it looks like I'll get to test them both out as I
already purchased the LC6 :) It should sound good either way, the LC6
provides a few more adjustment features. The amp is 1,000w max (600
i'll be using), so surely that will make up for any lost signal :D
 
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